Littell's Living Age — Volume 1…
“ The French have a way of serving up their dishes which is as extraordinary as the rest. What should we think of whitings in turbans—smelts in dice boxes—a skate buckled to capers—gooseberries in their shifts, and potatoes in their shirts?—Should we not think any Englishman very filthy whose cook should send up cutlets in hair-papers—truffles in ashes—and squirted seed-cakes?—and whose dinner-hell should announce to us what they call a ding-dong in a daub? ”
