Herschel C. Parker

“ During this trip, from Abbot pass and the summit of Lefroy, we gained splendid views of the grim cliffs and lofty summit of the great "Chieftain." I think some of the party must have felt, even at this time, a strong desire to conquer so fine a peak. ”

“ We were now on the arete but a very short distance from the summit. Only one more difficulty confronted us: a narrow "gabel," or break in the arête, only a few feet in width, it is true, but with a nearly sheer descent of thousands of feet on either side. This gabel must be crossed to reach the summit. The arete was far too narrow to allow a jump being made with safety; so, slowly and carefully, while firmly grasping the rock on one side. Christian thrust his feet forward until they
touched the other and his body bridged the chasm ”

“ At this point further progress was barred by a wall of vertical cliffs. Directly in our path this rocky battlement was broken by a narrow icy couloir and a much narrower chimney filled with ice. After inspecting the couloir. Christian decided that the chimney would be the safer means of ascent, and so, after seeing that Hans and I were in as secure positions as the circumstances would permit, and with directions not to move from our places close against the rock, he disappeared around an angle and commenced the perilous climb. ”