John D. Patterson

“ From this point we kept to the arete, and had some interesting rock work because of the loose snow, which made it impossible often to ascertain the condition of the rocks in which we were seeking to establish hand and foot-holds. At eleven o'clock, upon leaving a small table, from which we enjoyed extended views to the north-east and south-west, we found a col lying between it and the mass of the mountain crowned by the summit—our goal,—and owing to the treacherous condition of the snow, the very crest of this col, sharp as it was, had to be followed. ”

“ A good deal of snow was encountered in the pass, and the ponies which had not been halted for a midday feed and rest, gave evidence that the work was telling on them. Once well over the summit, however, the trail was better; the two miles to Mr. Whymper's former camping ground was quickly negotiated, and free of their packs, the tired animals were soon quietly feeding in the abundant grasses at the foot of the slide opposite the camp. ”

“ From this point the ascent was more rapid, and no further difficulty was experienced until we arrived at the edge of a snow-field leading to a saddle about 150 feet below the summit. From the earnest conversation of the guides, held in their own language, which I did not understand, it was evident they feared that the snow might avalanche if an attempt were made to cross it. ”