“ If your st gauge is LESS sts to 1 inch than that given in the directions, try the next size smaller needle and again check your gauge. The IMPORTANT THING to remember is that the size needle used does not matter as long as your stitch gauge is correct.
GARTER STITCH: Knit every row. It will take 2 rows to make 1 ridge.
STOCKINETTE STITCH: K 1 row, P 1 row alternately when working on straight needles. When working round and round on a circular needle or double point needles, knit every round. ”

“ Work 1 d c in each of 2 sts, 1 d c in centre st, ch 2, turn—4 sts. Work 2 rows even in d c. Break off yarn. Join yarn in centre st of first row of neckband, ch 2, work 1 d c in each st to end of row, ch 2, turn. Work 2 rows even in d c. Row 4: Work 1 d c in each of 2 sts, y o, draw up a loop in next st, y o and draw up a loop in first st of other side, * y o and draw through all loops on hook, 1 d c in each st to end of row, ch 2, turn. ”

“ On all other rows, K over the K sts and P over the P sts.
TO SLIP A STITCH: Whenever the directions specify a sl st, always insert the right hand needle in the st to be slipped as if to P, unless otherwise indicated.
MARKERS: When work specifies the use of a marker, use a small round paper clip for this purpose. In working, always slip this marker from one needle to the other.
JOINING YARN: If possible always join a new ball of yarn at the beginning of a row. When it is necessary to join the yarn while working across a row, leave an end about 4 inches long ”