by John Marshall

“ Finding a sufficiency of goods could not be provided at Moose Deer Island, I determined to proceed to the Athabasca Lake, and ascertain the inclinations of the gentlemen there. With this view I communicated my intentions to both parties; but could only get dogs enough from the North-West Company to carry the necessary provisions for the journey. Indeed, Mr. Smith informed me plainly, he was of opinion that nothing could be spared at Fort Chipeywan; that goods had never been transported so long a journey in the winter season, and that the same dogs could not possibly go and return. ”

“ A considerable quantity of snow fell during the night. The surrounding country was extremely rugged; the hills divided hy deep ravines, and the valleys covered with broken masses of rocks and stones: yet the deer fly (as it were) over these impediments with apparent ease, seldom making a false step, and springing from crag to crag with all the safety of the mountain goat. After passing Reindeer Lake (where the ice was so thin as to bend at every step for nine miles) , we halted, perfectly satisfied with our escape from sinking into the water. ”

“ The snow was so deep that the dogs were obliged to stop every ten minutes to rest themselves; and the cold so excessive, that both the men were badly frozen on both sides of the face and chin. At length, having come to a long meadow, which the dogs could not cross that night, we halted in an adjoining wood, and were presently joined by a Canadian who was on his return to the fort, and who treated us with some fresh meat in exchange for pemmican. ”

“ Even the animals have fled from us, as it were by instinct, and many, very many, of the unhappy natives have fallen victims to famine in situations the most revolting to human nature. The fish also, on which I in some measure relied, left us; in places which we were told never before failed we have not caught a fish; and during the whole season scarcely a living creature has been seen, except on one occasion a raven, which, in wheeling over the house, startled me with his croak, so uniform was the silence around us. ”

“ Thus equipped, we set off before the wind (a favorable circumstance on a lake) , and went on very well until noon; when the ice being driven up in ridges, in such a manner as to obstruct us very much, I was released; and I confess not unwillingly, though I had to walk the remainder of the day. There are large openings in many parts where the ice had separated, and in attempting to cross one of them the dogs fell into the water, and were saved with difficulty. The poor animals suffered dreadfully from the cold, and narrowly escaped being frozen to death. ”

“ Our provisions were now almost expended. The weather was cloudy, with snow.
“On the 27th, we crossed two lakes, and performed a circuitous route, frequently crossing high hills to avoid those lakes which were not frozen. During the day one of the women made a hole through the ice, and caught a fine pike, which she gave to us: the Indians would not partake of it, from the idea (as we afterwards learnt) , that we should not have sufficient for ourselves:– ‘We are accustomed to such privations,’ said they, ‘but you are not.’ In the evening we halted near Rocky Lake. ”

“ We returned exactly by the same route, suffering no other inconvenience but that arising from the chafing of the snow shoes, and bad weather. Some Indians, whom we met on the banks of the Little Buffalo River, were rather surprised at seeing us; for they had heard that we were on an island which was surrounded by Esquimaux. The dogs were almost worn out, and their feet raw, when, on February the 20th, we arrived at Moose-deer Island, with our goods all in good order. Towards the end of the month, two of our men arrived with letters from Lieutenant Franklin, containing some fresh demands ”

“ The weather was so cold that we were compelled to run to prevent ourselves from freezing; our route lay across some large meadows, which appeared to abound in animals, though the Indians around Slave Lake are in a state of great want. ”

“ I made a demand from both parties for supplies, such as ammunition, gun-flints, axes, files, clothing, tobacco, and spirits. I stated to them our extreme necessity, and that without their assistance the expedition must be arrested in its progress. The answer from the north west gentlemen was satisfactory enough; but on the Hudson’s Bay side I was told, ‘that any further assistance this season entirely depended on the arrival of supplies, expected in a few weeks hence from a distant establishment.’ I remained at Fort Chipewyan five weeks, during which time some laden sledges did arrive ”

“ Captain Franklin was well aware of the sympathy excited in the British public by the sufferings of those engaged in the former overland expedition, and of the humane repugnance of Government to expose others to a like fate ”

“ During the day one of the hunters broke through the ice, but was soon extricated; when it became dark, we halted near the Bow String Portage, greatly disappointed at not having reached the lake. The weather was cloudy, accompanied with thick mist and snow. The Indians expected to have found here a bear in its den, and to have made a hearty meal of its flesh ”

“ I quitted Fort Providence, being accompanied by Mr. Wentzel, Beauparlant, and two other Canadians, provided with dogs and sledges. We proceeded along the borders of the lake, occasionally crossing deep bays, and at dusk encamped at the Gros Cap, having proceeded a distance of twenty-five miles.
“December 8, – We set out on the lake with an excessively cold N.W. wind, and were frequently interrupted by large pieces of ice which had been thrown up by the violence of the waves during the progress of congelation, and at dusk we encamped on the Rein-Deer Islands. ”

“ Sir,– In reflecting on the recent voyages of discovery to the Arctic regions, which have been prosecuted with so much zeal and ability by the able officers who have commanded them, one cannot but regret that the portion of the American coast comprehended between Repulse Bay and Point Turnagain, should still remain unexplored while there exists any probability of finally completing so desirable an object.
“To effect this, I would propose that a small vessel, properly fitted out with boats, and supplied with provisions for two years, should proceed to Repulse Bay ”

“ We had much difficulty in proceeding, owing to the poor dogs being quite worn out, and their feet perfectly raw. We endeavoured to tie shoes on them, to afford them some little relief; but they continually came off when amongst deep snow, so that it occupied one person entirely to look after them. In this state they were hardly of any use amongst the steep ascents of the portages, when we were obliged to drag the sledges ourselves. ”

“ Once we had to climb a towering and almost perpendicular rock, which not only detained us, but was the cause of great anxiety for the safety of the women, who being heavily laden with furs, and one of them with a child on her back, could not exert themselves with the activity which such a task required. ”

“ The following is a copy of his official report to Captain Franklin on rejoining him, “after an absence of nearly five months, during which time he had travelled 1104 miles, on snow-shoes, and had no other covering at night, in the woods, than a blanket and deer-skin, with the thermometer frequently at –40°, and once at –57°; and sometimes passing two or three days without tasting food.”
“On quitting Fort Enterprise, with Mr. Wentzel and two Canadians, accompanied by two hunters and their wives, our route lay across the barren hills. ”

“ Dr. John Richardson, offered his services as naturalist and surgeon, and also volunteered to undertake the survey of the coast to the eastward, while his commander should be occupied in endeavouring to reach Icy Cape. Lieutenant Bushnan, who had served under Captains Ross and Parry, was likewise appointed to accompany Captain Franklin, as assistant-surveyor; but, long before the party was to leave England, he had to lament the premature death of that excellent young officer, who was eminently qualified for the service, by his skill in astronomical observations, surveying, and drawing. ”

“ Ha! ha! ha! uttered vociferously, and with great distortion of countenance, and particular attitude of body, the feathers being always kept in a tremulous motion. The ensuing day I made the chief acquainted with the object of our mission, and recommended him to keep at peace with his neighbouring tribes, and to conduct himself with attention and friendship towards the whites. ”

“ Then in the following season, the party intended to coast as far as Point Turnagain, being provided with sledges, might proceed with the remainder of what was necessary for the voyage, and crossing to the boats, start on the first opening of the water. For such a service, the boats should be about twenty-four feet long, with a good beam and a flat floor, so as to draw little water ”

“ As the commencement of the new year is the rejoicing season of the Canadians, when they are generally intoxicated a few days, I postponed making any demand till this time of festivity should cease; but on the same day I went over to the Hudson’s Bay Fort, and delivered Lieutenant Franklin’s letter to Mr. ”

“ The last letter written by Commander Back, which has yet reached England, is dated “Fort Reliance, April 29th, 1834.” He and his party were then all well. It is very satisfactory to know, from despatches received by the committee of the Hudson’s Bay Company, that supplies sufficient to support the expedition during the present winter were timely forwarded to him.
↑ See Vol. II. Part I. p. 271 et seq. ↑ See Vol. II. Part II. p. 599 et seq. ↑ See Vol. III. Part I. pp. 5–50. ”