Fanny Charlotte Anne Boothby

“ The valley in all its loveliness lay around us, bright with the beautiful light, the sound of rushing waters falling on the ear: every leaf and tiny blade of grass glittering with the abundant dew that is so grateful to the thirsty vegetation in these hot countries, acacia trees filling the whole air with their perfume, while now and then a glimpse of the sea completed the matchless charm of the scene! ”

“ But we have lingered long enough at this beautiful spot, and depart, however loth to leave so much loveliness. We made our exit in the same way in which we had entered; and as another proof of the wonderful brilliancy of colouring in the grotto, when we were again in the larger boat we could scarcely believe that we were on the same blue sea we had so recently left, though the sun was shining as gloriously, and the heavens were as cloudless. To our eyes the sea seemed to have lost every tinge of blue. ”

“ As the road winds along the shore from Castellamare to Sorrento, elevated as it is above it, the most enchanting views of the sea succeed each other, while the whole coast to the right seemed like a succession of the most luxuriant gardens. The great affluence of beauty, so to speak, almost overpowers one. ”

“ Towards the south of the island are lofty portals of rock, which rear themselves, in solitary grandeur, out of the sea. After rowing along the shores sufficiently to see the general aspect of the island, we approached that side where is situated the entrance to the far-famed grotto or cave, called by the country-people the Witches’ Cave. Before entering, it may be well to say something respecting its discovery, as for many centuries it was entirely unknown, at least to travellers, though strange traditions respecting it existed amongst the inhabitants from a very remote date. ”

“ Of our journey back to Sorrento it is needless to speak; we returned along the coast instead of going by land.
Wishing, I suppose, to crowd as much beauty into our day as was possible, we took an evening stroll to explore some of the beauties of Sorrento. This walk shows all the finest points of view, and it does not occupy more than two hours—at least, a good walker would do it in that time; but the ascent is very steep, and lasts for at least half the way. But who has time to think of fatigue or difficulty when every step brings out some fresh beauty. ”

“ The Tower of Amalfi is built on so steep a rock that the houses seem piled one on the other; the streets are narrow passages between tall houses; lanes with high walls of rock on either side intersect the streets; steps up, steps down, wonderful labyrinths of curious passages: such is the interior of the town. In most places lamps were burning; had it not been so, it would have been quite dark in the interior parts of the town.
We ascended to a small picturesque tower, from whence is to be seen the lovely bays of Majori and Minori ”

“ The arbutus, the most ornamental of all that class of flowering shrubs, grows in profusion all along the coast. The pale silvery green of the olive shows well when mixed with the richer tints of other foliage; and everywhere the eye rests on a profusion of luxuriant vegetation that language would wholly fail to do justice to. It is indeed a land richly endowed by Nature; for the smallest possible amount of cultivation causes the teeming earth to put forth her abundance. ”

“ With women of that country it is gone while they are still in early youth, and they turn all at once into old women, and finally into something so hideous and repulsive that they resemble nothing but witches. ”

“ Women, with red cloaks turned over their heads, one or two babies slung in baskets in front of them, while their husbands led the donkeys on which they were seated; then there were peasant girls in the picturesque dress of the Sorrentines, their baskets piled up with a luxuriant mass of fruit and flowers, arranged with a degree of natural taste that made each basket a picture. ”

“ The boatmen entertained us with many a curious legend respecting the enchanted cave. Some of the older inhabitants of the island still believe in the evil influence that a visit to the cave exercises over the ill-fated person who is so rash as to penetrate into the witches’ domain. There is a very curious fish to be found in the beautiful silvery water, very small, and with an odd, square-shaped head ”

“ In the year 1831, two young Germans, named Pries and Kopisch, travelling in Italy, spent some days in the islaud of Capri, and heard rumours of the Witches’ Cave, of which they, after great difficulty, discovered the entrance and persisted in visiting it, in spite of the strong prejudices of the boatmen, who firmly believed that, whoever entered it, would be swallowed up in a flaming caldron. Nothing could induce the men to go one step further than the entrance ”

“ My pretty friend, Caterina, told me that she cultivated their patch of ground; got in the crop of Indian corn; took care of the goats, and of the beautiful poultry we saw pecking about round the tower; dressed the vines, and so on; while her husband spent the greater part of his time at Majori, where he had a boat, which, in summer, was a source of profit to him, being constantly used by artists frequenting the neighbourhood for the sake of the beautiful scenery with which it abounds.
After a two hours’ rest, we remounted our donkeys and began the descent of the mountain ”

“ The boatmen told us we were most fortunate in our day; for if there is the slightest roughness on the sea, or even a swell, the entrance to the grotto is very difficult; in some cases adventurous travellers have led themselves and their guides into no inconsiderable danger by persisting in making the attempt. ”

“ At such a moment one felt what it was to enjoy life with that degree of intensity that makes mere existence so joyous to the dwellers in southern climes. The greater part of our way lay through orange and lemon groves. ”

“ They have to descend to Nocera, or more frequently to Majori, the village on the other side of the mountain, for all the small commodities they require; and, in winter, the path is almost impassable, owing to the frequent torrents which, rushing down from the heights, wholly obliterate every trace of pathway. ”