James Greenwood, Low-Life Deeps — Chapter 18: London's Bane (1881)
“ The beer-drinking public likes its liquor with a "body." It insists on an article that is "full in the mouth" - an article that, when swallowed, comforts the stomach as food comforts it. What can the beer-seller do? He has no fiendish desire to poison his fellow-creatures. If they would put up with the naked imposture it would be the same thing to him, and would save him a world of trouble; but since they insist on the disguise, all that he can do is to smother his conscience, and make it as pleasant tasting as possible. All this sounded terribly ominous for my seven pints. ”
