Mme. Goubaud

“ For a raised leaf work up the stem with seven pairs of bobbins, turn the pillow round and work back with nine or ten pairs according to the width of leaf, pins set up on one side, sewings taken up on the stem. ”

“ Ladies can easily prick them from the illustration. To prick from lace itself it is necessary to keep the lace in proper position and to place a pin in every pinhole along the outlines, to mark any crossed threads by a pinhole, and to show where lerd or lead-works occur by the same means. ”

“ It presents exactly the appearance required, as it looks like moss-grown wood; it is light, and easily carried by ladies, as easily held in position by a nail; it is porous, and not only absorbs, but retains moisture—a quality invaluable to fern-growers. ”

“ Appliqué is the term given to this mode of joining Honiton sprigs. The ground is composed of Brussels net laid over the pattern prepared as above stated. Every outline of the lace is carefully sewn to the Brussels net; the net is afterwards cut away as shown in illustration No. 29.
It is advisable that ladies should receive one or two lessons in lace-making of Mrs. Mitchell, who is a quick and clever teacher, and whose charges are extremely moderate. Some ladies very soon master every class of lace work, but a lesson will frequently prevent much loss of time and patience.
[Pg 53]
No. ”

“ Jay keeps a nice assortment of plain goods, all hand-sewn, made of the best materials, in good style, but untrimmed, or very plainly trimmed. Ladies may confidently order their sets of under-linen, feeling sure that the needlework could not be neater or stronger even if made at home under their immediate care and supervision. ”

“ Half stitch is used largely for the lighter parts of Honiton lace, and is shown mixed in the rose, page 43.
Devonshire Turn or Wheel
To wind the threads on the bobbins a turn or wheel is used. No. 10 shows a Devonshire turn. The thread or cotton is always wound from right to left, and a loop is made to prevent the bobbin from unwinding. On gentle pressure the thread unwinds, but will hang in place perfectly if the loop is made properly. All the bobbins should be kept at the same length from the pillow to which they are attached.
[Pg 19]
No. ”

“ Great accuracy is necessary for this work, as all the beauty of the lace depends on the correctness of the prickings.
Position in Working Pillow Lace.
Devonshire workers usually sit on low chairs with their feet on the back rail of another chair, resting their pillow against the back of the chair. Ladies will find that they can work most comfortably seated on an ordinary chair with their feet on a footstool, and resting the pillow against a table.
Nos. 6 and 7.—Passements.
These are the passements for two useful lace sprays.
[Pg 15]
No. ”

“ When the whole art and mystery of whole and half stitch are acquired so as to be executed with mechanical ease, the learner is naturally anxious to make some use of her work, and to form a pattern. The trefoil design, No. ”

“ These terms are used to express the mode of finishing off any part of a sprig or design. To effect this:—Take up two leaders and tie them in a plain knot, lay them out right and left, throw all the bobbins in between them again, tie in a plain knot, and either cut off the bobbins or work on as directed.
No. 14.—One Rose Border.
No. 14. one-rose border, is a succession of rose sprigs worked with seven pairs of bobbins without cotton, is begun at the stem. For one-rose sprig, see No. 20.
[Pg 25]
No. ”

“ This stitch is used for most of the Honiton patterns, and the learner will observe that it is the same as braid work, p. 12, only the leaders twist three times instead of twice. No notice is taken of the Mecklenburg thread bobbins: the leaders work over and under these as with the ordinary bobbins.
Nos. 11 and 12.—Cue Borders.
No. 11.—The cue border is worked from stem to stem, with 7 pair. Take up a sewing with pins on either side. 8 or 9 bobbins are used, according to if cottons are worked or not.
No. 12.—Baby cue is worked in the same manner.
[Pg 21]
No. ”