Alfred John Loftus

“ The Pakchan is, however, navigable by steamers from the junction of the Malliwan to Victoria Point. In the dry season, the tide is felt ten miles above Krà, where its rise and fall is eight feet. From Krà, eastward, the country is covered with forests of bamboos and trees, and is very rugged, till the water shed, a small grassy plain, is reached, some eight miles above Krà. The river Krà runs west from this place, and joins the Pakchan at Krà, while the Bankren, a quarter of a mile farther on, flows east-ward, joining the river Tsoompeou at Tasan, and then flows into the Gulf of Siam. ”

“ It is also well known that the whole of the Malay Peninsula is formed of mountain ranges running parallel to each other with detached mountains and hills of high altitude, forming a complete and intricate barrier on both seaboards. ”

“ Elephant Track between Chumpon and Langsuen leads mostly through small jungle with villages and cultivated parts between hills scattered in every direction. Several small streams run to the sea across the track. The largest of these are the Tongkaa, Sawe, and Taako rivers, over which elephants can barely pass without taking off their howdahs in the dry season. The track, except where paddy fields are, is serpentine and undulating, and follows the coast line a few miles off. A branch track also extends from Ban Naa Po to Langsuen. On the whole it may be considered a good track. ”

“ In conclusion, I have pleasure in saying that I have never met with more amiable or competent gentlemen in a survey field before, and on my taking leave of you, I give you my best wishes for your future prosperity and happiness. ”

“ Throughout this day I noted with great care the atmospheric fluctuations, as we expected to leave on the morrow to examine the Krà Route, elephants having arrived from Chumpon for that purpose. Mr. Schlüssel also devoted the entire day to the same duty.
Muong Krà is a good sized village in an open place amongst the hills at the head of the Pakchan river [11] . It appears to be of little importance, as the cultivated parts are limited, and produce only sufficient for the wants of the people. Tin also is scarce in this neighbourhood. ”

“ The road I speak of extends from Singora [1] to Quedah, [2] and is very serpentine and undulating amongst the hills in the interior, where it reaches an elevation of 1,100 to 1,300 feet. It is scarcely worth the name of a road, but it is the best across the Peninsula. The jungle tracks are very narrow, and, whilst running in various directions, are exceedingly tortuous and undulating, sometimes in valleys, and by the slopes of hills, and in some parts over their tops, at elevations from 50 to 800 feet. ”

“ On the summit of this hill, about 400 feet high, a ladder and platform were rigged up a tall tree, and from this elevated position almost a perfect view of the country to the west was attained, mountains and hills of every shape and size, covered with the thickest jungle, were massed together in one unbroken, but varied outline, and nothing in the shape of the sought-for valley could be discerned in any direction. ”

“ At the twenty-second mile from Krà the hills end, and the country becomes a fine open campaign. At the thirtieth mile is the town of Tsoompeon, on the river of that name. The distance from this place to the sea is about twenty-one miles, the rise and fall of the tide being six feet.
Mean Height of Hilly District on the Krà Route.— The highest level of the pass is, as I have stated, ago feet above the level of the sea. The mean level, however, of the hilly district, which is twenty miles in length, is 130 feet. Increase this by thirty feet for the depth of the canal and we have 160 feet. ”

“ The jungle track from Krà to Chumpon is the best, and is of lower elevation than any of the others, but at the some time it possesses the same characteristics, in outline and natural features, as those in other parts of the Malay Peninsula, viz:—it is exceedingly tortuous and uneven. ”

“ My aneroid gave the elevation of this point 110 feet above sea level, which I believe corresponded with Mr. Bourgery's reckoning. Kow Kye is a high, steep, and dangerous pass, with a narrow track round its southern slope, only wide enough for an elephant's foot. Accidents are not unfrequent in the rainy months, when the edge of the track gives way, precipitating man and beast to the bottom of the chasm never more to be heard of. ”

“ Again, supposing all obstacles could be overcome to this point, and the entrance of the canal could be situated at some navigable position north of Melliwan, even then the scheme would be as insurmountable as before, for the intricate mass of lofty mountain chains in this neighbourhood would preclude all possibility of making a direct or indirect cut obliquely from any part of the left bank of the Pakchan river to any point on the jungle track east of Krà Pass. ”

“ We experienced none at Chumpon, although there were unmistakeable signs of a coming change in the western sky; the weather was exceedingly hot at this time. After remaining one night with our friends, we left them to continue their work, while we pushed on to Rehnong, to commence a survey of the entrance to Pakchan river. We met rain on the way, and, of course, the looups had a good swearing from us before we reached Krà, where we had all arrived before to 11 a.m. Here we found a steam launch and boat in waiting for us, belonging to H.S.M.'s gunboat Apollo. ”

“ In addition to all this, it is more than probable that marine insurance companies would raise their premiums in proportion to the extra risks steamers would run in taking the Krà route. Sailing vessels could never attempt this passage if it was opened, for besides the ordinary heavy expenses, they would have to pay for seventy-three miles of towage—the distance in nautical miles from Spiteful rock to Chumpon bay. This at the present rate of low freights would scarcely leave enough to pay wages. It should not be forgotten also that every year produces new and faster steamers. ”

“ Without further preface I shall proceed with my notes.
↑ In 1883, Chulalongkorn was King of Siam; Siam is now known as Thailand (Wikisource contributor note) ↑ See Kra Isthmus. (Wikisource contributor note) ↑ Part of Mueang Chumphon District (Wikisource contributor note) . ”

“ The longest affluents are those of Malliwan, Chah Hoon, and Klong Nam Noi. These streams annually deposit large quantities of sedimentary matter from the neighbouring mounainous country into the main river, blocking it up with obstructions, whilst the residue is swept seaward. The distance from Victoria Point to Krà, is thirty-nine miles ; and from Spiteful Rock to Krà, forty-nine and a half miles by the bends. The river is straight from Victoria Point, and carries its width of two miles a short distance from Leslic Well, twenty-three miles from its mouth. ”

“ Rehnong is an important tin district, situated at the foot of a range of mountains two miles from the coast. It is inhabited by Chinese, of whom there is a goodly number. Shops and roads are on the increase. The British India steamers call here regularly to trade, and, under the excellent administration of the Governor, Kaw Sim Kong, who is a just man in his dealings, and has a small but well organized body of soldiers and police, it bids fair to become a thriving province. ”

“ The elephants of the government official in charge of the Expedition, with his followers, come up in the rear, and complete the procession.
The female elephants are the best to ride on, and the males for carrying luggage. These jolly old wags—for wags they are in their way—move steadily on at the rate of two and a half statute miles per hour. This is the natural pace of the Siamese elephants, and they will keep it up with wonderful precision, for six or eight hours, if they are in healthy condition and fed before starting. ”

“ For the first fifteen miles of its course, the Pakchan is an ordinary mountain torrent, but as it receives the drainage brought down by numerous affluents from the hills which bound its valley, it gradually broadens, tilt at Krà it is 250 feet wide. ”

“ From this point it was intended to branch off across the Peninsula, and follow the route via Kow Kye (a dangerous pass for elephants,) and Chah Hoon to Muong Rehnong [9] , and to make an examination of the valley of the Sawe river on the way, but owing to the unauthorized departure of ten elephants to Chumpon, the course of the Expedition was altered, and it was decided to take the route to Rehnong, via the valley of the Langsuen river, which afterwards. I think, proved to be the best way of economising the already limited time the Expedition had to accomplish its labors in. ”

“ Ban Raat Koot is within a couple of miles of the sea coast, and here we found a steam launch, sent by Kaw Sim Kong, the loyal and energetic Governor of Rehnong, to convey the party to that place, instead of following the tedious and dangerous mountain track connecting the two places. In the course of the evening stellar observations were made for latitude; and the following morning. February 5th, solar observations were taken sketches of mountains and bearing recorded, and aneroid readings noted with considerable care. ”

“ At 10 p.m. the whole members of the Expedition were sleeping like infants.
January 31st. The Expedition awoke right early, and after polishing off our regular draught of that never failing remedy against jungle fever, viz: Eno's fruit salt [10] mixed with lime juice, sugar, and water; and partaking of tea and biscuit, we again started to behold the wonders of another day's journey up this highly wooded and interesting river. Aneroid readings were made at regular intervals, and bearings taken of the bends, as we went along ”

“ The time however was judiciously employed in surveying the bends of the river to the sea, taking solar observations, and determining atmospheric curves, &c. Independent of this, a laborious ascent of an adjacent hill (Kow Taakade,) clothed with dense jungle, was made for the purpose of having a good view of the country in the supposed direction of the Sawe valley. ”

“ Vessels of twenty-two feet draught, with careful pilotage and an efficiently marked channel, could probably reach as far as Klong Kumaonyie, but no further. From this point the river is shoal, full of obstructions, and navigable only for trading boats. ”

“ Alongside of this elephant walks the man whose duty it is to give the names of places, &c., &c. The chronometers are slung to the middle of a light bamboo, fitted with legs at a short distance from each end, and protected from the sun by mats covered with several thicknesses of white cloth. ”