Arnold Wolfensberger

“ A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression. ”

“ The odd numbers of warp-threads cross the even numbers after every pick; hence of two warp-threads one will always go over the first pick and under the second, and the other end under the first and over the second pick. Taffeta cloth, therefore, has the same appearance on both sides, and in cotton and wool weaving this weave is technically—and properly indeed—called the Plain Weave. It has the smallest repeat, 2 warp-threads and 2 picks, and the exchanging of warp and filling is the most frequent possible. The cloth thus produced is firmer and stronger than that obtained with any other weave. ”

“ To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are required, of which each thread floats over two of the other system and interlaces with the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always consecutive, that is it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the right (or to the left if the lines are to run in that direction) . If warp and filling have the same texture, that is the same number of threads in a given space, the twill lines will form an angle of 45° ”

“ The calculator first ascertains for the warp: What silk will be used, the cost of the same, total number of ends in the warps for the amount of silk, cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, warping, twisting, entering, and weaving.
Then the filling: Silk to be used, how much, cost of silk, cost of throwing, dyeing, winding, doubling, quilling.
After this determine the cost of weaving, cloth picking, finishing, factory costs, and selling expenses.
To-day most of the operations are paid by "piece work." ”

“ Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make a warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this gain should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of samples used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be figured and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré, faille, etc.
DISP. 7—A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook jacquard machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.
DISP. 8—Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one hole. ”

“ It is mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more firmness to the edge of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents the weaving ahead of the edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is sometimes used, especially when cotton or wool filling is employed, with a view to lay two picks nicely side by side, whereas a thread entered two ply with the taffeta weave will always receive some twist, which may disturb the perfect evenness of the fabric.
Fig. 18 is a Gros de Tours with two picks on four harness straight through. ”

“ These form the simplest and most common method of drawing-in. We begin with the first heddle on the left side of the shaft nearest to the warp-beam, then take the first heddle of second shaft and so on until all the shafts the set contains are used in rotation. This completes one "draw," and this operation is repeated until all the warp-threads are taken up.
The method of making the shaft nearest to the warp-beam the first, is almost universal with the silk business and is technically called drawing-in from back to front. ”

“ If a manufacturer decides to change plain looms to box looms or buy new box looms, it is wise to get 4 × 4 boxes, or four shuttle boxes on each side.
With these looms about everything can be made that is called for in box-loom effects, and as styles change, it is wise to be prepared. ”

“ Taffeta, satin, etc., having more picks, 121⁄2 per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per cent. per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw silk, throwing, dyeing and piece work.
SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the selling expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount. Small mills usually sell through a commission house, which pays all expenses and charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their own selling end, and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission house or a bank. ”

“ While it must not be our aim to imitate or copy their ways, inasmuch as out conditions and circumstances are quite different from theirs, we may still profitably study their methods in order to overcome our deficiencies. ”

“ For a jacquard weaving plant the designing is the most important factor.
BOX LOOM WEAVES INCLUDING CREPES
Box looms are required for weaves such as bayadères, checks, plaids (see pages 63-65) , bengalines, crêpes, etc., where two or more shuttles are needed to bring out the effect.
For the crêpes (crêpe de chine, crêpe georgette) only two shuttles are needed, while plaids and other articles are made with more shuttles.
To weave such articles the loom or the lay must be fitted with two or more shuttle boxes on one or both sides of the loom. ”

“ The greatest advantage which our competitors derive from such a long existence consists in having at their disposal a force of skilful, trained help. The manufacturers, appreciating the importance of this factor, make great efforts and pecuniary sacrifices to elevate and maintain the high standard of their industry. ”

“ One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately one or more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their respective neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of binding in a repeat will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This will cause the twill lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in the regular twill, and the character of the fabric approaches more that of the satin.
[pg 44]
Fig. ”

“ In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at the same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, which forms the ribs, another [pg 42] or binder warp, which works continually taffeta, while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the rib. ”

“ For instance, they support textile schools and lecture courses, where young men can acquire a thorough technical education and equip themselves for a career of usefulness, thereby serving their own interests and at the same time furthering those of their chosen profession. ”

“ CHECKS AND PLAIDS
If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the aid of suitable color combinations.
Check
Fig. ”

“ Enter first the odd and then the even shafts. An 8 harness draw of this kind, of which three repeats are shown in Fig. 3, runs as follows: 1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, 6, 8.
Fig. 4 is a 12 harness draw of the same class.
POINT DRAWS
Fig. ”