E. A. Posselt

“ If we reduce the texture of the fabric in a Jacquard loom tied-up for a solid comber-board, we must reduce proportionally the number of hooks and needles used in designing, and hence the number of heddles used per inch. These heddles will thus be left empty when drawing in the warp. To accomplish this lift the full machine and throw the hooks not to be used from the knives, lowering in this way every mail which is not to be used. Sometimes there may be only one, two, three, or four hooks to be thrown off, on account of the design. ”

“ For instance, suppose we have a dressgoods design of 596 threads and a 600 machine. These four ends left off the 600, if in 6, 7, 8, or more inches in width, would not affect the fabric nor the cost to any great extent; hence we may leave out the first or last four needles of the 600.
Suppose we have a texture of 100 in the comber-board, to lower to 66 ends per inch. 66 ends, or the nearest even part of 100 (66-2/3) is 2/3 of 100; hence, we only need two-thirds of our machine; and as the same is supposed to be arranged 12 rows deep, we need 2/3 of 12 rows, or 8 rows. ”

“ If you contemplate manufacturing Figured Goods, write to us for information, or send us samples of the goods you desire to make, and we will furnish you estimates for a complete equipment, including Jacquard Machines, with harness tied-up, designs made, cards cut, &c. Fifteen years’ practical experience in this line of business enables us to give our customers the Best Results with the Least Expense. ”

“ The beauty of an ingrain carpet consists in its color combination. In hand-looms the common batten is used in connection with a shuttle which is somewhat curved, a form most suitable to being thrown by the hand. ”

“ If the machine produces wrong lifts of the hooks and the trouble is not found in the setting of the cylinder, nor in the hooks or needles, then ascertain if the cylinder is adjusted by means of the lever arrangement, close enough to the needle-board; for if it is not, the hooks will not be pushed far enough from the griffe-bars, and by raising the latter a wrong shed will be produced. When using a great number of cards in a set they are made to fold into a “rack.” ”

“ The batten naturally falls towards the weaver by its own gravity, being usually worked a little out of a vertical line for that purpose. In this method the shed forms its own shuttle-race, or bed upon which the shuttle slides. When two or more shuttles are used, they are laid on the woven piece of carpet before the weaver, and he selects them as required. If a solid shuttle-race is connected to the batten, the warp-threads are pressed down upon it and the shuttle slides upon the ridge of the warp-threads. ”

“ Great care is used in its construction, thus making it a very efficient part of the loom, and is driven from the same shaft as the journals and box motion, thus working in harmony with them. The take-up motion is positive, and is very substantial and accurate, consisting of fluted rolls, and operated by the usual train of gearing, while the goods are wound up on a roll below. The let-off is controlled by the tension of the warp over a rocking whip roll, operated by a cam on the bottom shaft, held by a clamp friction, geared to the head of the beam. ”

“ After drawing from front to rear once straight through the entire set of harness, draw from rear to front and repeat. The only difference between harness-work and Jacquard work is in the fact, that with harness we commence to draw in from the first harness straight through to the last, A to B, and back again, B to C; but with the Jacquard tie-up on this method this is arranged through the threading of the comber-board, having a straight-through leasing of the heddles and drawing in of the warp. ”

“ If a fabric contains a great number of ends of warp bound differently in the filling, the method of guiding the warp by harness frames is too cumbrous and inefficient; in such cases it becomes necessary to use the Jacquard machine for raising the warp-threads separately by means of hook and leash.
The hooks as used for raising leash, mail, lingo, and warp-thread, consist of wires 16 to 17 inches long, with a crook on each end. On the lower crook is fastened the leash by means of the neck-cord. ”

“ It is not always practicable to reduce the effects in a design to the lowest possible number of needles. On account of the changes in styles, it is best to arrange these tie-ups with a view to giving as much opportunity as possible to the designer. In the present tie-up experience teaches that it will be more advantageous to arrange the straight-through tie-up either for 6 divisions to 48 ends each, or 4 divisions to 72 ends each. 360 needles, as figured at the beginning, require a 400 machine, or, counting reserve rows, 416 needles ”

“ Before commencing this work a clear conception of the tie-up and leasing of the heddles is required. The holes in the cards for the needles to penetrate, or the spots in cards where no hole is to be stamped, must be arranged in an uninterrupted chain from one row to the other, until all the rows are taken up. As previously mentioned, the method observed in tying-up the loom is the guide for stamping the cards. The number of ends required in a certain design may repeat only once in the number of hooks and needles employed in the Jacquard machine ”

“ Normally, all the keys are above the punches, and all would punch when the die ascends, but when a pattern card is carried by the pattern cylinder against the ends of the selecting needles, certain needles are moved and produce a reverse movement of the corresponding key-wires, and draws certain keys out of reach of their punches; no resistance being offered to the upward movement of such punches, they do not perforate the cards. ”

“ When cutting for the extra figure, deal with it alone.
If a fabric has the double-cloth system applied to the warp, only using one filling for both kinds of warp, and the Jacquard-harness is tied-up for “single sections,” the squared designing paper required is found from the proportion of the number of face and back warp-threads per inch, to the number of picks per inch. Example: Take a dressgoods fabric constructed on the following texture: 80 ends warp, 1 end ground, 1 end figure, and 60 picks to 1 inch. The proportion for the paper is as 80:60, or 8 × 6 designing paper. ”

“ Runs light.There is no heavy lay to operate, as in other looms. The lay (raceway and boxes) are stationary, and the filling is beaten up by means of a comb, which is the only part that swings; being light, it can easily accomplish the movements necessary for the one hundred picks per minute, which could never be attained by operating the lay as in any other loom. No tearing of cloth By the Shuttle Catching in the Warp and Being Drawn Up by the Reed, as the comb for beating up the filling passes in front of the shuttle. Easy on filling. ”

“ The motion is easy and delicate, and will not break the poorest filling—a great point of superiority over all other high-speed looms, in which there is always more or less tendency to chop the filling. Shuttle boxes. The box mechanism is the same as in the Murkland Loom, there being a revolver of seven boxes and three upright boxes, thus giving ten boxes on each side, or twenty in all. The Jacquard machine is constructed principally as in the Duckworth Loom, although the cylinder gauge, boards and journals are like those of the Murkland. ”

“ For the warp-threads required to be raised holes are punched in the cards. In these holes the points of the needles extending through the needle-board are pushed by a spring fastened on the rear of each needle. The needles are adjusted in rows of different heights. The arrangements most used are 4, 8, and 12 rows high. Each row as to height in the machine contains a bar (knife) in the griffe. When the griffe is down, or the machine at rest, the upper crooks of the hooks are raised about half an inch above the griffe-bars. ”

“ It is necessary to take care not to have the comber-board too deep, as the consequence would be a bad shed; furthermore, we must not have the holes too close together, as in a high texture this would make trouble in the weaving through the catching of the heddles with the warp, and also cause useless chafing of the warp-threads and the heddles. ”

“ Jacquard machines are made of different sizes and descriptions, some having only a few hooks and others a large number. The sizes most often used are 100, 200, 400, 600, 900, 1200 hooks. The number or size is always indicated by the number of needles and hooks which it contains, without counting the reserve rows, of which there are generally two. These reserve rows are used for various purposes, such as raising the selvedge; raising the front harness; raising the shuttle-boxes on hand-looms; guiding the take-up motion on hand-looms ”

“ As these griffes work in opposition, one descends while the other ascends; this motion prevents the leash from dropping the entire length of the cords, since the ascending griffe catches it at half distance as the two griffes pass each other. In this operation the shed is never entirely closed, and a corresponding gain in speed is attained. It will thus be seen that the “double lift” single cylinder has great advantages over the ordinary machine. Of course, the warp-thread must make its complete journeys up and down when called for by the design ”

“ When cutting cards eight rows deep, the thumb of the right hand works the key for the peg-hole; the eight keys in the rear of the machine (which are the ones to be used) are worked by the four fingers of each hand. ”

“ Tying-up of Jacquard looms with extra compound harness, consists in applying two separate systems of harness in the loom. The warp-threads, after having passed through the Jacquard harness, are passed through harness in front. Each system of harness performs special duty, although they are both working the same warp. The Jacquard harness is used for forming the general design on a large scale ”

“ Fig. 21 illustrates the Uhlinger Card Stamping Machine operated by belt-power. Being the same in principle as the foot-power machine, it is only necessary to state that instead of working the machine by means of the cutting pedals, it is done automatically by simply touching any of the keys that operate the punches; thus the machine makes one stroke and punches the required holes. ”

“ One whip-thread against one or more ground-threads. More than one whip-thread against one or more ground-threads.
There are two methods of tying-up for gauze fabrics: 1st. A tie-up in which the doups are worked by one, two, three or four shafts in front of the Jacquard harness. 2d. A tie-up in which the gauze figuring is done all over the fabric, requiring each doup to be arranged for working separately. If the ground-threads and whip-threads are worked from the same Jacquard machine, the latter must be divided into two sections: 1st section for the ground-threads with ground heddles ”

“ The Jacquard cards are placed on the machine at B ́, and move in rotation under needle, Z. The movement of the cards must be so regulated that, notwithstanding the want of uniformity in the arrangement of the holes, each hole in turn must come directly under the lacing needles.
The lacing of the cards is produced as follows: After the cards have moved one hole, the needles, Z, lower to P ́, Fig. 43, making the shed. The shuttles move [102] with their points under the thread thus lowered by the needle, and pass clear through the loop. ”

“ The machine used for illustrating is a 400 Jacquard 8-row machine, and the comber-board used is also 8 rows deep. This method of tying-up of the leashes forms what is technically known as “open harness.” As the drawing is designed to explain a 400 machine, 8 rows drawn in the comber-board, also 8 rows deep, one row in height of the cylinder will equal one row in depth on the comber-board. In examining the illustration the eye must follow the line connecting the [25] numbers on the neck-cords to the corresponding numbers near the holes on the comber-board. ”

“ Very often two whip-threads are used for twisting, in which case they must be drawn together in the doup. If several whip and ground-threads are drawn into one reed they usually work independently at first on a regular weave; following this is the gauze weave formed by a certain number of whip-threads raised either on the left or right of the ground-threads contained in the same dent. ”

“ Biddeford, Maine, Manufacturers of Raw Hide and Leather Loom Pickers and Strapping,Including many varieties of Raw Hide Pickers never before made in this country, such as Scoops, Centre Scoops, Pressed Centres, Feathered Feet Bows, XL Bows, All of which are a superior substitute for the ordinary Bow Picker. Sole Manufacturers of the Parker Patent Drop Box Picker, Which is so constructed that the blow is against the edge of the hide forming the body of the Picker. These Pickers have no plug in the Shuttle Strike to be driven out or worked loose, and they are guaranteed not to break at the head. ”

“ It frequently happens that we find slight variations in the number of threads used in the various grades of carpet named. The pattern may require such a change, or economy in production may induce the maker to use a smaller number; or, as is done in a few instances, a manufacturer may always make his “extra super” on 32 rows; but all such changes are done by a corresponding depreciation of the value of the fabric, as compared with a full “extra super” of 33-1/2 rows.
Fig. CXII.
Fig. ”

“ Sometimes a few of the needles and hooks from the reserve are added to the main part of the needles and hooks. For example: Take a design in which the ground weave repeats on 12 ends; working a 400 machine, we find:
400 ÷ 12 = 33 repeats of the weave, less 4 hooks;
Consequently, if this ground-weave is repeated all over the width of the fabric, we must use either:
396 hooks, leaving 4 hooks more to be added to the two rows already used ”