C. D. Mackellar

“ The floor of the shop is a couple of feet or so above the level of the street outside—that is of the real Japanese shop, not the up-to-date, Europeanised ones. The floor, of course, covered with the beautiful matting, cannot be walked on by our clumsy boots, as it is sat on by every one, and is even their dining-table. But I used to sit on the edge of the floor with my feet in the street outside and chat to the inmates for hours. In Yokohama almost every one knew a little English, and many knew it well. But essays at each other's languages and funny mistakes always produced delighted laughter. ”

“ There are very handsome buildings and private houses. There is a railway up to the Peak, but I liked toiling up the steep, winding ways, watching the people and the lines of coolies carrying up bricks on slings across their shoulders. What loads they carry, men and women, and how ceaseless the movement. I amused myself very well, and explored as much of Hong-Kong and the Kowloon mainland as I had time for. When out in the country I once met a Chinaman tearing along with a rickshaw in which lolled a dead - drunk and sleeping bluejacket, whose face and clothes gave evidence of a battle. ”

“ Once, in a quiet street, I came across some Japanese girls learning to ride a bicycle—it is at any time a rather amusing sight—but those quaint little figures careering wildly, bicycle and all, into the arms of every passer-by, their peals of soft laughter and little cries—the gaiety of the thing was so infectious that you felt it quite natural to be as one of them and assist in the lesson, just as you would with children ”

“ On arrival at Hong-Kong the sides of thetanks, which are the side the ship, are thrown open, and out pours a silver flood of live fish into the waiting boats, which race each other to market, as the first boatload fetches a higher price than the others. It was a wonderful sight to see this silver flood issuing from the ship's side. Another wonderful sight on this lower deck was to see the seven hundred Chinese passengers, packed there like sardines with all their goods and gear. They sprawled about in every attitude, and we had to step over them and almost on them to see the tanks. ”

“ During the long period during which the Boer War was waged, Japan and her people took our side, stuck to us through thick and thin, lauded our successes, and minimised our mistakes.. No nation ever showed to another such loyal faith. We had not many such friends. Why forget it? Japan simply stood for us and by us through it all.
There was an American, Mr. Duncan, on the Empress of India, bound for San Francisco. Why did he come by Vancouver? I asked. Whilst he could sail on a British ship with a British captain there was no chance of his going with any other, was his answer. ”

“ Europeans resident in Japan make many complaints about the Japanese—I dare say they have cause. But the passer-by is not so affected, and, if a mere pleasure-pilgrim like me, may as well give himself or herself up to the charm and ignore all else.
The hotel at Yokohama being rather full, a young Scotsman was placed at my table one night, who introduced himself, saying he had known me by name and sight for years, had seen me at German watering-places, in Scotland, in London, more lately in Ceylon, and Hong-Kong, and now found himself at my table in Yokohama! So goes the world! ”

“ I inspected a silk factory in a dirty Chinese village, where numbers of women were spinning—a curious sight; then to Porta di Cerco—the barrier on the causeway which joins Macao and the island. Near this part are mud-flats in the seashallows where oysters, are cultivated. The men go over the mud on planks with great ease and at some pace. "Flora," the country residence of the Governor, is also near—a villa with a very charming Chinese garden laid out in terraces with balustrades of turquoise blue and green porcelain. ”

“ The Chinese of their own accord had closed every shop, and by nighttime were draping them in crape. It was quite curious to see the empty, quiet streets—as I said, a sudden hush fell on that town, and, indeed, on the whole East.
Out in the East and through many far-away lands and seas Queen Victoria was regarded as almost a divine being she was the Queen of all the white people, not merely of the British; and will rank through all ages in Oriental legends and tales as a sort of half-mythical being, not as mere woman and ruler. ”

“ It is their irresistible charm, their delicate, refined ways, and their beautiful, soft, low-toned voices which so fascinate. A pretty, graceful, European girl looks quite an awkward monster beside them. I do not believe there is anything more charming in the world than the “Saronaya!”—the farewell of the Japanese women, with the dear little “Please come again,” in English at the end of it. ”

“ As in Hong-Kong there are three classes of police—the familiar British "Bobby," the Sikh, and the Chinese. As you drive along the Bund in the British part you come to a bridge, get out, walk across it, and find yourself in the French Concession, and take another rickshaw, and there are their houses, badly paved streets, and their police. I visited, of course, the Chinese tea-house, which is after the pattern of those you see pictured on a "willow-pattern" plate. The carriages have Chinese servants in smart liveries. It was very cold and snowed in the evening. ”

“ The large junks are all armed with small cannon, and of course all Chinese boats have the two eyes in the bows, to " look-see "where they are going. We passed one junk filled with children who had been kidnapped by pirates, recaptured, and were being returned to their homes. They were a curious spectacle.
The river abounds with creeks which are the refuges of the numerous pirates, who sally forth on plunder bent. We no doubt carried many on the Honam, as thousands of Chinese pour in and out of Hong-Kong every day, and most look the same to us. ”

“ In those streets they swarm, all at play; so many you can scarce get through them. But, if a little one is flying a kite and the string accidentally comes across you, the quaint little bow and apology delights you. ”

“ He described a Chinaman coming at him with a long lance, giving him no time to think, so he could only shoot the man in the forehead, and he tumbled dead at his feet. The Chinese fought naked, their “buff” being an admirable colour for khaki, as they were invisible against the background. The other new arrival was Captain-Lieutenant Heinrich of the German Navy, who had been four months on a hospital ship, and was bound for the hotel in Japan, where his Government had hired rooms for the officers to recruit. ”

“ Kobe seems well situated at the foot of a range of hills—one peak having still snow on it. There was at Kobe a rumour of the death of Li Hung Chang, but it was incorrect. This personage was constantly dying and always being dug up again. But I wonder if Chinese ever die?
I had left Shanghai at about midday on a Monday, and on Saturday evening was installed at the Grand Hotel in Yokohama, which town at first view presents no interesting features. But that day I had my first view of the world-famous Fujiyama, or “Fuji,” as every one calls it, and its fame is well deserved. ”

“ As I examined the Kamo-asi, the three-leaved Asarum, which is the crest of the Shoguns, I was rejoiced to think that I had acquired things that bore that mark—and there in the place of honour in the great temple is a beautiful silken cover with the Tokugawa crest, presented by the Emperor—and I have its counterpart. The crest of the Mikado is, of course, the sixteen-leaved chrysanthemum. Shiba, Ueno, Asakusa, Kwannon—who does not know them now? Ueno—called Kimon, or “the Devil’s Gate,” so famous for its cherry blossom, is regarded as the most unlucky of the whole world. ”

“ Vancouver city, the terminus of the C.P.R., on the mainland, has 25,000 inhabitants (1901) . Until May 1886 its site was covered by a dense forest. In two months it had grown quite a town, then a fire destroyed every house save one. It lies on the fine Coal Harbour, a widening of Burrard Inlet. It is easy to see what a fine city is to be here one day.
I found the Vancouver hotel large, comfortable enough, but ordinary. Stanley Park is the Government reservation, and contains very old and gigantic trees— what a magnificent land, another of the heritages of the British race. ”

“ Every one comes from Hong-Kong for the week-end or a few days to indulge in this pastime, but, according to my old-fashioned ideas, it is a strange taste that brings ladies into such a place.
The following morning I hired a rickshaw and two Chinese boys and explored Macao. The streets of the town are narrow and often steep. I dislike a rickshaw very much, and still more do I dislike being drawn about by a panting and perspiring runner ”

“ I had made a long tour of the island and was trundling along peacefully by the edge of the sea when my coolies suddenly stopped, exchanged remarks, and one said to me, " You killee me."
" Well, you silly old thing," I replied, " why do you let yourself be killed? "
So I alighted, gave them cigarettes, and we all sat on the shore to rest. When we resumed our return journey I told them to go quietly, and the consequence was they walked all the way! A rickshaw when the coolie walks is a foolish business. ”

“ After the foundation of Hong-Kong in 1841 trade decreased. At present it seems half moribund; there is no life in the streets, and it has a distinct air of having seen better days. The Boa Vista Hotel is quite a good building and has prettily laid out terraces descending to the sea. Captain Clarke, of the boat I came over in, owns and runs it, and he and his wife seem to manage well—though in truth it seemed really to be managed by Chinese "boys." My bedroom window had a pleasant outlook over the town and harbour. ”

“ Captain Jones of the Honam, a very pleasant, polite, and hospitable man, entertained us in his cabin and showed us some of his valuable pieces of Chinese porcelain of which he was a collector. At my request he took us down to the lower deck to see the live fish which were being brought to the Hong-Kong market. There were ten large tanks on either side of the ship each holding half a ton of live fish— Canton river salmon, a sort of lamprey, and others; water is always being pumped in. ”

“ Even the coolies who run before your rickshaw have their daily hot bath—nay, are boiled daily! Probably the Japanese are the cleanest people existing. Bath-houses are everywhere, and the blind people act as shampooers, go about the street making a noise with their wooden stave, and can be called in as they pass any house. ”

“ Shameen, the foreign settlement, is an island in the river, formed out of a mud-flat, and is laid out with handsome houses, trees, and promenades—the consulates and the hotel being there. The bridges joining it to the city of Canton have gates, and are guarded by Chinese soldiers. No Chinaman, save the servants of the foreigners, is ever allowed on the island. ”

“ The gunboats of the different Powers lie in the river on the other side, with their guns trained across Shameen, on the city of Canton, ready to fire if necessary.
But an enormous floating population lives entirely on the river; it is one mass of junks, sampans, and boats of all descriptions, so that, in the event of trouble, the Chinese need only step across this mass of craft and on to the island. Here, too, are the " flower-boats," where gay, painted Chinese ladies dispense tea, give concerts, and otherwise provide all the pleasures dear to Chinese or Europeans. ”

“ Quite insensibly you grow to adapt your manner to theirs, speak gently, feel inclined to be polite, and could not think of being loud-voiced or boisterous. Even when full of romping and high spirits it is in their own way. ”

“ The midshipmen came at last—hot, breathless, flustered, laden with chocolates and apologies— but they were not listened to, were most haughtily repulsed; there were tossing heads and disdainful pouts—but sidelong glances at the chocolates—and the most emphatic "Noes," which were meant to be "Yes-es" in the end. Real women these. ”

“ On IIth March we were passing along Lake Superior, and the following day arrived at Montreal, I exceedingly thankful those dreary six days in that train were over! As we passed through the great plains—impressive in their immensity one heard at every station strong Scottish accents and saw Scottish faces. It is surely the Scot who has made Canada what she is. ”

“ Ladies may be consoled to think that when their husbands visit tea-houses in Japan they are nice and quiet. Because I was quiet she was sure I was married. When I informed her I was still a lone, lorn bachelor, she was undisturbed, and said she liked me better than Dzjobek, who she said was “a rough-house man”; but we were to remember she was no “rough-house girl,” and she proceeded to give us a dissertation on things Japanese. She was " middle class," she said, and the middle class were thoroughly respectable, but not ih the least nobility. ”

“ After the expulsion of the Portuguese and Spaniards in 1637 only the Dutch and the Chinese were allowed to trade here, until it was opened for foreign trade in 1859. There are large British and Russian colonies here. The three-mile-long narrow harbour is a good one and also very pretty.
The famous Jimmu Tenno was the first Mikado and was born 660 b.c.
Before 7 a.m. we were aroused by the Japanese Health Officers for inspection, and the ship-coaling operations began. All the coaling was done by men and young girls by passing quite small baskets with great rapidity over their heads. ”

“ They argued, each persisting he recognised his wife, so I interfered.
“I have heard a great deal about marriages in Japan,” I said, “but if men cannot recognise their own wives, things must really be very odd. Suppose I take the lady, and that will settle it!”
They rolled about with laughter at this suggestion, declaring I might have her! But on reaching the pier I changed my mind, and generously gave her up to her real owner.
Captain Heinrich and Lieutenant Dzjobek were my frequent companions in Yokohama, and they introduced me to other German officers. ”

“ The steamboat took three hours to reach Macao, was clean and good, and Captain Clarke was most entertaining. There were two English ladies on board an elderly one and a young and pretty one. In the dining-saloon hung cutlasses and loaded guns for the use of the passengers should the Chinese attempt anything, and Chinese sailors, armed with sword, pistol, and gun, stood on guard over the hatchways leading to the lower deck, where hundreds of Chinese were padlocked down—for some of these might be pirates. ”

“ Poor, tired little creature; her head rested on my outstretched arm, which grew perfectly numb and stiff, but it might have dropped off ere I would have moved it.I do not believe there is anything so beautiful in life as a little child asleep—and I just loved this one.
It is the thing to go from Hong-Kong to Macao, the Portuguese place, for week-ends; but I went on a Tuesday. I left my room and all my belongings in charge of my three Chinese boys. ”

“ Ah Cum John paid everything, and we settled with him on our return to the hotel.
Chinamen, like most Eastern races, enjoy a joke, and I had entirely got the right side of my two coolies by proposing, when we once stopped for a rest, they should get inside the chair and that I should carry them. This seemed to them too funny for words, and they kept relating it to bystanders, who also seemed to think it excruciatingly funny. Get people amused and they are very ready to do anything for you. ”