Summary

Edmund Knecht 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica, Volume 18… (1911)

Cotton yarn may be mercerized either in the hank or in the warp, and a great number of machines have been patented and constructed for the purpose. The simplest form of machine for hanks consists essentially of two superposed strong steel rollers, on which the hanks are placed and spread out evenly. The upper roller, the bearings of which run in a slotted groove, is then raised by mechanical means until the hanks are taut. Caustic soda of 60° Tw. is now applied, and the upper roller is caused to revolve slowly, the hanks acting as a belt and causing the lower roller to revolve simultaneously.
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Edmund Knecht 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica, Volume 18… (1911)

When viewed under the microscope by reflected light, the irregularly twisted band-shaped cotton fibre is seen to exhibit a strong lustre at those points from which the light is reflected from the surface. Cotton mercerized without tension shows a similar appearance. In the yarn or piece the lustre is not apparent, because the innumerable reflecting surfaces disperse the light in all directions. If, however, the cotton has been mercerized under tension, being plastic while still containing the caustic soda, it is stretched and is set in this condition by the washing.
Source: Wikisource

Edmund Knecht 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica, Volume 18… (1911)

In piece-goods, long-stapled cotton also gives the best results, but it is not necessary that the yarn used for weaving should be twofold. In the great majority of cases, the mercerizing of cotton, whether it be in the yarn or in the piece, is done before bleaching, but sometimes it is found preferable to mercerize after bleaching, or even after bleaching and dyeing. The strength of the caustic soda employed in practice is generally between 55° and 60° Tw.
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