Gustavus A. Eisen

“ At every step, almost, we pass teams going in various directions,—teams loaded with raisin boxes, teams with raisin trays, teams crowded with raisin pickers hurrying out to the vineyards, teams driven by raisin-growers or colonists generally, who rush to and from town to transact business connected with their one great industry. Everywhere is bustle and life; every one is in a hurry, as the grape-picking has begun, and the weather is favorable; no one has any time to lose. ”

“ We approach rapidly the upper end of the valley, where the elevated mesa spreads out all around like a perfect ampitheater, backed by the loftiest mountains in Southern California. The mesa is now in close view, and Redlands, Lugonia, Terracina, Crafton, all different points of the same settlement, lie in front of us at an elevation of about fifteen hundred feet above the sea, like a map or extensive panorama, where roads, orchards and houses are so clearly and distinctly seen that they can be observed at a glance. ”

“ We have crossed a few irrigating ditches full to overflowing with water, and see a few orchards and vineyards with their bright green scattered about on the yellow plains. There is suddenly a general stir in the cars, hats and bundles are taken down from the racks, most of the passengers prepare to move, the locomotive whistles, houses and trees are seen on both sides through the car windows, the train comes to a standstill, there is a hum of voices, a waiting crowd swarms around the cars, a throng of people pushes in, and another throng pushes out. ”

“ On both sides of the avenue are sidewalks of cement, and they who prefer walking can do so for miles under the shady trees without getting dusty or becoming heated by the sun. These sidewalks are marvels of beauty and comfort. On one side are old and graceful trees with drooping limbs, on the other are well-kept cypress hedges trimmed square and even, or long natural barriers of ever-blooming geraniums in numerous varieties, of every favorite shade of color from crimson to palest pink. Over the hedges we look into blue-grass lawns, green and well kept and exceedingly attractive. ”

“ The Riverside colony forms a continuous settlement along the mesa, skirting the river, the deep green of the orange orchards harmonizing splendidly with the lighter green of the vineyards. At close intervals there are houses in every direction, with the bluest smoke rising straight up from their chimneys, and thence carried in long, tiny bands and columns down the valley just level with the tree tops. ”

“ Through the irrigation water always at the command of the horticulturist, our lands are being transformed into beautiful orchards, vineyards and meadows. The peach, the prune, the apricot, the pear and the raisin-grape are made to flourish, and the olive to produce its valuable oil, the orange and the lemon their golden fruit. The colonies already established are situated in the thermal belt of the Sierra, in the finest citrus region of the State, in a district equal to the best anywhere, and in a territory remarkable for its earliness and productiveness. ”

“ This is the great San Joaquin valley, the fertile center of California. Of the much spoken of irrigation of California, we see almost nothing; the land is dry and thirsty, the soil is loose, and the engine forces the dust in a cloud before us. Nothing green is seen anywhere except a few scattered trees far, far apart. ”

“ Thus we find ourselves in the possession of a combination of nature and art, which present advantages in climate, health, water privileges, wealth of soil and their productions which are not as fully possessed by any other locality in California. And, as an enduring crown to our prosperity, we point to the late Act of Congress of the United States in setting apart the Yosemite Park, with her giant Sequoia and sugar-pine forests, insuring and perpetuating the annual snow and rain on the watershed of our canal system. ”

“ Between all wind the shaded avenues with pepper and gum, cypress, pine or yellow flowering grevillea. The soil is everywhere of the richest kind, of a color between ashy green and chocolate. Nowhere have we seen such magnificent Indian corn,—whole fields where the stalks are from twelve to sixteen feet high. Orange is a more pretentious town than Tustin, but hardly any more beautiful, and far less secluded and quiet. ”

“ Every acre is carefully cultivated; there is room for only a few weeds. As far as we drive the same scene is everywhere, a scene like that in the outskirts of a populous city, where villas and pleasure grounds alternate with the cultivated acres, here those of the raisin-grower, and where every foot of ground is guarded with zealous care and made to produce to its utmost capacity. It is a pretty sight, a sight of thrift and intelligence, of enterprise and of success, of wealth and of refinement, found nowhere else outside of the fruit-growing and raisin-producing districts of California. ”

“ Strange enough, in calculating the cost of a vineyard in Greece, no one ever takes into consideration the price of the plantation or the capital invested. The interest on the same is never considered by the natives. In this respect they resemble our own farmers, who, in calculating the expenses of their farms, never take into consideration the labor of themselves and family. Of course, it is almost impossible to obtain exact calculations of profit. ”

“ The first things that meet our eye at every station are large and splendid lawns, young plantations of palm trees and other plants characteristic of the Southern coast climate, flowers of brightest hue, all started by the enterprising immigrants who came here to buy climate, sun and air, and to enjoy the breakers and the ocean every day in the year. After Oceanside, we touch at Carlsbad and Del Mar, both seaside resorts with magnificent villas costing from twenty to forty thousand dollars each, and with fine but young plantations and gardens. ”

“ Whether you wish to select land or plant it to vines and trees, whether you are a capitalist, the member of a syndicate or a farmer, my services will be a thousand times more valuable to you than the reasonable charge I make for them. If you are not acquainted with land, soil, climate or the profits of the horticultural industry you intend to engage in, you will find it to your advantage to engage me to make you thorough and truthful reports. ”

“ The grove of palms, ornamental and shade trees, the flowers and shrubbery surrounding the Colonel’s home in the center of the vineyard, are all models of beauty and testify to the culture and prosperity of one of our foremost raisin-growers. ”

“ FROM LOS ANGELES TO SANTA ANA.
We are fairly out of Los Angeles when the character of the scenery changes. The railroad here runs through one of the most fertile counties in the State,—the rich bottom lands being formed by the deposits of ages from the overflow of rivers and creeks from the Sierra Madre range. Not an acre of waste land is to be seen anywhere. Everything is clothed in the softest green, and only in the far distance are seen the hills and higher mountains of a brownish violet color, with the boldest outlines against the sky. A more diversified farming district is seldom seen. ”

“ In some districts there is such a great difference in the time of ripening upon the various soils that the grapes grown on the earliest soils are used only as table grapes fresh. In planting a raisin vineyard, the future profits depend upon the choice of land, and it is far better to pay a high price for the best land than to take the inferior land as a gift. Few of those who now enter upon raisin culture take the proper care in selecting the land, neither do they sufficiently, if at all, realize the advantages of the rich soil, nor the disadvantages of the poor land. ”

“ The business portion of Riverside is confined to two streets crossing each other at right angles. If we stand in the center of this crossing we take it all in, the houses extending a block and a half in the four different directions. Some of the houses and brick blocks are very large and expensive, while many again are smaller, but all are costly and elegant, with new and perhaps startling ornamental designs. Whatever Southern California does, it does well, and even the cheapest structures have an air of character and taste which can hardly be too much admired. ”

“ The street-car lines of Fresno do not run very far out in the country, and to see the latter we must procure a team. The colonies or settlements of small farms immediately join the town limits; we are thus with one step out in the country. On either side we see continuous rows of vineyards,—the leaves green and brilliant, the vines planted in squares and pruned low, with the branches trailing on the ground. To begin with, the houses stand closely, almost as in a village. As we get farther out there is a house on every twenty-acre farm, or every one-eighth of a mile. ”

“ The vineyard of the late Miss Austin is yet in its prime, the evergreen trees and hedges being as inviting as in days of old. New vineyards which have not yet come into bearing are seen on every side, while in places whole orchards or single rows of trees have yielded to the axe to be replaced by the better-paying raisin-vines. ”

“ The climate of this part of Southern California is excellent. The thermometer stands at midday at eighty in the shade; in the evening there is always a breeze. Many of those I meet complain as usual, and greet me with the inevitable, “How warm it is to-day,” and our as inevitable answer is, that we cannot feel it, and that it just seems delightful to us. ”

“ These Hollander colonists are the very best kind of settlers the State can get,—not the ignorant peasantry of Europe, but intelligent and well-educated people, which any community can be proud of. There is great activity in the colony just now. Thousands of acres are covered with magnificent grain, which, without any more rain, would give a profit of from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre, and thus materially help to pay for the land. A hundred or more horses and mules with their drivers are plowing and harrowing the soil; and such a plowing is not often seen anywhere. ”

“ The grapes were grown on a piece of sandy soil of the kind well known to Fresno vine-growers, and which is generally considered as less suited to raisins, lacking in fact in more than one of the necessary qualities of a good raisin soil.
It is certainly a wrong policy to crop the soil until the grape crops begin to fail. The soil will then be so exhausted of several of its ingredients, that it will take the most scientific treatment to bring it back again to what it was formerly, and it is even questionable if this could be done in a way that would prove profitable. ”

“ Here and there we pass a little town with wooden houses and dusty streets, with wooden churches whose spires do not pierce the sky. We cross many streams, several of which are dry, or have sluggish waters, while some wind their way down the valley between banks covered with willows and cottonwoods. ”

“ Verily, I have never seen choicer grapes anywhere, and I am satisfied that they could not be surpassed by any for raisins. What a fertile country this will be when irrigation is better understood and more practiced. Could we but see it when that time comes.
RIVERSIDE.
There is no place in Southern California where the effects of a close and intelligent study of horticultural matters are so visible as in Riverside. Money alone may build villas and mansions; but the intelligent and ever watchful horticulturist alone can, out of climate, soil, water and capital, produce a Riverside. ”

“ We rush for a few minutes through these highly cultivated lands, and suddenly find ourselves out on a wide, open plain, comprising about eighty thousand acres, without a house to be seen anywhere, with no orchards, no vineyards, no signs of civilized life. And still the soil is the richest, the native vegetation of grasses the most luxuriant. ”

“ While, in some parts of California, the first crop dries generally without any difficulty, in other parts rain and dew very frequently interfere with the drying of even the first crop. In many places where raisin-curing is not successful, the same could be practiced profitably if we would adopt the system of drying-floors used in Spain. Even in localities where the first-crop raisins dry well, the second crop is always exposed to more or less rain, and the raisin-grower annually loses large sums of money on account of not being able to hasten the drying of the second crop. ”

“ Labor is high, and everything the small farmer produces is high, including poultry, vegetables and fruit, and will always be so. The big farmer can’t get at this business with his steam engine and long sickle. We can close Europe and the United States out of the fruit-producing business, and force them to become consumers. Why? Because of the certainty of our crops, and because we have the whole valley for a drying house. ”

“ Many raisin-packers place this broad end of the bunch so as to protrude above or between the berries, as if inviting the purchaser to take hold of it and thus lift the luscious bunch out of the box. With the poorer and smaller bunches, no such care in cutting need be exercised, and it would be to no benefit to so cut a small, poor bunch that it would cause the purchaser to believe it was a large bunch. Poorer bunches might therefore be cut with short stems. As to the handling of the bunches, the intelligent grower will soon learn how to instruct his men. ”

“ Everywhere are school-houses of artistic designs, most magnificent ones in the older settlements, smaller but tasty ones in those of almost yesterday. As we pass along the mesa, the upper San Bernardino valley, closed in by steep and lofty mountains, lies on our right, and in front the Santa Ana river courses through the center of the valley, with its vast broad river bottom covered with wild vegetation, pastures or cultivated fields. We cross several ditches, one laid in cement, with the water running in them as clear as that in the washbowl. ”

“ Greece and in Spain, the largest and most prosperous districts are those where the raisin-vines are liberally irrigated. The Muscat grape seems especially to love water, and, in the real raisin districts, the healthiest vineyards are those that are best irrigated. The berries and bunches are also increased in size, but not in flavor and aroma, by irrigation. In places where the raisin grapes will not bear without irrigation, the latter, of course, is a necessity. There are always naturally subirrigated parts, in every county or district, where artificial irrigation is not required. ”

“ In the first planting, the soil has been put in order with the help of horses and plows, while, when we replant, the very spots where the vines are to be located cannot be reached by other means than by a pick or shovel, as, no matter how well the old vineyard is plowed, there will always be a hard spot around every vine, or around the place where the vine should be, and where it failed to grow. If only a few cuttings have taken root, it is better to plow up the whole vineyard and reset, and in so doing endeavor to do better work. ”

“ Phosphates must therefore be considered as the best fertilizers we can use, but the quantity to be used must always be determined by a practical chemist. Of these chemical fertilizers, it is dangerous to use too much, as they might injure the vines, and from fifty to a few hundred pounds to the acre may in some instances suffice and produce better crops than would four or five times as much. But, regardless of chemical fertilizers, the cautious raisin-grower should endeavor to return to the soil as much as he possibly can out of the wastes of his crop. ”

“ In warm localities, with a broiling sun, the principal object in pruning should be to properly shelter the grapes. There is danger, or at least there are great disadvantages in pruning either too long or too short, and in leaving too many or too few spurs. In pruning too long, or leaving too many eyes, the shape of the vine is changed or even seriously injured. In leaving too many spurs, the vines may bear too many and too small grapes. To find the medium between these extremes is always the great object and study to which the grower should devote his attention. ”