Herbert Edward Pretyman

“ Still winding our way up the Wadi; the mountains getting higher and steeper as we go on. Spied a most beautiful gazelle at about 10 o’clock, feeding on the scrub at the entrance to a ravine; not the common Dorcas gazelle, but quite a different sort. The Arabs called it a white gazelle, and said it was rare. I had a good look through my glass at it. It was nearly all white, with a few black markings on it, and lyre-shaped horns. It had evidently seen our caravan and was slowly making for the mountains. ”

“ Powney went out to-day and visited the mountains on the Red Sea side of our camp, but saw no game. I stayed in camp in the morning and busied myself preparing the skin, head, and feet, &c., of yesterday’s ibex. I was sitting in the tent at about midday, when a “devil” suddenly came past and blew it down flat. [13] Luckily the bamboo ridge pole did not break, so we put up our home again; but presently another devil came, and blew it down a second time. We have now got guy ropes out from the tent poles and big rocks on all the pegs, so I hope we shall not get blown down again. ”

“ These low mountains are of black granite and look like gigantic cinderheaps. The midday sun is “powerful” hot, and one longs for a little shade. We made a large, cheery camp fire this evening, and I sat and wondered what you were all of you doing at home— probably enjoying a good dinner. It is deadly still here; nothing to break the stillness of the night but the munching of the camels as they chew the cud. There is a planet rises at about 2 A.M., which is so bright that it casts a shadow like the moon. I suppose it is Jupiter, or perhaps it is the star Sirius.
IN THE MEDISA RAVINE. ”

“ To-morrow the camels return for Powney, so we shall be alone for eleven days at least, during which time I hope to shoot an ibex and explore the mountains. We are 1700 feet above Kenneh by aneroid, and the night seems warmer than in the desert.
Medisa,
January 13th, 1891.
Climbed the mountain close to our camp in a N.E. direction, so as to cut into the gorge higher up than the spot where we had watered our camels yesterday. According to Floyer’s map, which is so far the only one in existence, the Kittar cascade should be reached about eight miles higher up this same ravine. ”

“ The well, which lies in a hollow at the foot of the mountains, is merely a hole scratched in the sand which contains about thirty gallons of dirty water, and is the worst we have so far seen; so dirty, in fact, that it has all to be boiled and filtered before we can use it. ”

“ The full moon looked lovely, rising behind the mountain, to-night. We amused ourselves playing picquet this evening, before dinner. We have to go to bed very early as candles are precious and getting scarce. ”

“ Cold night again, but lovely morning; cool wind which makes walking pleasant. Killed an ibex about five miles from camp in some low cinder mountains at the edge of the range. He, as usual, on being hunted by the dogs, took refuge in a cleft of the rock in the side of a low precipice. The express ·450 bullet cut his heart and lungs all to bits, but did no injury to the meat. It is a mistake to use an “express” for these beasts as, unless one hits them exactly in the right place, the meat is spoiled. Powney has a ·500 express, big enough to kill an ox with. ”

“ We halt always for twenty minutes lunch at midday under the shade of our kneeling camels. Something went wrong with the pea soup this evening, which was not quite up to the mark. It is very amusing to watch the camels scrambling for their ration of beans after their march. They have nosebags put on and stand feeding for all the world like a lot of London cab-horses. ”

“ Breakfast at dawn, and made an early start up the Wadi in an easterly direction. The valley forks at about three miles, the south fork leading to Medisa, the north leads into the Munfia mountains, and eventually curls south-east to the Kohila water. The wind was north, so we started up the latter ravine. After clambering over the rocks for two miles we picked up some fresh spoor, which took us down a branch ravine leading south-east. We soon started a beast, but it ran down a precipice, down wind, where we could not follow, so we had to give it up, and pursue our way again up the main ravine. ”

“ My Bedawi is as nimble as a cat. An Arab brought in a fine ibex head. He killed the beast yesterday not far from here. I have [25] now thoroughly explored all the mountain to the east of our camp, and to-morrow start in the other direction. When Powney arrives, probably next Thursday, we shall shift camp a day’s journey farther into the mountains. There is a pool there, and I hear from some of the Bedawin that there are more ibex there.
MEDISA FALL, UPPER POOL.
I caught a spider as big as a mouse crawling up inside my tent, such a loathsome brute. ”

“ It is useless to stalk these brutes without a dog, as they hide amongst the rocks, and [28] it is like hunting for a needle in a bottle of hay. I was joyfully surprised, on my return to camp, to find Powney had come, having made the journey from Kenneh in four days, travelling light and making long marches. ”

“ At Kenneh, the camels are to be collected and the final start made to the Kittar Mountains, where we propose to make our first permanent camp. I find Powney cannot possibly reach here before January the 8th, so he will have to come on straight after me. If I can wait, I may possibly visit Luxor and Karnac before starting from Kenneh. In this case we should both go over the desert together; but it depends upon many things whether I wait for him or not. Cairo is unbearable—a ball and a dinner party every night. ”

“ We now clambered round and secured the carcase from the hungry dogs who had not mauled it, but luckily contented themselves by licking up the blood. We carried our burden off, and found Powney had already pitched camp and got tea ready. We have had a few drops of rain here during the last few days, and this particular place is really quite cold. Powney sleeps in his Norsk reindeer bag, and does not find it too hot. We have got twenty days more to spend in the mountains, during which time we hope to get some sport, as there seems to be no Arabs here to disturb the game. ”

“ Our flour will not last out, so we are sending off two camels to Kenneh to-morrow for more. They will take our letters for England. Our meat is all gone, so I was glad to see Powney returning to camp this evening with an ibex which he had got late in the afternoon. Whenever any of our people go to the wells in the mountains they always report having seen a few partridges there drinking. ”

“ Dined on fried ibex brain and home made bread to-night; and, being Sunday, a tin of greengage jam was broached.
Medisa,
January 19th, 1891.
Had a very long day in the mountains to the west of camp. We reached the water, marked on the War Office map, “Um Yessar,” [10] in about one hour from our camp. It is merely a hollow under an enormous boulder, but the water always keeps its level, and it is beautifully clear. One man only can reach down at a time, drawing the water in a wooden bowl. This well lies close to the Wadi, at the end of a magnificent cañon full of [27] monster rocks. ”

“ As Powney went out for ibex, I stayed about camp, and went for partridges to the water, but found nothing. Made a fresh oven. Powney saw no ibex.
Medisa,
February 6th, 1891.
Started early, and hunted the mountains in the direction of Kohila; but found the Wadi full of sheep instead of ibex. We made a mistake in leaving Kittar, as all the game seems to be there; it is quieter than the rest of the mountains. But we could not foresee that the Arabs would bring their sheep up here. [19] It was very hot and close all day, with a cloudy sky. ”

“ Having taken all my photographs and torn off a lump of fern, we set off home, and arrived hungry enough at 3 P.M. Powney [42] returned at dark, having killed a “she” ibex. We are unlucky in having, so far, killed four “shes” out of five. But it can’t be helped, as we have no other source for getting meat.
To-morrow we shift camp to our original position at Medisa. Powney will go round the mountain with the caravan, and I shall re-visit the falls, walking thence across the mountains, about fourteen miles, till I meet him again at the camp in the evening. ”

“ The Arabs were right, as a thunderstorm broke over us at bed-time last night. It lasted till this morning, and the lightning was very bright. We sat at our tent doors for a long time watching it playing around the mountains. The night was very hot and sultry, but there were only a few big drops of rain falling every now and again, and occasionally a heavy gust of wind. Rain is badly wanted here to fill up the wells, as there has been none for two years. The camels we sent to Kenneh on February 1st should be back by Monday with mails and provisions ”

“ There are lots of ants in camp, some nearly an inch long; so far they have not bitten any of us. Two little waterwagtails live here, and they are as tame as dogs. They are getting quite fat on the hundreds of flies.
Medisa,
January 18th, 1891.
Spent the morning in skinning the ibex head, and in making an oven, as our bread is finished; but we have lots of flour. I dug a hole in the sand and lined it with the flattest stones hereabouts, putting a big one at the bottom and a similar one as a lid at the top. The oven when finished was like a hat box let into the ground. ”

“ All my camels are ready for a start, and I long to be off, especially as I want to send the camels and waterskins back here for Powney.
[10] I was just getting into bed last night when a centipede about two and a half inches long crawled out. I secured him in a tumbler and counted his legs this morning. There were over one hundred on each side of his body. The mosquitoes here are very fierce and hungry, but one never sees them on the Nile itself,—they all seem to frequent the towns. An old fossil came here to-day and offered to take me two days into the desert to shoot wolves. ”

“ The whole place is choked with sand, and I soon got tired of digging in the sun. The desert was most dreary all to-day, nothing to relieve the monotony of the journey, and a camel goes so slowly, about two and a half miles an hour. I frequently got off and walked, leaving the caravan far behind.
CAMP AT KASR-JINN.
We see a lovely mirage every now and again. ”

“ However, we were right for the wind, and the dogs soon got on the scent of one of them; the other made off down wind, and escaped. The dogs were now gaining on their beast, and, after a while, brought it to bay on the side of a steep mountain. We hurried on, and, after a long bit of climbing without boots, eventually found ourselves at the top of a precipice, with the ibex at bay beyond, 150 yards off, on the side of the next mountain. ”

“ We had no trouble at Alexandria, and there is an excellent train service between Alexandria and Cairo. It seemed quite like being on the old G.N.R.
We have made great progress in getting our expedition together, purchasing stores, and telegraphing for camels to be ready at Kenneh. We have got the new War Office map of the country, with all the routes and distances marked. This will [2] simplify matters considerably. There is only one long distance without water, about sixty-five miles, which we hope to get over in four marches. ”

“ The north wind was like ice all day, and the fog of this morning [33] never quite cleared off. Lovely sunset this evening. We are getting short of meat, so Powney or I will have to go hunting to-morrow (Sunday) from necessity. ”

“ This we mixed with our old stock, and now have enough for ten days. We are on a fixed ration of food now, based on the supposition that we can reach Kenneh on February 15th. When the flour is all done we shall have to buy “dhurra” from our camel drivers, and grind it between two stones.
Wadi Munfia,
January 28th, 1891.
Struck camp early, and made a short march of three hours in a northerly direction. I went off, and hunted in the mountains [35] towards the Red Sea. Saw no ibex, so joined Powney in our new camp, which I found he had pitched in a snug corner at the foot of a steep cliff. ”

“ Having lunched, we set off again, still bearing north, and soon saw our Wadi far away below us, as it curled gradually round to the N.W. We were just going down a narrow cleft in the rock, about two yards wide. I was first, and my Arab close on my heels, when I suddenly saw, not above fifteen yards off, a fine old buck ibex. He had heard us, and was slowly making off. I snatched the rifle from the hands of the Arab; but before I could cram a cartridge in and get [20] a shot the old fellow had got round a corner of the cleft. ”

“ So we [17] climbed on, hoping to reach it in a few hours; but what was my surprise at suddenly coming upon this lovely waterfall before we had left camp an hour. Thus proving that in the map the cascade is put about six miles higher up the gorge than it really is. I shall chaff them about their map making when we get home. Having rested awhile, and filled the water-bottles, we proceeded up the ravine, which now widens considerably. ”

“ In about three quarters of an hour I came to the foot of the waterfall already described. Having rested awhile and had a drink I hunted about for a way over the cliff up the side of the fall. After some time, and a stiffish climb, I reached the top in safety, and sat down again close to the head of the cascade. ”

“ This, I explained, was easily done by means of stores carried on camels. I hoped the old boy was satisfied; but he said he would not let me go without leave from the Minister of the Interior at Cairo, and that I had better telegraph to the Sirdar to telegraph to the said Minister, who would in turn telegraph to him (the Mudir) , sanctioning my departure. So matters stand at present, and I am awaiting a telegram to let me start. If it does not come to-night I shall go and “draw” the Mudir again, if only to get some more of that excellent coffee. ”

“ Its vortex decreases in diameter downwards until, on the desert surface, it is perhaps two or three feet in diameter, whirling round with great velocity, and with an upward spiral. When it passes over loose sand it carries with it all movable particles. The whole thing, like a whipping top in form, rises and falls and moves about. ”