Jason Lee

“ Night drew on fast and no water nor grass. I could have easily overtaken the foremost part of the Company but chose to remain with Brothers Shepard and D. Lee and Mr. Abot and try to keep the trail after night should come on but it [was] impossible as we were in a country of wild sages which are so large that they impede the progress of the horses and also covered with Buffaloe paths which we sometimes mis- take for the trail even in daylight. Ten o'clock came to a dry creek as they call in this country and finding a little grass we concluded to encamp. ”

“ Only a small part of the buffaloe is considered good for food. When they fleece it as they term it they cut the skin on the back and skin down the sides far enough to turn out the shoulder and then take the flesh off the ribs which with the tongue, the heart, the marrow bones and the hump ribs is all they use when meat is plenty. Arrived in camp just before sunset.
Sat. 24. This morning forded the south fork of the Platte without accident except one man lost his gun. We have marched six days on the Platte. ”

“ We did not travel far before we struck a trail which we took for granted was ours and followed it.
Having proceeded far enough to reach a certain creek we crossed and not finding it caused me to believe what I had before feared: that we were following Wm. Subletted trail who we were sure was not far behind us.
The different portions of the prairie so much resemble each other that it is impossible for those who [are] not acquainted with them not to be deceived by them. ”

“ Roasted Buffaloe meat and poor water made our rich repast and I am persuaded that none even in New England eat a more palatable or wholesome meal. We feel not want of bread and I am more healthy than I have been for some years. Came to camp and when we learned that 12 o'clock was the hour for starting, Mr. Walker and myself saddled two of [the] ablest horses and went for the one we left and found [him] about six miles distant within 15 rods of where we left him and drove him into camp. Think we shall save him if we reach Rendevous soon. ”

“ Arrived before dinner opposite the red Butes which is the point where we leave the old Platte, having been on its waters 21 days. The land on this Fork is broken and consists of sandy plains and sand hills and rugged moun- tains totally unfit I think for cultivation. A few willows some Buffaloe bushes and some cotton trees a few scrub [b] y pine and cedar are all the timber I have seen.
Mon. June 9. Yesterday decamped soon after sunrise and made one long march and encamped on a little brook where we found good grass but short. ”

“ Two hunters went out on the llth and we have heard nothing from them since. What has become of them we cannot tell but think they are lost or the Indians have found them. We are extremely anxious to know their fate but have no means of ascertaining. Was on guard the first watch.
I think this River is rightly named for the Prairies on both sides of it are sand producing only a little sage and a few spires of grass and a few trees and willow bushes occasionally on the bottoms. The horses are failing fast for want of food more than through excess of labour though that is very severe. ”

“ We are encamped opposite a large rock which has the appearance at a distance of an old castle. From the looks of it not considering the deception of the level prairie and the size I should think it half a m. distant but Professor Nutall [Nuttall] has been out and says it is at least 5 m. The Thermometer stands at 202 in boiling water.
Thurs. 29 Have seen plenty of buffaloe to-day but the hunters did not go out having food enough in camp. It is now 12 o'clock and we are preparing dinner nearly opposite what is called the Chimney 1 and about 2 m. ”

“ It is say a mile wide very shallow swift current and very turbid indeed so that when the wind blows it has the appearance of sand it is almost thick with sand if you leave it a short time in a vessel the bottom will be covered with it. Its bed is sand and very soft. The country along the shores is as beautiful as I ever saw. The bottom land is say from 3 to 5 m. wide skirted with sand hills of all heights up to 50 or 60 or 100 ft. Crossed the hills and in a few hours reached the North Fork of the Platte. Saw no buffaloe to day. ”

“ Elk is not considered good meat except very fat. Through the goodness and mercy of God we have had plenty. O that our gratitude may keep pace with his mercies. Bless the Lord I think I do feel thankful for his goodness to me. Glory to God in the highest he feeds me both with corporeal and with spiritual food. Amen. Inste [a] d of taking a due west course as we should have done we followed the River by consequence lost our A. M. march.
Thirs. June 12. Went out with the hunters this morning. They killed a Buffaloe and caught a young Antelope and a Buffalo calf. ”

“ This seems more like Sabbath than any we have passed since we left the settlements. The rain prevents the men from being out hallooing cursing and shooting. Can it be that such men believe that the day will come when the Omnipotent Jehovah "will judge all men in righteousness by that Man whom He hath ordained whereof He hath given assurance unto all men, in that He hath raised him from the dead?" I have no dought that many are complete Infidels who have taken but very little thought on the subject. ”

“ May that time soon come when we shall enjoy the privileges of God's house on the western decline of the Rocky Mountains. I already long to hear from my dear friends in the east but am doomed to wait many long months before I can know anything of what is transpiring among those I love. We have very little pros- pect of doing any good among those with [whom] we jour- ney. Our time while in Camp being almost entirely taken up in taking care of our things horses cooking &c. ”

“ Saw at least thousands of Buffaloe to day some were killed by the men they are very good if fat. I think pref- erable to beef. The bottom lands along the river are literally black with them for miles. We killed our cow this morning before we saw the Buffaloe and paid the Capt. what we owed him and let him have all except what we wanted ourselves.
May 20. Some Pawnees Loup Indians came to camp. Their camp is a day and a half march on the opposite side. ”

“ Indians came into camp this morning were very friendly but we strongly suspect that they stole the horses that were lost.
Wednesday, May 14. Encamped on a branch of the Blue a large Brook clear good water.
Capt. Thing took a lunar observation and found we were 97 7' West from Greenwich London.
We decamp about j/2 past 7 o'clock stop about 2 hours at noon and camp about y 2 past 6. Make nearly 50 m. per day which is as much as the horses can endure for they are heavily loaded and the grass for two or three days has been poor. ”

“ A few feet distant is a hole of an inch in diameter where the atmosphere strongly impregnated with sulphur issues in a manner that strongly resembles respiration and with such force as to be heard several rods and is quite warm. ”

“ We call this Rendevous or the place where all the Com- panies in the Mountains or in this section of them have fixed upon to meet for the transaction of business.
Some of the companies have not come in, yet most of them are a mile above us on the same creek. They threatened that when we came they would give them Missionaries "hell" and Capt. W. informed us and advised us to be on our guard and give them no offense and if molested to show no symptoms of fear and if difficulty did arise we might depend upon his aid for he never forsook any one who had put himself under his protection. ”

“ Though we have but little and no bread in fact nothing but Buffaloe meat and a little tea and coffee yet we suffer no in- convenience whatever by not having the variety we were wont to have formerly but I think derive benefit from it. There are many things which men accustom themselves to use which [are] deleterious.
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Wednes. June 18. I o'clock P. M. Though we have come 10 m. yet we have not found Rendevous nor the Capt. Have found a bottom where the grass is a little better. The plains are so dry that the dust rises in clouds where horses pass and makes very disagreeable traveling. ”

“ Left Bear R. and pursued a north course over the hills and soon reached a small prairie, crossed some small streams or brooks. Passed Boniville's Camp. He is making meat. The country presents many volcanic appear- ances all the stone appear to have been burned. The Company killed a large griz [z] ly bear. I think there were twenty guns fired but know not how many balls hit him. They are a very hard creature to kill. ”

“ They were two Pawnees and made signs that their party was just behind us and would overtake us tomorrow but they will not if we can avoid it for the Capt. intends to make a forced march to keep ahead of them. W^e are on the bank of the Platte waiting about an hour to bait the horses and get a bite of dinner. The Pawnees are generally counted a treacherous tribe and the traders fear such more than those who are decidedly hostile because when they pretend friend- ship they only wait an opportunity to betray. ”

“ Started this morning at 7 o'clock. Made a severe march of 9 hours from the Blue to the Platte. Left the main Blue on the left hand, crossed a small branch or brook and having left the trail on the right we came by compass N. W. till we found the trail of Mr. Wm. Sublet after marching say 15 m. We then took nearly a W. course soon found the old waggon trail saw some small sand Hills a mile distant and as we approached them saw the timber on the banks of Platte. Came a few m. up and encamped the first place where we could find good grass and wood. Mr. Walker caught a cat fish. ”

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men could find enough to subsist on until they overtook the Com. Their report was that he died and they buried him but his bones and blanket were found a 100 mi. from the place they said he had died and near the Bluff. ”

“ This stream is generally very difficult to cross, it being very rapid. Some of Sublett's men who are building a Trading Fort a little distance came to us they are planting corn. Three of our party Free Trapers left us here with the intention to catch Beaver in the Black Hills and thus they expose themselves their lives yea they run greater risks for a few Beaver skins than we do to save souls and yet some who call themselves Christians "tell it not in Gath" would have persuaded us to abandon our enterprize because of the danger
130 JASON LEE
which attended it. ”

“ Encamped on Mud- dy Creek. Some of the men caught some fine trout. This being the 4th of July the men must needs show their "Inde- pendance" and such another drunken crazy hooting quarrel
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ing fighting frolic I seldom witnessed. Yes, even in this western world ardent spirits is the bane of poor infatuated men. Here met Mr. Bonivill's 1 company on their way to St. Louis.
Sat. July 5, 1834. Passed along the base of some very high Mountains, say 300 ft. high of a red hue. Crossed over to Bear River and came down it a few miles and camped. ”