James W. Nesmith

“ We came to Blue River, made a raft, on which we placed our saddles, blankets, guns, pistols, and clothes, then swam over by the raft, and went back and swam the mules. Packed up and took out on the prairie to the dividing ridge between the Republican fork of the Kansas and Blue River, traveled up the ridge about ten miles, and came onto Blue River and camped at night. Saw no buffalo. Saw five elk and one Indian. Williams shot at one of the elk and missed it. Mister Indian ran off like the devil, leading two horses and riding another. ”

“ When within about 200 yards, he discovered us, and after taking a most deliberate survey of our numbers, and seeming to weigh the chances like a general, he finally took to his heels, and we in hot pursuit. After running about half a mile, Captain Gantt came up and fired two pistols, which took effect in his fore shoulder. By this time I came up, and fired a rifle, the ball of which struck him in the small of the back and passed under his back bone, after which a Cherokee Indian fired a pistol and carbine. ”

“ Saturday, July 29.—Applegate's company leaves the rock this morning. Our little company remains at its first camp. Captain Cooper assumes command of the company. We spend the day in drying meat, cleaning up our wet firearms, making moccasins, etc. Several of our men are out hunting; others came in this evening, and report that the buffalo are all on the move in the direction of the Yellowstone River. Some hunters arrive at our camp to-night, who belong to the other company, bringing but little meat. I mount guard as private tonight for the first time on the trip. ”

“ Sweet Water River runs by the foot of it about fifty yards distant, and a great many high mountains and peaks are in the neighborhood. The distance from Sweet Water to Platte by road is about forty-three miles. Wood and water scarce. Plenty of salt water and mountain sage and chamisso, [4] which answers as a substitute for wood. In fact, salt lakes and salt springs may be found all through this country.
Monday, July 31.—Left the encampment near Independence Rock about 11:00 o'clock. Came up to Martin's company about 2:00 o'clock, and found some very sick men in the company. ”

“ Eight or ten of us ascend to the top of the mound from whence the shaft or column of clay and sand ascends about 150 feet above the mound, which is about 200 feet high, making 350 feet above the level of the plains, and one of the greatest curiosities I have ever seen in the West, and can be seen distinctly thirty miles on the plains. ”

“ They lay at Independence Rock, our company having split. Colonel Martin, with most of the wagons, has gone ahead. Our wagon and some others of his company fell in with some deserters from Applegate's company, making in all nineteen wagons. All the rest of the company ahead. Applegate's camp on Sweet Water at the rock, and our company just below. The Oregon emigrating company has been strangely divided, and no doubt the dividend will be again divided. The materials it is formed of can not be controlled. ”

“ Friday, July 21.—Left Squaw Butte Creek, traveled fifteen miles and camped on the Platte. I mount as sergeant of the guard.
Saturday, July 22.—Trailed six miles and camped on the Platte about noon, and endeavored to find a ford. Several men sick in camp, afflicted with a kind of fever. The company discontented and strong symptoms of mutiny. Some anxious to travel faster, some slower, some want to cross the river here, some want to go ahead, and others want to go any way but the right way. This will always be the difficulty with heterogeneous masses of emigrants crossing these plains. ”

“ By this time he received seven balls, from pistols, principally, and I was ready with my rifle loaded for another shot, but Captain Gantt advised me not to fire, as he would soon die. He had now stopped, and soon began to reel, and fell. He proved to be one of the male kind, about eight years old. We soon flayed him, and packed our horses and started for the company, which we overtook in about five miles, all highly satisfied with our exploit. Trailed about ten miles and encamped at a small grove of timber South of the trail and one and a half miles North of Blue River. ”

“ While every man's will is his law, and lets him act or do as he pleases, he will always find friends to support him. In order to obviate this difficulty and maintain good order in large companies, the presence of military force, and a declaration of martial law is highly necessary. Then emigrants will travel in peace, harmony and good order. ”

“ Passed some red bluffs, and in some places red pulverized earth, resembling vermillion, covered the ground. Traveled about twenty miles. Camped on Big Rock Creek, having passed Deer Creek during the day. Ford on guard. An alarm at night originated in some very smart young men firing their guns near the camp after dark, and for so doing were put under guard by order of Colonel Martin. They raised a row with the guard, and like to have made a serious matter of it, and as it was, they cocked their rifles and threatened to shoot. ”

“ In California, two species of the plant cover much of the dry area with a dense undergrowth, and are called locally chamisal. The plants ordinarily grow in scattered clumps, and are from four to eight feet high. ”

“ Saturday, July 8.—The company traveled up the north fork about eighteen miles. Myself and three others went back on the plains to hunt some lost men belonging to our company. Found them in about seven miles and overtook the company at noon. Roads in some places rather sandy. Saw no buffalo to-day except a few on the north side of the river. ”