Overton Johnson and William H. Winter

“ As the storm when it walks upon the mountains, and treads down the pines, so terrible are the warriors of the Great Chief, when they come upon their foes. Beware then, lest ye make him angry. Think before you break the pipe, which we have smoked together in friendship. Think well before you violate the covenant you have made with me and with my people, and to which we have called the Great Spirits to witness. Talk to your young men; counsel them that are foolish; tell them that we are mighty, and terrible in war. ”

“ As it runs over the wide prospect, it peoples it with thousands and thousands of busy inhabitants, sees every plain checkered with fields, and even the steep and rugged Mountain-side, made to yield to the hand of the husbandman; every where, houses, gardens, orchards, and vinyards, scattered in countless multitudes, over hill and valley; flocks and herds feeding, on every hand; the broad highways coursing the valley, or winding away over the hills, thronged with a busy concourse, all moving hurriedly to and fro, engaged in the avocations of a civilized life ”

“ The remaining portion of the Territory of Oregon—the Eastern portion—we have sufficiently noticed, in passing through it. Very much the largest portion of Eastern Oregon, is at present, and must continue for a great number of years to be, comparatively valueless. It is a desert, so rugged, so dreary, and so exceedingly sterile, that it cannot, until ages upon ages have melted its mountains; until the winds, and floods, and changes of thousands and thousands of years, shall have crumbled into dust, its rocks, and its sands; yield anything worthy of consideration, to the support of human life. ”

“ The scenery in Oregon, is varied, romantic, picturesque, and grand. There is certainly nothing to equal it, in North America, East of the Rocky Mountains; and, although much has been said of the beauty and grandeur of the scenery of Switzerland, we doubt if any thing can be there found to equal it; taking into view, the rich, extensive, and flowery plains, surrounded by tall and heavy forests, of ever-green, watered by many large and living streams, flowing sometimes smooth and geneile, then rapid, and again precipitating, in broad, and heavy sheets, down immense perpendicular Falls. ”

“ But, looking beyond the snow capped barrier, which bounds the vision, to the East, the mind labors in vain to read, from the character of such dreary regions, what will be the future destiny of those wilds and wastes. Long may the lover of romantic scenes and adventures, find in them an ample scope for all his inclinations. Long may the Poet and writer of fiction, undetected, rear there, the fabricks of their dreams, and people the green mountain-girt Oasis of those unexplored solitudes, with the gallant, lovely, and happy creatures of their imaginations. ”

“ It is strange, that men so surrounded, on every hand, with danger, and at the same time perfectly conscious of their situation, should allow little trivial differences of opinion, to separate them; exposing their lives on account of a mere whim, which, at most, does to profess any benefit, worthy of consideration. But is so here. If a company is strong and united, there is no security that it will long continue so; if it is weak to-day, it is no reason that it will not be weaker to-mor-row. ”

“ They are high, dry, rolling, mountainous, and well watered with the purest springs and streams; and come the wind from whatever point it may, it must ever be free from miasma and disease, as it always comes, either from snow clad mountains or passes over the pure and untainted waves of the briny Ocean. ”

“ This is, perhaps, the most rugged, desert, and dreary country, between the Western borders of the United States, and the shores of the Pacific. It is nothing else, than a wild, rocky, barren wilderness, of wrecked and ruined Nature; a vast field of volcanic desolation. Beyond the Mountains, which rise on the South of this point, is the great Salt Lake. Eighty-eight miles below the crossing of Snake River, we crossed two small branches of hot water. ”

“ Thirty-nine miles farther down, we saw, on the North side of the River, two very large Springs, bursting midway from the lofty precipices, rushing down like rivers, and foaming along over the piles of rock. They looked, at a distance, like banks of snow resting on the cliffs. Seventeen miles below these Springs, are the Salmon Falls. These Falls are not perpendicular, except in one or two small shoots, on the North side. The great body of the water, runs down an inclination of not more than twenty-five feet in three hundred yards. ”

“ It will, also, be of the utmost importance, to emigrants, who may be overtaken, by the rainy season; as it is seldom, if ever, obstructed by the snows, which immediately after the commencement of the rains, cover all the mountains; blocking up every other way, to such a degree, that it is extremely hazardous to attempt them. This little Valley of verdure and flowers, looks out, from its Eastern exremity, upon an arid desert, over which, in the vast scope which the eye embraces, nothing presents, save huge piles and masses of dark rock, and thirsty sands. ”

“ The night was quite cold; but as we were in a deep sink, at the source of one of these Mountain streams, we though there would be little danger of being seen, and built up a large fire; by which we slept very comfortably; having, before going to rest, tied our animals on the grass. In the morning we ascended to the summit, to ascertain what lay beyond it, and look over the best probable field for game. Having gained it, we saw an extensive plain, through which, at a great distance, there was a River flowing, which we supposed to be the North Fork of the Platte. ”

“ The morning had been fair, and we were moving slowly along through the middle of one of the wide prairies, without noticing the cloud which had been gathering in the North, until its thunders awoke us from our dreaming. The breeze, which before had scarcely stirred the grass upon the plain, grown into a gale, now roared over the hills. ”

“ We heard of an instance, where two men, who were descending the Columbia River in a canoe, landed, for some purpose, at an Indian village; and while on shore, an Indian came up to one of the men, with a dead snake in his hands, which he was pleased to draw several times across the white man's face. There are those who would not have borne such an insult tamely, but it would have been dangerous to have resented. They have frequently amused themselves, by brandishing their arms in people's faces, or presenting them with their drawn bows. ”

“ Much of this portion of California, which is far superior to any other, is taken up by mountains, or lands otherwise unfit for cultivation; whereas, in the Mississippi Valley, the whole might be brought into one vast, fruitful, and unbroken field. From this reason, the Mississippi Valley must always be the most productive, and wealthy country. But on account of the delightful mildness, and uniformity of the climate of California; it will forever be, the most healthy and happy country. ”

“ And through this whole region of country, many of the hills and mountains, will furnish the best, and healthiest pastures for sheep; and there cannot be a doubt, but that hundreds of thousands of these useful animals, can be kept in the finest condition, between the Cascade Mountains and the Pacific; to furnish the factories that are destined to rise up at no far distant day, in this great world of water power, with heavy fleeces of the finest wool. ”

“ Imagination, peering into the far future, beholds enthroned upon an hundred heights, the lordly mansions of the opulent, surrounded with gardens, teeming with fruits and flowers; with parks, and pools, and groves of ornamental trees; and far up the sides of the surrounding mountains, the herdsmen's and the shepherd's humble cottages repose, in sweet and solitary quiet, deep buried amid the mountain pines. ”

“ On the 30th of May, we crossed the Brule River, at the village of the unfriendly Indians. The women and children had fled from their huts, as soon as they became apprised of our approach; and here and there on the hills around, we could see them couched among the sage. They knew that we were Americans, and the men, standing around in groups, regarded us with angry, and sullen countenances. But under the circumstances, they were more in fear than we were, and appeared without their arms. ”

“ In the climate of Western Oregon, we find one of the principal advantages which this country, together with the whole Western coast of the Continent, possesses over those portions laying East of the great mountain range, which, extending from within the Arctic circle, along the whole extent of North and South America, to Cape Horn, divides the Continent into two Grand Divisions, different, not only in their geographical features, but also in climate and vegetation. The climate of Western Oregon is milder by several degrees, than it is between the same parallels of latitude in the States. ”

“ Those who have come into the country, have been industrious, and improvements have gone rapidly on. Quite a considerable poriton of the Willamette Valley, has already been brought into cultivation, and there is, after supplying the inhabitants, and emigration, annually, several thousand bushels of surplus wheat. New farms are being opened daily, and the cabin of the bold and enterprising pioneer, may be seen rising on many a verdant hill, or nestled away in the quiet seclusion of many a flowery nook ”

“ But no country of which we have any knowledge, is so fitted by nature to become one great manufacturing region, as the territory of Oregon. It has every where, over it, an abundance of never failing water power, sufficient to propel machinery of any kind and to any amount; and as we have already said, all parts of the territory are suitable for raising the finest sheep, (not excepting the best ever reared in Spain,) and over this country sufficient numbers can and will be raised, to keep the numerous and extensive factories in constant operation. ”

“ Away to the South, the peering summits of some lofty chain, are dimly drawn upon the sky. To the West, you hear the distant Ocean's sullen roar, as its waves, with crash tremendous, break upon its rock bound shores. ”

“ The trip, the pure Mountain air, and the rough and wholesome manner of living, have already restored many who were before feeble and afflicted; to health, strength, and
activity; and we are convinced they are better remedies for constitutional or pulmonary diseases, than all the Patent Medicines and learned prescriptions, with which the public have ever been gulled. Having passed through the gap, we traveled across the valley of Sweet Water, and to the trail of the Emigrants, and saw, from its size, that all the companies had passed. ”

“ Water power is not wanting in the Valley of Rogue's River. A few miles below the California trail, the River appears to enter a Canion, and the Mountains along the coast are high and rugged; so as to prevent advantageous communication with the Sea-board. The Indians who inhabit this Valley are numerous, and almost in a state of nature. They are of small stature; but well proportioned—slender, active, and sensible. They have never had any intercourse, of consequence, with the whites, and have, therefore, but few of the articles manufactured by a civilized people. ”

“ If horses are taken with the expectation of having them to do constant service, the Indian horses had better be obtained, if possible; for there are but very few horses that have been raised in the United States, that will not fail to reach the settlements in Oregon or California, if constant service is required of them.
The greatest attention should be paid to all animals that are taken on this journey: they should never be made to perform any work that is not absolutely necessary, and they should always have water and grass when they require it, if it can possibly be obtained. ”

“ Every thing was calculated to inspire the mind with feelings of no common kind. He alone, who for the first time stands upon the deck of some tall ship, whose sails are spread before the breeze, and whose foaming prow looks steadily towards some distant clime, when for the first time he sees the loved shores of his native land sink into the wave, and the blue waters of the treacherous deep gather around him, may appreciate the sensations which awakened in our hearts, when here we reflected upon where we were, and what we had undertaken: when the past ”

“ In respect to the quantity, every one should make a calculation, it is important to take into consideration, the fact, that the appetite is almost universally increased by traveling. It is peculiarly so on the way across the Rocky Mountains. The rough manner of living, which it is necessary for the traveler to adopt, together with the purity of the atmosphere, the constant and wholesome exercise, and the various scenes and incidents dully presented, which tend to divert the mind, all have a great tendency to promote uncommon good health, and consequently, uncommon good appetites. ”

“ On the 1st of August, we saw arise from the horizon, like distant clouds, the snow crested summits of the Wind River Mountains. They are several miles North of the Grand Pass, and are on of the highest portions of the Rocky Mountain range. On the 2nd, we made another hunting party, and proceeded again across the Mountain, on the South. After having gone about thirty miles from the trail, we saw a large band of Buffaloes; but, as it was late in the evening, we though it best not to disturb them before morning. When morning came, not a buffalo could be seen upon the plain. ”

“ The general character of the country is similar to that on the South, excepting that its valleys are not so large, and the mountainous and hilly portions, occupy a greater extent. Like the Valley of Willammette, the Valleys on the North side of the Columbia, are diversified with forest and plain. There is little or no difference in the soil, and the grass is equally fine. On the streams that empty into the Columbia, and their tributaries, there are many Falls and Cascades; which afford excellent sites for machinery, to an almost unlimited extent. ”

“ A Country so barren, as that through which they were compelled to travel, afforded, neither game, nor food of any kind, except that upon which the few miserable and beast like Indians, who inhabit that region, subsist–lizzards, crickets, ants, and the like—and which would, of course, be revolting to the palate of any other people, unless in the very extremity of starvation. ”

“ There is, however, one drawback to the mild, otherwise pleasant winters, over a large portion of the countries we have seen and described; on the western shores of our continent: which is, the great amount of dark, cloudy, and rainy weather, through most of the winter season. The rains, however, as it has already been seen, do not generally fall in heavy showers, but are, mostly, gentle and light, and often, nothing more than heavy mist. We are inclined to believe, that little if any more water falls there, in the winter, than falls in most parts of the Mississippi Valley ”