“ Shortly after entering the bush, by turning aside to the left a few yards, a glimpse may be had of a pretty little waterfall, pretty in itself, but which derives its main beauty from its surroundings, for the little stream comes tumbling down the mountain side overshadowed by embowering trees, whilst ferns of innumerable form and shade deck the banks with a mantle of green. It is a temptation to linger in such a spot, but the goal is afar. ”

“ But now, alas, fire and the axe have wrought havoc with sylvan beauty, and the slopes of Pine Hill and Mount Cargill now furnish sites for the home of many an industrious settler, which is doubtless some compensation for the loss of beauty they have sustained. Even the small patches and clumps of bush which remain have suffered much from the inroads of vagrant cattle, so that the side of the hill next to Dunedin at least, which was once the happy hunting ground of the fern collector, is now, in his eyes at least, a desecrated paradise. ”

“ The strong arms of the second occupants have denuded the hill sides of their bush, and the bare surface is exposed to view, a comfortable homestead or cottage dotting the surface here and there, everything indicating peace and comfort. Unless the thought arises, How can people make a living out of such land as this? But be satisfied, critical visitor, many have on this same seemingly and really wild spot thriven and become prosperous. ”

“ A little bend may show some laughing children disporting themselves in the shallow stream, and not far from them a waiting, watchful angler plying his art over some pool, where he knows the speckled trout love to congregate, while, as a mantle of green overhanging them, the native bush spreads its curious limbs and varied foliage to shelter from the too piercing rays of the mid-day sun. ”

“ And how much more difficult our task to describe the sempiternal beauties of this favoured locality?
Immediately beneath on the left the placid waters of the harbour lie sleeping in drowsiness, sinuously wending their course along through and among sandbanks and rocky isles, bluff headlands and receding bays, until absorbed in the great Pacific they cease to be recognised. Away to the right the majestic ocean spreads, its limitless bosom wide open to the gaze, so that far as the eye can reach any object on its surface can be descried. ”

“ One of the pleasantest drives in the neighbourhood of Dunedin is that down the Peninsula. Let us suppose we are off in a tip-top turn out from one of the best livery stables in Dunedin, spanking horses, a splendid drag, exhilarating atmosphere, roads first-class, spirits up to the highest pitch that health, choice company, glorious scenery, and a determination to be happy, could raise them to, for anyone would be a moody individual indeed, who refused to be satisfied in such circumstances. ”

“ We need not linger on this theme, as our mission is to view the wild grandeur of this river, towards which the steamer steadily bears us. In front rises a bluff—a bold projecting rock, which seems to arrest the further progress of the river, as, in days long past, it doubtless did, but now, after a long struggle, it has had to succumb and allow the water to make its way over its hard breast, wearing it down, until now the river course is deep enough to float half a dozen of the largest ships in the world. ”

“ Abruptly rising again over the Tomahawk ridge with its reefs lying half a mile out in the ocean, the homes of a number of well-to-do old settlers may be seen scattered on the hills and valleys around. Then again dropping down gently to sea level in another valley, an uphill pinch has to be tackled, which, on being accomplished, we now reach the top of the cliff with a sheer face of 800 feet, and at whose base the waters are perpetually surging and lashing, slowly but gradually undermining the solid wall which has resisted and will for centuries continue to resist their attacks. ”

“ For a quiet walk, when time presses not, the visitor to Dunedin could not do better than take the tram-car down to Dundas street and there alighting wend his way across the Leith and up to the Northern Cemetery grounds. To a spot like this, the attractions are very varied in character. Some frequent it to show their lasting devotedness to those who have gone before, others simply to read the records of the past and admire the artistic skill displayed in the attempts to perpetuate the memories of very many who formerly acted their part on this busy stage. ”

“ For anyone who enjoys a good long walk, there is no more pleasurable excursion in the neighbourhood of Dunedin, for in the romantic valley of the Silverstream we find a fair wilderness where mountain, wood and stream combine to form picture after picture to delight the eye. ”

“ H. J. Walter, and is known as the Queen's Drive, winds along the face of the hills above the town and from this vantage ground many of the finest views of Dunedin are obtained. As the stranger first strolls or drives leisurely along its meandering course new beauties are continually displayed. There is a sameness in the prospect, and yet it is never the same. The town is always seen nestling below, with the lake-like harbour and the sunny slopes of the Peninsula beyond; but each point of view presents these features in some new aspect. ”

“ Leaving the sacred acre, a pleasant and very enjoyable walk can be had through the Town Belt at the present time, the native manuka being in full bloom, filling the air with delicious perfume, regaling the senses with a profusion of delights. ”

“ To learn what the soil and climate are capable of doing in the way of garden produce, it is only needful to take a stroll into the suburbs in any direction, when, behind the close-clipped hedges—of hawthorn, laurel, macrocarpa, or holly—screening many neat dwellings, trim, well-kept gardens will be seen to present, from early spring to latest autumn, a bright display of those flowering plants and shrubs proper to the season. ”

“ We therefore take the road to the centre of the Peninsula, and pass around groves and glens, where the fancy can rove at its own sweet pleasure, and the eye be delighted with glimpses of Nature in her most attractive garb, almost as she existed when the Pakeha first intruded on her solitude. ”

“ Signal Hill rises up beyond Opoho, and as the ascent is easy, and the road in fair condition, its summit can easily be reached, and a magnificent view of land and water, hill and dale, be obtained. But if the energies have been sufficiently taxed, turn to the left, and soon the North East Valley is reached, the spot in which most of the early settlers made their first suburban selection, and which is now constituted a borough of the same name. ”

“ About half a mile further on, the road, which has all this time been ascending, reaches the top of the ridge and begins to descend into the Taieri Plain. We need not dwell on the fair prospects spread before us at various points along the route, as they have probably been already visited in some other excursion; but their beauty never palls, though reiterated attempts at description would doubtless do so. As we continue our descent we notice a large water-race, which comes winding round the face of the hill, and diving underneath the road, stretches away in the direction of Dunedin. ”

“ Lot's wife was turned into a pillar of salt because she looked behind her at the city which she had left, but no such risk is incurred by looking back from the peninsula hills on the fair city of Dunedin. And perhaps from this point of view she is seen in her widest extent if not in her best display. Looked at from almost any point, however, the remark of inhabitants of Old Edinburgh regarding their fair city, that "she's a bonny toon," holds good.
The city itself with all its surroundings can hardly be surpassed anywhere for exceeding beauty. ”

“ Nature's lap has been filled to overflowing with gems of rarest loveliness, and is it to be wondered at that amid scenes like these the goddess of poetry should have enwrapped so many of her favourites in the mantle of her genius? Even prosaic individuals could hardly fail to draw inspiration from such abundant resources. The fact has been somewhere recorded that the rhymester who first felt the afflatus was a resident here; at all events volumes of poetry have issued from the Dunedin press, indited by local celebrities. ”

“ The foreground is very different from anything seen from Flagstaff, as at the feet of the spectator lies a large tract of still comparatively unbroken forest which covers the slope of the mountain down to the head waters of the Leith and Waitati streams. The pedestrian in returning may clamber down to the Blueskin Road, or, if more adventurous still, find his way into the Valley of the Leith; but the more prudent course would be to return by the way he came, enjoying as he does so the prospect of the fair city of Dunedin from the many favourable points of view passed in the descent. ”

“ Nearer at hand the Wangaloa stream empties itself into the sea, and still carrying the eye northward, Quoin Point and the Tokomairiro River, with its small island rock, can be descried, and passing Akatore we see the Taieri Mouth, which is the limit of our journey. Having arrived at the south bank of the river, whilst the horses are having a spell, the man in charge of the punt, who is one of the oldest residents in the Province, will convey us safely across to the opposite side for a trifle, and, if inclined to listen, will tell some reminiscences of the past, interesting in the extreme. ”

“ This Valley, forty years ago, was a dense forest. There was not a single acre of clear ground throughout its length and breadth, so that judging from this fact alone, the mighty change which has passed over the scene may, to some extent, be realized. The clearance has not been effected without great labour and considerable cost. Add to this the fact that a large number of the early settlers were as little acquainted with bush work and tree felling as dwellers in town usually are, and the traveller may form some idea of the magnitude of the labour involved. ”

“ Clair, the favourite and health-giving resort of Dunedin citizens when holidays present the opportunity. Not being a very warlike race, and little up in big guns—we are flattered by the high encomiums bestowed on the three fortifications erected along the beach to defend the city from any would-be blackmailer. The visitor can leisurely inspect the St Clair Thunderer, proceed quietly along the sands, provided the tide permits, and inhale the healthful ozone, which the not always balmy breezes waft in towards the passer by, and renew or revive fading energies. ”

“ The lover of such fair scenes will linger long revelling in the grand panorama by which he is encircled. But the descent must be made, so choosing that by way of the Halfway Bush and keeping well to the right along the leading spur, he rapidly descends the grassy slopes till he joins the North Taieri road near Ashburn Hall, whence by the Halfway Bush and Roslyn he makes his way back to town, tired probably, but certainly pleased with his excursion. ”

“ After a short rest on some grassy knoll the upward way is resumed, and keeping well to the right and circling round the hill top to avoid encountering some rough stony ground, the summit is reached by an easy climb. A glorious prospect over hill, dale, and ocean is the reward. To the northward the prospect is limited by Swampy Hill and Mount Cargill, but turning to the eastward an extensive view is obtained of the lower lying hills about Dunedin and over the Otago Peninsula, with the wide Pacific stretching away beyond. ”

“ The inspection of this industry is not our object, so we embark on board the little steam launch, and gliding gently down with the stream we pass the old Maori Kaik, whose inhabitants have sadly diminished in numbers, and at a sudden bend, where the Waihola, Waipori, and Taieri streams are confluent, we pass beneath the East Taieri bridge, and gain the wide basin of the tidal reaches of the river. ”

“ Here the tram-car will convey the passenger up the Valley to the old Port Chalmers road, and on the ride, both up and down, some nice scenic views will be obtained, the murmuring brook and the crested mount alike demanding a share of admiration.
Some of our prominent citizens have elected the Valley as the place of their abode, and have erected handsome mansions, with tastefully laid out gardens and orchards. ”

“ Returning to the track and climbing steadily upwards, only stopping now and again ostensibly to admire some fairy moss, lovely fern, or other sylvan beauty, but possibly really to gain a few minutes breathing space, the climber at length emerges on the open land beyond. ”