George Benson

“ Above the entrance is the figure of an archbishop seated, holding a model of the western front in his hands, and on either side are mailed figures with shields of a Percy and a Vavasour, having blocks of wood and stone which signify the nature of their gifts to the building. The aisles are divided into seven bays by buttresses which have a canopied niche with figure and lofty pinnacles and which support the flying buttresses to the nave roof, giving an effect to the whole composition of great stability and endurance. The choir and Lady Chapel are a continuation of the nave design. ”

“ Within the walls, and well seen from the rampart walk, are red-tiled roofs intermingled with more modern slated buildings. Amidst these rise prominently, here and there, the spires and towers of the churches, notably the broad pre-Conquest tower of St. Mary, Bishophill Junior; the tower of St. Michael’s, Ousegate, from which the Curfew is rung nightly, and the graceful octagonal tower of All Saints, Pavement, which, in the days when York was surrounded by forests, held a lamp to direct pilgrims through the pathways to the city.
York is a city of churches. ”

“ The military architecture of York, whilst giving an idea of strength and power to the city, adds greatly to its picturesqueness. The line of embattled walls is agreeably broken by buttresses and mural towers, whilst the stately gatehouses set along the line of fortification give a sense of dignity, at the same time reflecting the sturdy independence of the men of York. ”

“ A walled-in city offers great attractions to the student of history, who is desirous of understanding mediaeval ways and methods, for although documents and quaint pictures may give a fair idea, it is the walls, gates, churches, and houses that lend the necessary vividness and reality. Other once-fortified cities have destroyed their walls as being useless, and those at York have from time to time barely escaped destruction. ”

“ The choir was fired by a lunatic in 1829, and the nave was destroyed by fire in 1840 owing to the carelessness of a workman. The central tower, fortunately, proved a barrier to the flames on both occasions by preventing their spreading to the other part of the building.
The Minster is generally entered by the south transept. Spaciousness is the leading feature within. The great dimensions of the transepts with the lofty lantern in the centre and the “Five Sisters” at the northern end, filled in with ancient brownish-green glass, combine to make this the finest internal view. ”

“ Twenty-two of the ancient churches exist.
We may well imagine that the Castle Keep, known as Clifford’s Tower, still keeps watch and ward over the city: opposite stands the mound of the other castle—the old Baile—which the Conqueror built in order to terrify the men of York. The triple-towered minster of St. Peter rises high above all else, and is best seen from the stretch of walls from Bootham to Monk Bar. The walk along the walls is one of the great attractions of York.
The old entrance to York from the south was Micklegate Bar. ”

“ During the siege of York in the time of the Great Civil War, one Sunday the Parliamentarians having laid a mine, blew up the tower and entered the grounds. The Royalists sent out a body of men by the Watergate and up Marygate to the ruined tower. Those inside were thus caught and were compelled to surrender. The tower was afterwards rebuilt, but on a smaller scale. From the tower the abbey walls stretch to the gatehouse and from there continue to the river, where they terminate in a circular tower, which is seen in the view taken across the river from near the railway bridge. ”

“ This and Little Shambles are the delight of artists. The end of one house has been shorn of the lath and plaster work and shows how such timber houses were constructed. The antiquity of the houses in High Petergate, and the mediaeval narrowness of the street, enable one looking towards Bootham Bar to realize the former appearance of the approach to a gatehouse from within the city. The approaches to the other Bars have been widened and their aspect changed. A characteristic of York is the frequent occurrence at street corners of an ancient church surrounded by its burial-ground. ”

“ One apartment contains a large fireplace with pilasters which have bases, raised panels and caps, and an arch adorned with sculptured panels. The plaster frieze has the crest of the Hastings, Earls of Huntingdon—a coronet over the garter, within which is a bull’s head between the letters H.H., the royal Tudor badge—an open pomegranate between two dragons—and the bear and ragged staff—the badge of the Dudleys, the Countess being the sister of Robert Dudley, the Queen’s favourite. In the reign of James I other additions were made, including a new entrance. ”

“ The river front had its water gate and walls. The water gate led to the “hospitium”, a two-storied building, the lower part of stone and the upper of timber and plaster. The hospitium adjoined the gateway, on the other side was the gatehouse, of which little remains.
In the lower room of the hospitium is stored much sculptured work from the abbey. Amongst the large bosses are represented the Holy Lamb, surrounded by maple leaves; the Virgin amidst the vine, and a monk playing an early violin. ”

“ Only a freeman could trade in the city, and his sons might become free on attaining their majority. He had also the right of voting for the city’s representatives in Parliament. The freedom of the city was granted to outsiders who served an apprenticeship of seven years to a freeman, or by purchase or gift. ”

“ The streets are generally termed “gates”, the gatehouses “bars”, and the city walls “bar walls”. Such names as Blossom Street, Nunnery Lane, and Bridge Street are only modern substitutes for Ploxamgate, Baggergate, and Briggate. The “gates” of York often confuse visitors. A revising barrister once excused himself for being late in court by saying that he had lost his way and at last found himself in “Bootham-gate-street!” The street referred to is simply named Bootham. The streets are narrow and wind in all directions. ”

“ From this time, under royal patronage, the hospital became independent of the Minster. On the banks of the river was a staith appropriated to the hospital.
New buildings arose. All that remains of these are a long vaulted gateway having on the north cloisters of the same length, now three aisles but formerly five, two of which are provided with a large fireplace, which has the back formed of thin tiles arranged herring-bonewise. Above were the wards of the infirmary, opening at the east end to the chapel, under which is a vaulted chamber. ”

“ The bridge is of a single span, and on the apex of the arch the Queen-mother, Alexandra, is depicted as an angel, holding the shield of St. George. Other shields, on the parapet, bear the arms of Plantagenet England, the See of York, and the White Rose. On either side charming views present themselves. On the left by the side of the river is the Esplanade, backed by St. Mary’s Abbey Close, in which are the ruins of the Abbey Church. Towards the right is a beautiful view of the city. ”

“ The upper room is chiefly devoted to pottery, glass, and the smaller Roman objects found in York. There are seven hundred and fifty perfect vessels. Of particular interest to many and kept in a glass case is the hair of a Roman lady—taken out of a lead coffin enclosed in a stone one. The hair retains its auburn colour, is coiled and secured by two jet pins.
RUINS OF ST. MARY’S ABBEY
The other conventual buildings have been destroyed, the Museum stands on a portion of them. ”

“ Whilst King Edward III and the Black Prince were engaged in the war with France, the Scots took advantage of their absence and invaded England. The martial Archbishop Zouche collected an army and marched northwards. He met and defeated the Scots at Neville’s Cross near Durham. The captured Scottish King was brought to York and passed through Micklegate Bar on his way southwards. ”

“ During the Assizes, Races, and the winter, York was the favourite resort of the nobility and gentry of the north; concerts, dances, and card parties at the Assembly Rooms, and plays at the Theatre being the fashionable amusements. ”

“ Sick people anointed with the oil became well. A man named Ralph, who had lost the sight of both eyes, after praying and fasting, came to the tomb and recovered his sight. William was placed on the calendar in the year 1227. Indulgences were granted by the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishops of London and Lincoln to those who visited the tomb. Pilgrims came from all parts to the tomb of the saint bringing
YORK FROM THE CITY WALLS offerings, with the result that the Minster authorities were encouraged to begin the erection of a new cathedral. ”

“ During the sixteenth century plays were performed in the Guildhall by itinerant companies of players, who attached themselves either to the sovereign or to some prominent nobleman. The stately hall is divided into nave and aisles by two rows of octagonal oak pillars which support timber arches carrying a low-pitched roof. The windows are filled with modern painted glass depicting events in the history of York. ”

“ Monk Bar, the entrance to the city from Scarborough, was built in the reign of Edward III. It is the most complete and imposing of the Bars, and, although shorn of its barbican, it remains the finest example of an English city gatehouse. Over the archway are crosslets to two stories which are enclosed by a pointed arch springing from the base of the turrets and supporting an embattled balcony, access to which is obtained from either turret. The balcony is adorned with the shield of Edward III, and on each spandril is a shield bearing the arms of the city of York. ”

“ The tomb of Archbishop Scrope is on the north side of the altar in the Lady Chapel. This Archbishop joined the insurrection against Henry IV, and was beheaded in a field on Bishopthorpe Road. Four of the vicars-choral conveyed the body to the Minster and buried it in the chapel of St. Stephen. Scrope was generally regarded as a martyr. ”

“ The three Norman doorways of York are all curiously enough in the Walmgate district. The nave of St. Denis was taken down in 1798; the aisled choir and a modern tower now form the church. The old Norman doorway to the nave was rebuilt with square pilasters instead of shafts and forms the new entrance. In the north aisle was buried Henry, Earl of Northumberland, who fell at Towton. Percy’s Inn, an old palace of the Earls of Northumberland, stood opposite the church. The finest Norman doorway is that at St. Margaret’s Church. The arch is of four orders, adorned with the signs of the Zodiac. ”

“ Michael’s, Spurriergate, the “Nine Choirs of Angels” are represented. In St. Martin’s, Coney Street, the west window, painted in 1447, illustrates the life of St. Martin. The clerestory contains fine figures of the four Doctors of the church, the four Evangelists, and Saints Barbara, Catherine, Wilfrid, and Denis. The east window at Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, is dated 1470. The five lights contain figures of St. George, the Baptist, the Holy Trinity which is represented as Our Father in Pity, St. John the Evangelist, and St. Christopher, with subject panels below. ”

“ There are also an ancient coronation chair, the mazer bowl of Archbishop Scrope inscribed: “+Recharde arche beschope Scrope grantis on to alle that drinkis of this cope XLti dayis to pardune”, a silver pastoral staff bearing the arms of Catherine of Braganza, taken by the Earl of Danby from James Smith, Bishop of Callipolis, whilst walking in procession to the Minster to assume the office of vicar-apostolic of the Northern District, to which he had been appointed by the Pope. ”

“ The Abbot of St. Mary’s together with the Abbot of Selby were the only two mitred abbots north of the Trent, and by virtue of their rank they were summoned as Lords of Parliament. The Lord Abbot of St. Mary’s had, near York, country residences at Overton, Deighton, and Beningbrough, and a London house near St. Paul’s Wharf.
The abbey after its surrender was retained in the possession of the Crown. The church became a quarry for anyone who required building stone; engravings show that in the seventeenth century both sides of the nave with the Triforium were standing. ”