Charles Granville Bruce

“ Further, our experiences on the last two expeditions [10] have taught us many lessons by which we hope to profit. We know exactly where our camps should he pitched. We know the approaches to the mountain. And it has been proved that our methods—Arctic methods—almost for the first time applied to mountaineering—are the right ones. ”

“ Therefore one of our difficulties is to produce our climbing parties, whether the actual mountaineers themselves, or the large gang of porters on whom the success of the mountaineering party entirely depends, at the base of operations without in say way exhausting their powers. That is one of the great problems.
When the Monsoon Breaks.
But even more important than that is the question of the weather. Thibet is one of the driest and most elevated countries on the world's surface. ”

“ All attempts on Mount Everest must be carried out before the break of the monsoon with its soft and damp winds.
The prevailing wind in Thibet is a cold and extraordinarily dry western wind, and while this lasts the mountain remains hard and frozen, and, with the exception of the intense cold, in a comparatively safe condition.
When the warm winds conquer the dry west winds everything changes, and a condition is set up which can he quite well likened to the "Fohn" wind [7] which blows in the Alps in the spring, and melts the winter snow and causes the spring avalanches. ”