Henry Salt

“ The island is difficult of approach on account of a very strong current running in its neighbourhood, against which Captain Thomlinson, attempting to bear with a leading wind, lost twenty miles per day. The eastern shore is bold and woody, and as the hills seldom rise to any great elevation, the sea breeze holds an uninterrupted course over the island, which renders the climate tolerably healthy, notwithstanding its vicinity to the equator. ”

“ It happens during the height of the south-west monsoon in the Indian Seas, in the months of June, July and August, that the Etesian winds from the north-west prevailing in the Mediterranean appear to find their way down the whole extent of the Red Sea, and it is in the height of the north-east monsoon in the Indian Seas, during the months of November, December and January, that the south-east wind (which is a part of the same current of air, I conceive, as the north-east monsoon, only changed into a different direction by the shape of the coasts) forces its way up as far as Suez. ”

“ The more respectable Arabs of this district seem, indeed, to inherit a peculiar and distinctive character, bearing a very near affinity to the patriarchal simplicity of their forefathers. From the descriptions given by the accurate Niebuhr, I am led to suspect that this honourable distinction prevails throughout a great part of the interior, forming a very striking contrast to the debauched manners of the inhabitants dwelling on the upper coast. ”

“ The inhabitants were all dressed out in their holiday clothes, and a gaiety spread itself through the town that strongly confirms the remark made by Niebuhr, "que les Arabes d'Yemen sont plus vifs que ceux d'Hedjas et infiniment plus que les Turcs;" [17] which indeed in its full extent is perfectly true.
A short time after this the Dola made his peace at court, and gradually dismissed his Abada troops, and thus with the loss I believe, of only one life, a rebellious commotion was terminated; that without much mutual forbearance, must have occasioned a most serious catastrophe. ”

“ The common track pursued by the Arab traders is as follows: they depart from the Red Sea in August, (before which it is dangerous to venture out of the gulph) then proceed to Muscat, and thence to the coast of Malabar. In December, they cross over to the coast of Africa, visit Mugdasho, Marea, Brava, Lamo, Melinda, and the Querimbo Islands. They then direct their course to the Comoro Islands, and the northern ports of Madagascar, or sometimes stretch down southward as far as Sofala. ”

“ The Island of Zanzebar is about forty-five miles in length, and fifteen in breadth. It has an excellent harbour on the western shore abreast of the town, with good anchorage in ten fathoms water, which is capable of holding a great number of vessels in perfect security throughout the year, owing to an extensive range of surrounding shoals, which break the force of the sea in every direction. ”

“ Fortunately for the reigning dynasty, Sheriffe Hamood, the Chief of Abu Arish, though he assumed the guise of a Wahabee, was in reality averse from the principles of reform which they had introduced, and therefore only waited for the first favourable opportunity to throw off the yoke. With this view, he privately entered into an arrangement with Sydee Achmed, the eldest son of the Imaum, by which the latter was induced to set aside his father's command, and to take the reins of government into his own hands. ”

“ If a small fort were erected for the guns, it might render them still more serviceable.
The ship not being likely to complete her stock of water in less than three days, I determined to take the opportunity of making a journey to Lahadj, the residence and capital of the Sultaun; [12] and as soon as we were satisfied respecting the vessel, we set out on this expedition, accompanied by Duroz, one of the Banians, under the protection of Aboo Buckr, the Dola of Aden, who had received orders from the Sultaun to attend us with a guard of his Ascari. ”

“ Beyond it, to the northward, lies a barren and rocky district, which extends to the foot of the mountains occupied by tribes of the Abada Arabs, who, when occasion requires, flock in multitudes to join the standard of the Sultaun. They are a small, but a stout and compact race of men, and constitute some of the best soldiers in Arabia. ”

“ The Sheik has under his command about one hundred native troops, chiefly employed in the regulation of the police; but the island is said to be in a very defenceless state. It is well wooded, plentifully supplied with water, and abounds in excellent pasturage. The only grains cultivated are juwarry and rice, which, as in Arabia, form the principal food of the inhabitants. Other provisions are very abundant. An ox sells for only five dollars, a
sheep for half a dollar, fowls are extremely reasonable, and a constant supply of fish is found in the market. ”

“ The inhabitants are Mahomedans of Arab extraction, under the rule of a Sheik, appointed by the Imaum of Muscat, to whom the jurisdiction of the island belongs, which was said in the years 1807-8 to have yielded a revenue of from thirty to forty thousand Spanish dollars per annum, arising almost entirely from an extinsive trade carried on with the Isles of France, Madagascar, and the Arabian Gulph. The exports consisted of slaves, gums, ivory, antimony, blue vitriol, and senna; and in return, the French supplied Zanzebar with arms, gunpowder, cutlery, coarse Indian cloths, and Spanish dollars. ”

“ The inhabitants manufacture a species of fine coloured striped cloths, peculiar to the country, which forms the common dress of Arabs of rank. Much misery and wretchedness appear to prevail among the lower classes of the townspeople, affording a striking contrast to the happy appearance of the Bedowee in the neighhourhood, who, though poorer in reality, feel a pride in their native independence, which renders them better satisfied with a more scanty sustenance. ”

“ AS the track from Mosambique to the Red Sea is little known, I have been induced to give a nautical journal of our passage as far as Aden, and particular care has been taken to mark the variation of the compass, (which was regularly observed whenever occasion offered,) on account of the existence of similar observations made on the same coast as early as the year 1620, [1] in order that, from a comparison between the different remarks, the change that has taken place in the variation may be ascertained. ”

“ On the other side, Sultaun Hassan was equally alert, and in order to augment his force, raised about fifteen hundred Abada soldiers, by permission of Sultaun Hamed, in the territories of Aden. These troops, when joined to the troops before commanded by Sultaun Hassan, formed an army of about three thousand men, which in a fortified town, were likely to make a formidable resistance, against opponents who had no cannon to bring into the field. ”

“ Coffin returned on board, and brought us the satisfactory intelligence, that Captain Rudland, my former companion in Abyssinia, was stationed at Mocha as Agent to the East India Company.
October 4.—The Banians in the morning sent down a mule, a camel, and several asses to convey us to Aden; and with this ill-assorted train the captain, the surgeon and myself, proceeded to the town. The road to it leads over a low ridge of the mountain, and for some distance is cut through the solid rock, in the narrowest part of which a strong gate protects the passage. ”

“ It was our intention to have visited these, but the season was so far advanced that it was deemed necessary to make the best of our way to Aden before the change of the monsoon should have taken place; for when the northerly monsoon has once set in, which it does in about the month of October, there is no possibility of beating up against it. This circumstance was proved by the ships under Admiral Blanket in 1798-9, which, though some of the best in our navy, were completely baffled in attempting it. (Vide Captain Bissell's Voyage to the Red Sea.) ”

“ The road leading out of the wood opens upon a barren plain, covered with hillocks composed of a fine loose sand, which, constantly drifting from place to place, presents the growth of a single blade of vegetation. ”

“ Of the town of Lahadj, which I had an opportunity of examining in the evening and in the course of the ensuing day, I have but few observations to make. The houses are, in general, formed of mud, and even the Sultaun's palace, which towers above the rest, is constructed of the same material, in the rude form of an ancient castle. ”

“ In the afternoon the atmosphere became hazy, and the wind freshened.
September 26th.—Lat. 8° 0′ N., long. 50° 0′, therm. 78° at noon: in the evening it fell to 68°, when the weather became extremely cold to the feelings; var. 5° 0′.; wind S.W. At one o'clock in the afternoon, when distant about five leagues from the land, we met with a shoal of dead fish, many thousands of which lay floating on the surface of the water, and we continued to pass through them about five and thirty minutes, sailing at the rate of two leagues in the hour. ”

“ The quantity of water required for cultivation in this place is astonishing; the soil round the trees is obliged to be kept constantly moist, which, during the dry season, is entirely supplied by the assistance of art. ”

“ From the observations made in the course of this voyage up the coast of Africa, it appears that no natural obstacles exist to have prevented early navigators from making a direct voyage from Sofala to the Red Sea. ”

“ Some Arab children, who attended us in our excursions, were highly pleased when we arrived at this spot, and plunging headlong into the water much amused us with their sportive tricks. In most Mahomedan towns the insolence of the children is particularly annoying to strangers ”

“ Such extensive connections, in a country where the ties of kindred are held almost as sacred as in the patriarchal ages, render this chieftain very powerful, and give him an almost unlimited sway over the affairs of the country. ”

“ This gave time to Sheriffe Hamood to recruit his army, and enabled him to receive large reinforcements from Sana, which, as the safety of the state depended upon it, consisted of four thousand men, and a supply of forty thousand dollars; by the help of which he is said to have augmented his forces to the number of twenty-five thousand men; four thousand of which were mounted, either on dromedaries or horses. This may be an exaggerated statement, but in a country, where the profession of every man is that of a soldier, an army of Bedowee may soon be raised by the assistance of money. ”

“ Though these traders possess a remarkable suavity in their manners, and an immoveable command of temper, yet there are no individuals in the world more keen, artful, and rapacious in their dealing, and consequently in all communications with them undue exactions must be expected and carefully guarded against, notwithstanding there may be an appearance of minute and scrupulous accuracy in their accounts. ”

“ Nothing indeed more depends on relative comparison, than the effects of heat and cold on the human frame; for I have observed that it often feels as oppressive when the thermometer is at 85°, as when it exceeds 100. In the evening, being about five miles only from Somauli Point, and in forty-one fathoms, we determined to go on shore. We found gradually decreasing soundings as we approached the land, and three fathoms water close to the beach, which renders the landing unpleasant ”

“ The inhabitants sell their things much cheaper. We got very fine bullocks, goats, poultry, rice, dholl, cocoa-nut oil, &c. Their fruits are very delicious, and they have all kinds." The provisions supplied to the fleet during its stay at Zanzebar amounted to about 2500 dollars. (Vide, for a more particular account, pages 35-6 and 7, of the same work.)
The Island of Pemba is low and about fourteen leagues long, and is represented to be still more fertile and woody than Zanzebar. Captain Fisher spoke in terms of rapture with respect to its aspect, climate, and resources. ”

“ This part of the coast is inhabited by the Mijertayne Somauli, commanded by a chief, styled Sultaun Hussan. The Imaum of Muscat some time ago sent presents of considerable value to this tribe, and solicited permission to build a small fort on the promontory of d'Orfui (called by the natives Hafoon;) ”

“ In consequence of these letters, Captain Rudland soon afterwards had sent over his assistant, Mr. Benzoni, in a country boat, with some articles of commerce, and a few presents, to Madir, a village in the Bay of Amphila on the Abyssinian coast, to which place he had appointed Mr. Pearce to come down and receive them. The difficulties which Mr. Benzoni met with, and the dangers to which this ill-concerted expedition exposed Mr. Pearce, will be given in a subsequent narrative of transactions, which the latter related to me at Chelicut. ”

“ W. nine leagues, and the coast of Africa W. S. W. seven leagues. In this situation it is particularly important for strangers unacquainted with the coast to keep near the Arabian shore until the Island of Perim appear in sight, as many ships, by not attending to this caution, have got entangled in the deep Bay of Tajoura, a remarkable instance of which is to be met with in the Voyage de l'Arabie Heureuse, page 59, 64, where, in December 1708, owing to a mistake of this nature, the vessel Le Curieux was very nearly lost on one of the shoals in this dangerous Bay. ”

“ Even this general character of the prevailing winds must be taken with some allowance, as nothing tends so much to mislead as the too general assertions by which some authors are accustomed to tie down the winds, weather and seasons, all of which are known to be somewhat variable in every part of the globe. ”