J. M. Barrie,
The Little White Bird — Chapter 8…
(1902)
“ The excellent fellow (as I thought him) was like a cheroot which may be smoked from either end.I date his lapse from one evening when I was dining by the window. I had to repeat my order "Devilled kidney," and instead of answering brightly, "Yes, sir," as if my selection of devilled kidney was a personal gratification to him, which is the manner one expects of a waiter, he gazed eagerly out at the window, and then, starting, asked, "Did you say devilled kidney, sir?" ”
