Mary Eliza Rogers

“ Its terraced hills yield a vintage of sacred memories. Its valleys flow with streams of testimony. Every rock cries out in bitter remonstrance against the unbelief of men. Every stone voices the praise of God. Palestine is more than a land of memories. It is a memorial land, as well.
Every volume that illustrates this harmony between the land and the book is an invaluable contribution to sacred literature. The field is still open. We some times think, for example, that the topography of Jerusalem is an exhausted subject. ”

“ The body of the church, unincumbered by stalls or chairs, was already nearly filled with wedding guests, holding lighted—home-made—wax tapers; one was placed in my hands. In the center of the crowd, at a lectern, stood a priest, and, immediately before him, the bride, closely shrouded in a white izzar. A many-colored muslin vail entirely concealed her features. The bridegroom by her side, who was only seventeen, wore a suit of sky-blue cloth, edged with gold thread, and a handsome crimson and white shawl girdle. ”

“ The sun shone magnificently, shedding a halo of glory on every object. In the foreground of the view a wely, or dome, stood on a rounded hill, which was covered with olive and fig trees. This is called the Dome of the Witnesses. Beyond this, there was no sign of life—all was desolate. But, looking westward, we could see Jerusalem stretched out like a map beneath us, and there were evidences of human skill and industry on almost all the hills. ”

“ Meshullam's sons kindly led us up the rocky hill-side to the ruins of Urtâs. Scattered blocks of stone, fallen columns, foundations of houses, and broken walls alone remain. A few wild Arabs of the Tàamari tribe haunt these ruins and the caverns in the limestone hills which rise behind them, attracted by the spring which gushes impetuously from a rock overgrown with mosses and ferns, and overshadowed with fine trees. The water falls in a large body, splashing and bubbling, into a square reservoir, where a group of little Bedouins stood enjoying shower-baths. ”

“ We cantered across the plain, and ascended a low rounded hill, on which stood a village, literally formed of dust and ashes. The mud-hovels looked like dust-heaps, and their interiors were little better than dust-holes; but out of these abodes heaps of clothing crawled, scarcely looking like human beings, till they slowly rose, assuming forms of strange grace and dignity, and gazed at us with serious and untroubled eyes. We saw a group of old women leaning over a square hole dug in the ground. Saleh told me that this was the village oven. ”

“ A man-of-war is cruising about far out at sea. A tall palm-tree on one side, and an oak and a seared, white-branched fig-tree on the other, inclose this coup d'oeil.
The bridle-path across the foreground was enlivened by passers-by, such as troops of barefooted boys, driving donkeys laden with hewn stones, which had been taken from the ruins of the fortress, and were about to be used in Hâifa, where many new houses were in progress, and still more were planned. Camels laden with grain and melons jolted by, and a few townspeople passed backward and forward as if to peep at our tents. ”

“ The cliffs on each side were steep and abrupt, pierced with caverns, and channeled with water-courses, and in the bottom of the valley there were large rocks of fantastic form, percolated by rain, and tinted red, gray, orange-color, and lavender, relieved by black and white. On the rock-ledges above us there were scanty crops of barley, wheat, and lentiles, and olive and fig trees appeared again in small groups. Flocks of goats and larger cattle were being led out to seek for pasture by rather desperate-looking herdsmen, well armed. ”

“ We went to the Latin Church of the Annunciation. We made our way through the nave, which is large and lofty. One side was crowded with men and boys bareheaded, and the other side occupied by women, kneeling on the marble pavement in rows. Their foreheads and the lower parts of their faces were quite concealed by folds of muslin and linen. As we passed by, they with one accord raised their heads for a moment, and their bright dark eyes flashed upon us from under their kohl-tinged lids like a gleam of lightning, then they bent their heads low and resumed their devotions. ”

“ We had reached the melon-growing district, and a lively picture of Arab life was before us. Up to the very edge of the cliffs, all along the coast as far as we could see, there were beds of various kinds of melons; and groups of dusky peasants, in white shirts and white turbans, were busily engaged gathering them, counting them, and building them up in pyramids. Hundreds of camels were there too, some walking away well laden, others kneeling down patiently, while their panniers were being filled with the bulky fruit. ”

“ They had never seen a European, and told me that no daughter of the Franks had ever entered their town before. They said, "Be welcome, O sister from a far country; this house is yours, and we are your servants." Then they asked me with whom, and how, and whence I had come. The ladies wore full, long trowsers, made of colored silk; short, tight jackets, made of cloth or velvet, embroidered with gold; and flowers and jewels in their head-dresses. The servants wore cotton suits, and the slaves red cloth. They wondered to see my plain, long, dark riding-dress and hat. ”

“ There had been rain during the night, and the stone houses of Nablûs, the white rocky terraces which bordered the fruit-gardens on the hill-sides, and the slabs of smooth stone in the plains, glistened like mirrors in the gleams of sunshine. The grass, the wild flowers, the fruit-trees, and the broad fields of wheat and barley were still wet with the recent shower, and looked vividly green where the quickly traveling clouds overshadowed them. ”

“ The old woman said, "Never mind, let us gather some flowers before we go down." There were dahlias, hollyhocks, balsams, scavias, African marigolds, everlastings, roses, sweet basil, and myrtles in full blossom. I made a bouquet of the three last, and the woman said, "Why have you passed all the other flowers to take these ?" I said, "These are the flowers I love the best for their scent and for their beauty." She said, "Even as you love one flower better than another, so God loves one creature more than another. You are one of the favorites of God, and he protects you in all dangers." ”

“ I have never seen a plant of which so beautiful, and at the same time so cruel, a crown could be composed. This thorn is the Poterium spinosum. About Easter, it is seen in all its beauty, the leaves glossy and full-grown, the fruit or seed-vessels brilliantly red, like drops of blood, and the thorns sharper and stronger than at any other time. No plant or bush is so common on the hills of Judea, Galilee, and Carmel as this. It is used extensively for fuel, especially for the bakers' ovens, and "the crackling of thorns under a pot" may often be heard in Palestine. ”

“ We crossed a spring, round which tall reeds and short, soft grass grew. Thousands of edible snails were clinging to the stems of some straggling bushes. Wily, long-rooted marram-grass and sea-holly—eryngium maritimum—tamarisks, and willows bound the sandy soil, and kept it from drifting. We passed over some sand-hills, on which were a few scattered plants, with thick, downy, whitish leaves and yellow blossoms. Here we took leave of our Shefa ’Amer friends, and they returned to their olive-groves. ”

“ We descended into a broad plain, where thorns and thistles flourished. Lilies of the valley, the first I had seen, and a great variety of the orchis tribe grew among them. The gnat and bee orchis were beautifully developed. Hundreds of tiny birds were disturbed by our approach, and flew out of their nests in the low bushes, chirruping and singing. We gathered wild thyme, and gladly ate it with the bread which we had brought from Hâifa, for the morning air had sharpened our appetites. ”

“ Soon afterward Salihh Agha came, in his large scarlet cloak, edged with gold-lace and embroidery. His dark face was deeply shaded by his lilac and silver shawl, worn like a hood, bound round his head by a thick white cord of camel's hair. His eyelids were kohl-tinged, and he looked rather fierce, on the whole. He and his brother, the celebrated Akîel Agha, are the most powerful and formidable people in the Pashalic of ’Akka. They came originally from Morocco, and are now in the service of the Turkish Government. They have three or four hundred armed horsemen under their command. ”

“ Opposite to these ruins, the plain was concealed from us by a low ridge of rocky hills, running close to the sandy shore, which is here and there enlivered by a group of palm-trees.
We kept close to the sea till we came, in about one hour and a half, to Athlîte, or Castellum Pelegrinum, a curious motley pile of ruins standing out on a rocky headland. The foundation stones are so massive, that they have resisted the storms of centuries, and tell of a time anterior to the Romans, who no doubt erected the fortress, built the walls, and fashioned the columns which are now falling to decay. ”

“ DOMESTIC LIFE IN JERUSALEM.
About an hour before the sun went down, on Holy Saturday, we rode out of the city, glad to breathe the fresh air after the fatigue and excitement of the morning. We passed out of the Yâfa Gate, and went all round Jerusalem, close to the walls. I saw a number of poor peasant-girls coming out of the olive-grove opposite to the Damascus Gate. They wore tattered white cotton vails and home spun purple linen dresses. They were barefooted, but they all looked merry, and carried boughs of trees and flowers in their brown hands. ”

“ Long lines of camels, troops of horsemen, flocks of goats, vegetable-laden asses, and groups of peasant women, with baskets or bundles on their heads, were coming and going all day, along the broad road which crosses this plain, and vultures and eagles swept through the air.
In the afternoon I rode out with my brother. We went down into the stony valley of the Convent of the Cross, passing the white-walled newly-restored Greek convent, and made our way, among rocks and thorns, to the valley of Hinnom, well planted with olives, figs, and pomegranates. ”

“ If on the battle-field my first-born son should fall, I have still my younger ones who will in God's time be like unto him. But, O my lord, if my only brother should be slain, I am without remedy—for my father is dead and my mother is old, And where should I look for another brother?' "And Ibrahîm was much pleased with the words of the woman, and said, 'O woman! happy above many is thy brother; he shall be free for thy word's sake, and thy husband and son shall be free also.' Then the woman could not speak for joy and gladness. ”

“ We paused when we came to the thrashing-floor, outside the village, and there took leave of our Kefr Kâra friends.
The blind man pressed my hand to his lips and to his forehead, saying, "May Allah preserve you, O my daughter, and keep you from all harm!" With blessings and pleasant words ringing in our ears, we cantered quickly over a broad cultivated plain, across a stony river-bed, and then rose on to a range of hills, dark with evergreen oaks, and carpeted with wild flowers. We rode eastward, overlooking plains and valleys. The black man was still with us. ”

“ I was roused from a reverie by the words, "We are entering the olive-groves of Nazareth." I could just distinguish a range of hills, forming an amphitheater in the shape of a horseshoe, and the extent of the town could be traced by the lights gleaming from the windows of the houses which thickly dotted the valley below, and were grouped here and there on the hill-sides. The Arabs keep lamps burning in their rooms all night to chase away evil spirits. ”

“ There were red watch-fires on the hills around. By looking through the round holes in the parapets we could see people in the streets below us, with servants carrying lanterns before them. Bright stars shone in the deep-purple night sky.
I was led across the court into a square room, and introduced to the fourth and youngest wife of the Governor of Arrabeh. I had not even heard of her before. She was surrounded by her women and attendants, and was sitting on a mattress propped up by pillows and cushions, and partly covered by a silk embroidered lehaff. ”

“ A man was winnowing a heap of wheat, by lifting up as much as he could at a time, and as he let it fall gradually, the wind carried away the chaff. We lingered a moment by the old stone well in the olive grove; near to it we saw a number of strong masculine-looking laughing girls. In a few minutes we came to the little village of Ain-jûr, with palm trees and flourishing gardens round it. At this point we turned away from the hills, and made our way across the fertile plain. ”

“ Many women came in; among them was Yakûb esh Shellabi's mother. She said impetuously, "How long shall I wait for my son Yakûb and not see him ? Why does he stay so long away from his country and his people? Why did you leave him in England, O lady? I shall die and never see him again." I answered, "Be comforted; your son will return to you and give you joy." Zora seemed troubled at the mention of his name, and left the room; but Habîb smiled a smile of self-congratulation, and asked if I thought that Yakûb would return in time to claim his little daughter. ”

“ The next morning Sheikh Mûssa came that I might finish his portrait. He said, "They are idiots and 'majnûni' who believe that a man is in danger of losing his soul if a resemblance of him be made on paper with lines of a pencil point—but it is not well to make him of wood or to carve him in stone." He added, "In this land there is much ignorance and folly, but we must hold our peace, for if we speak the thoughts of our hearts to fools they will say, 'It is your folly and not ours—we are wise—ye are fools who doubt our wisdom. ”

“ My brother and Saleh went home with Habîb to sleep at his house. I was left alone in the large guest chamber, where Stephani had caused a bed to be made for me. I opened one of the heavy shutters, to see my friends pass round on the side of the hill, five lanterns gleaming before them. I fastened the door with a stiff clumsy lock, the mechanism of which I did not in the least understand, and I soon discovered that I was a self-made prisoner, for I could not find out how to undo it again. I was obliged to resign myself to my fate, making sure I should be set free in the morning. ”

“ Every art was employed that could add a new charm to beauty. I can hear their songs of rejoicing when the Winter rains passed away and the flowers appeared on the earth. I can see them early in the morning in the vineyards, or on the stairs cut in the rock on the hill-side, going down into the garden of nuts, to see the fruits of the valley—to see whether the vine flourished and the pomegranate budded ”

“ I do not know any place where there are so many well-dressed turbaned and tarbûshed loungers to be seen smoking, musing, gossiping, and playing with their rosaries, as outside the gate of the town of Yâfa just before sunset. In the same place a market is held in the early morning, and then there is a crowd as large, but much more motley, noisy, and busy. ”

“ A party of Bedouins were watering their camels at the stone trough connected with the well. Under the pleasant tree-shadows we rested, and on a bank of wild thyme and sweet marjoram we spread our simple provisions—"a basket of Summer fruit," a few thin cakes of flour, and some new wine. At the entrance to an extensive cavern, in the base of a hill opposite to us, a group of peasants were sleeping. The cave, like many smaller ones which we had seen, had been fashioned originally by nature, but man had at some period or other smoothed the inner wall, and made a dwelling there. ”