“ When passing near a hill the road is generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.
The Country.Is as a rule dead flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt. Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a rule. ”

“ There is a large mixed population, some of whom were seen playing a game called “tiwa” very like rounders. The plain of Managil is absolutely flat, without a single bush in sight, the whole in favourable seasons being given up to cultivation. Market days are Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving Managil by the route taken Otgi (Hameg) , Dar Nail (Hameg) , Wad El Shagl (Faradiin) are passed a mile or more on the right hand, whilst Takala and Um Dugl are passed on the left, before reaching Um Talha a Faradiin village. All these villages have wells, as have all villages of any pretensions about here. ”

“ The Nubas live on top of the right or Northern side, and their village is approached by a precipitous path winding up the face of the cliff, and at times disappearing in clefts in the rocks, reappearing again 10 feet higher up. On reaching the top of the ridge one finds oneself in a valley formed by the mountains which curve back outwards from either side of the waterfall and unite again three miles from the ridge, forming a bowl-shaped hollow, the stream flows along the bottom of this basin and falls over the ridge to the level of the main road outside Kindirma. ”

“ The supply is abundant and never failing in the driest seasons. Small puddled basins are formed, as at other wells, on the ground surface for the use of cattle. An acacia forest, traversed by the Desert Column on the night of 18th January, 1885, lies a mile or two S. of the ordinary track hereabouts. The track to Metemma now leads over light scrub and tussocky gravel; that to Abu Khru or Khrug and Gubat is similar, but with less scrub. The caravan route ends at Metemma, which is situated near the W. bank of the Nile, and is separated from the desert by a low line of hills. ”

“ At Apiot 10 good wells give water all the year. People are friendly and ready to help, but are not fond of carrying work. They are more manly and straightforward than the Agars, and I have hopes that they are not so treacherous in disposition. They carry bows and arrows as well as spears. From the fort, road is N.E., through villages of Chediop and Mogar which join each other, then through forest across deserted village of Manibin 9 miles on; to pool 3 miles; then through old mudiria with many small wells which do not require much digging to keep them open all the year, 3 miles. ”

“ The wells lie in an open plain; no vegetation near, except about six to ten small trees about 31⁄2 miles to W. giving a little feeding for camels. To the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of hills, and the road to Selima Wells lies across it; on reaching summit of ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be seen. Arabs state it is the road to Selima, and there is no grazing. To the S., the road to Sultan Well (the place where Natron is found) lies across an open plain, and is easy going. ”

“ Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and, without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made drinking pans, which are scarce on other road. ”

“ At 3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well 250 feet deep, marked by some small but well built mud houses in good preservation, said to belong to the Sheikh of El Soba. About 3⁄4 mile to the left is a tank, said to hold the largest supply of water in the neighbourhood. The country now becomes more and more bare of trees, and more ground fit for cultivation is seen. At 61⁄2 miles some Batahin crops are passed, and the Wadi Sereria flowing S. is crossed. A well belonging to the Mesellemia is said to be close at hand on left. At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ Wad Hassuna to Rufaa is crossed. ”

“ One valley, just before entering the Hegerib Plain in which Bir Kerikun lies, is full of bushes and is cotton soil, but not bad going; there must be a good deal of water all over this country in a good year, but it is quite dry now. There is no grass for horses the whole way; the going is good, but a little heavy over the sand hills from one valley to another, and also, except just when entering Wadi Hegerib, 3 miles before reaching Bir Kerikun. ”

“ Khartoum — — Leaving Khartoum by the track passing 200 yards west of the westernmost rifle butts, the country for the first 7 miles is quite open, and very slightly undulating. The soil is poor and sandy, and no attempt at cultivation is visible. At 8 miles the track passes through low scattered arak bush, which continues to Id El Agaliin, where there is one well 120 feet deep with a good supply of water. Ahmed El Faki is the Omda of El Agaliin. Very fair grazing for camels on arak bush. Leaving the Id the country soon becomes open and bare, the soil richer, and traces of cultivation appear. ”

“ Soil in neighbourhood mostly sandy and firm. Stream full of fish, which many Kirin people come to catch and dry. Fishing places do not extend more than 20 miles west of Kirin. As I had been told the Khor Yabus took a sharp bend S. after clearing the hills I chose the left bank, so as to avoid missing the turn. The ground near the khor was stony and broken by side khors, so marched well clear of stream. Ground firm and bush not thick enough to be an obstacle. If grass had not been burnt going would have been difficult. ”

“ From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long grass on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is difficult of access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to river, which is cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and bush.
The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is narrow and generally deep. ”

“ Many of the men have rifles. They are not naked like those of Kau, and appear to be a cross between Arabs and Nubas. The Mahdi’s Stone is a large boulder up the slope of the hill, outside of, and about 1⁄2 a mile from the northern heel of the horseshoe, and on the way to Girada, of the same colour as the surrounding rocks, and shaded by a heglig tree, which may account for the Mahdi’s partiality for it. No cultivation was seen, but the inhabitants said they had some dura fields ripening. Jebel Girada appears to be 5 to 7 miles distant. It is said to have a plentiful water supply. ”

“ There are said to be about thirty wells round the hill, varying in depth from 50 to 100 feet, yielding an unfailing supply of water; some grass near but no firewood. The only path up the hill is from the N., and even there nailed boots must be taken off. From the summit a good view is obtained. Near the top on some level ground is a place shown as the tomb of the “Bint El Mek,” the daughter of one of the Fung Kings, who married Sheikh El Din one of the early Shukria Sheikhs. From Geili there are two roads to Um Rueishid, one of which viâ J. El Daein makes a considerable detour. ”

“ The whole way practically is bad going, both for camels and donkeys, owing to rotten black cotton soil. Camels go at a slow walk only. From Kuka onwards the route is waterless, but there are plenty of likely looking places where water might be found if wells were dug. From Meshra Sirri, route runs roughly N.W. along right bank of Rahad, it is marked by blazed trees here and there. At times going very bad over cotton soil. Camels get along with difficulty at slow walk. Sometimes going is good, but only for short time. ”

“ The water is excellent for drinking, and the supply is good, having failed only once within the 30 years preceding 1872. These wells are directly on the camel track to Metemma and are constantly visited by caravans. They also form a favourite watering place for the flocks and herds of the Arabs. The route now enters a valley with grass and trees, and after following it for some distance across a plain covered with sand and black boulders, succeeded by a more favourable district, capable of cultivation during the rains. ”

“ It is not quite clear whether it keeps it to the end or adopts the name Abu Gidean after its junction with that wadi.
The going is extremely good, there being no difficulty whatever.
Though a good deal used, there is no marked track till near the wells. The numerous small isolated hills act as efficient landmarks, so that everyone takes his own line.
Except for the short and uncertain period when green grass can be obtained, “selem” is the best camel grazing in all this country. It is found almost all the way in the wadi. ”

“ Muglad — — Is a district about 50 miles square, two days easy from Shakka and two days from Bahr El Arab. There are many feriks, but no permanent villages; the people all go to Bahr El Arab as soon as the water gets scarce and the harvest is collected. They store grain on the tops of trees for consumption and seed when they return in the rainy season. Population all Homr (Ageira) , there are many Rizeigat and a few Maalia when I was there, but they have returned to Shakka. There is lots of gum in the district, but they do not collect it. Wells can be made at 10 feet, but they make none. ”

“ Dense kittr is passed through en route, but the road is cleared for the wire. Approaching Moya much cultivation is passed in clearings in the bush. The name Moya as applied to this village is an euphemism as water is particularly scarce, and is obtained from several 15 to 20 feet wells under the jebel 1 mile south of the village. In the hot weather the inhabitants (probably 2,000) disperse or else carry their water from Segadi. The Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai, and the majority of the population are Amarna, a few Hameg and Gowama. ”

“ There were formerly six other wells, equally good, close by, of which the marks are still visible. The natives say they only want cleaning out. Water can sometimes be got by scraping at the mouth of the khor about 110 yards distant. Near the well stands the ruin of a house, built at the time it was proposed to take the telegraph line to Berber by this route. It is a bad and confined camping ground, with very little shade, though there are a few dom palms and thorn bushes along the khor. Heat and dust very great. ”

“ Formerly the produce of the Province used to make its way to Berber via Sani, and this new trade route, sometimes called the Hawashawi route, from a hill of that name, seems to have been established to meet the new conditions in the Sudan.
From Bayuda the route keeps straight on, crossing the Goz Abu Delua just before reaching Hanboti, and strikes the Nile near the Shabluka. Between Bayuda and Merowe there are considerable stretches without any camel grazing, and there is no shade of any value in hot weather. ”

“ Camels have to walk. At 21⁄2 miles J. Rera is seen to the S.E., and the track makes fairly straight for it, leaving on the right the group of small hills known as El Nawasla. At 61⁄4 miles the track descends a gentle slope, and bends up to the N. to the well of Um Rueishid. The more direct road, which would appear to be the best in every way, runs nearly due E. over a “Nal” grass covered plain devoid of bush, therefore also of shade and firewood, to Sofeiya El Wata (23 miles) a large tank (dry January, 1901) , where there is excellent shade for a small party. ”

“ During the floods of the Baraka, these wells are flushed, the water being thick and impregnated with alluvial mud. The country on the left bank is open and stony, and remains so until the line of the Jebel Shaba hills is reached. To the right bank of the khor a certain amount of cultivation exists, which increases in amount as the Tokar delta is reached. Heina range visible to south. Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W. of Temeren; track to it clearly marked over stony plain by occasional stone heaps. Contains grass, ravines, shrubs, and numerous pools of water (July) ”

“ If not constantly used, these wells are quickly filled in by the sand; but as the water is not more than 6 feet to 10 feet below the surface, they are easily opened out again. The bed here is sandy and about 120 yards wide. Ambarab is the name given to a grassy, and in the rains marshy, place about 11⁄2 miles further up stream on the left bank. Ambarab — — There is a road from here to Agordat. The road to Sogada leads generally in a S. direction for the most part over level ground covered with more or less thick bush, which offers no serious obstacle to camels in single file. ”

“ Another outlying hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed but not seen, about 4 miles from the jebel which strongly resembles J. Kassala on a small scale. It consists of two main granite masses lying north-east and south-west, the wells being between them. There is also one on the western side of main jebel. The village, which must contain some 1,500 inhabitants, is close to the western face of the larger jebel. The population is very mixed, and many only live here during the dry season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is Sheikh of this heterogeneous crowd. ”

“ After 5 miles further you enter the hills, and there are 4 miles of very bad stony going in and out of small khors in the midst of stony mountains till you descend into Khor Barshoi, about 1 mile long, with dom palms on both banks; then Khor Araf comes in from the N.W., and the way to Khor Langeb is up this khor, averaging 30 or 40 yards in width, thick dom trees on either bank, coarse green grass in places, but not in any great quantity. The mountains all through run down to the dom palms on the banks of the Khor Araf on each side; away in the distance are some very high stony peaks. ”