United States Tariff Commission

“ In answer to the argument that the domestic industry has so well withstood the competition offered by what seem to be extremely low-cost Italian hats, it has been urged that the Italian producers are far from their market and that jobbers prefer a source of supply more conveniently at hand. ”

“ Some domestic firms deal only with jobbers, others only with retailers. A few of the largest firms sell to both jobbers and retailers. When the manufacturer dispenses with the services of jobbers his selling costs are, of course, increased. Foreign straw hats are distributed principally by importing jobbers. Such firms are usually engaged also in the marketing of domestic hats and in some instances are manufacturers or have financial interests in domestic factories. Foreign factories occasionally deal directly with large retailers in this country. ”

“ Working hours and wages.—The labor employed in the manufacture of sewed straw hats is well organized in both Italy and England. The rates of wages and hours of labor, both of factory workers and of employees of contractors, are determined by collective bargaining. A minimum wage scale for both pieceworkers and timeworkers became effective in Italy October 27, 1924. The labor of women and children in Italy is limited to 48 hours per week (decree of March 15, 1923) . The employment of children under 12 years of age in shops and factories is prohibited. ”

“ Styles for men's straw hats are set about one year in advance. Sample hats are manufactured in May and June and orders are taken by manufacturers in July, August, and September for hats to be delivered the following spring. This custom of the trade makes it possible for foreign manufacturers to copy and offer in competition the same styles as those made by American manufacturers. Imported hats have a wide range of styles and prices, including not only sewed hats of sennit braid but also those of fancy braids, and woven body hats such as leghorns. ”

“ The manufacture of men's straw hats has been conducted on a commercial scale in the United States for upward of 50 years. The industry is centered in and around New York City, in a number of cities in Massachusetts and Connecticut, and in Baltimore, Md. Statistics of production of men's sewed straw hats are not available, since the census of manufactures does not distinguish between men's and women's hats nor between sewed hats and woven hats. ”

“ Figures were secured for only a few producers of cheap American hats, and while it is impossible to say what weight should be given to such cheap American production, expert opinion is not wanting in support of the view that because of the method of sampling employed, American costs as a whole have been unduly elevated for comparison with Italian costs. ”

“ If transportation costs be not included, the rate of duty shown by the differences in said costs of production, necessary to equalize said differences, upon men's sewed straw hats valued at $9.50 or less per dozen in the country of exportation, is a rate of 50 per cent ad valorem based upon the American selling price, as defined in said section 402, of similar competitive articles manufactured or produced in the United States. ”

“ In so far as such importers perform the jobbers' functions, the objections stated may not be valid, but any [18] importers' costs of reselling to jobbers should undoubtedly have been collected and considered.
It may further be noted that some American manufacturers actually sell their hats to retailers. Such domestic selling expenses were secured by the commission on its schedules, and there is reason to believe that certain overhead items in the assembled costs are probably larger than they would otherwise be because of the imperfect allocation of selling and manufacturing expenses. ”

“ Firms organized to deal directly with retailers uniformly had higher selling expenses than those whose products were marketed chiefly through jobbers. The average selling expense of the selected hats was $1.64 per dozen, or 10.8 per cent of the average manufacturing cost. ”

“ Evidence was introduced showing that the production of 19 factories decreased from 468,424 dozen in the eight months August, 1923, to March, 1924, to 391,189 dozen in the corresponding months of 1924-25. Seventeen firms showed decreased production and two firms reported increases. Meanwhile imports of foreign hats increased from 74,355 dozen to 102,450 dozen. Imports from Italy increased from 38,000 dozen to 70,000; imports from England decreased from 12,000 dozen to 9,000. ”

“ In other words, the record establishes the need, if competitive costs are to be equalized under section 315, for creating two classes of men's sewed straw hats, with a different principal competing country and a separate rate of duty for each class. ”