W. D. F. Vincent

“ Scale of Proportionate Measures.
That this scale will be useful we have no doubt, and by working from it much better results can be obtained than by any divisions of the breast measure, for it is based on what has long been an acknowledged fact, that at birth the head is nearly one-fourth the total height of the body, whilst at 7 or 8 it bears the relation of one-seventh, and at 16 it bears the same relative propotions as in the adult, which is differently computed at from 1 to 71⁄2 to 1 to 8. ”

“ It is such work that transforms the science of tailoring to an art, and if we wish to rank as artist tailors and rise in our noble profession, those are the lines on which we must act and not use one pattern indiscriminately for all of a given size, and so produce the same style of garment, irrespective of the customer's peculiarities. ”

“ If wanted to put on or off, it will be best to sew the neck to a narrow band and fasten it to the stand of the collar with holes and buttons, the seam coming just on the top of the collar seam. They are sometimes lined but not often, that plan being more frequently adopted for ladies. The jelly-bag is a much smaller style of hood, and is pointed at the bottom, it makes up in the same way, and is very close-fitting to the head in wear. These are the two principal styles of hoods worn by gentlemen. Other types being more of a fancy nature, are more suitable for ladies. ”

“ The gliding joints which twist upon each other; they are composed of small, square bones, forming arches, the simplest form of which is found in eels and snakes; they are found in the back bone, the arch of the foot and wrist. The next is the hinge, or swing joint, which moves to and fro, but has no side motion, the simplest illustration of which is the hinge of a door which moves only two ways, to and fro, swinging; these are usually the second and third joints of each member, thus, the second and third joints of the leg would be the knee and ankle; the second of the arm is the elbow ”

“ It is frequently a difficulty to put the strapping down the forearm seam, and it may not be out of place if we give a plan whereby it is fairly easy. This consists of preparing the strapping and stitching it to the topside previous to the seam being sewn, and then stitch down the other side of the strapping also before joining the seam, after which the seam may be either lapped under the strapping or seemed in the ordinary way, after which it will be necessary to fell the undersleeve to the strapping, with as private a stitch as possible. ”

“ The shape of the collar end at H must be left to the taste of the operator, to form it in accordance with the turn, so as to produce the effect desired. F is the depth of the fall above D, and is drawn from F to H. This is a collar system which adapts itself to almost all styles and widths of collar, from the Dress Coat to the Overcoat with the wide collar. It requires very little working up, and has the advantage of adding additional spring at the fall edge: when the fall becomes deeper, a result which must commend itself to all thoughtful minds. ”

“ This is one of the most important styles in connection with the present work, being the garment above all others the high-class tailor is called upon to make. It bears very much the same relation to the youth that the Dress Coat does to the man, being worn on such occasions as demand full dress, although in many of our public schools it is always worn in every day wear. It in seldom or ever worn buttoned, consequently it is not cut with too much bottom stand,3⁄4 of an inch being quite enough at the bottom, the lapel at the top being quite it matter of taste, but should not be made too heavy. ”

“ It will be noticed that pleats are put in the lining down the front shoulder under the arm, and down the back, and the fly kept a seam behind the front edge, the stay for the hip pocket; being either carried in to the scye or to the sideseam; either plan will do, but it is scarcely necessary to use both. A V of silk is put in the front of scye to allow ample room at that part, the in breast pockets should be jeated top and bottom, and faced. The two hip pockets of an Overcoat should always be either cloth or chamois leather, as silesia feels poor and cold to put the hands in. ”

“ The Venuses and Appollos are generally looked upon as the highest ideals of proportion sculptors have ever produced, they are the statues that for ages have charmed the world, and have been looked upon as masterpieces of art ”

“ The waist seam may be drawn by hollowing it over the hips about 1 inch. The underarm seam may be placed in the position considered the most effective (we prefer a narrow sidebody ourselves) , and take out 1 inch at this part for a figure 4 inches smaller at waist than chest, and adding on or taking off 1⁄3 of the disproportion at this part as the waist increases or diminishes in its relation to the chest. Now measure across to the front the waist measure, plus 2 inches, add on a button stand, and shape the front to agree with fashion or fancy. ”

“ It has been frequently pointed out that a knowledge of anatomy and mathematics is of very great service to the cutter, and as we shall endeavour to show every phase of science or art that can be brought to bear on the development of our profession, these must occupy a prominent position. ”

“ The sleeves should also be made quite 1⁄2 or 3⁄4 of an inch wider at elbow and cuff than for a Lounge, on both top and underside. It is always wise to err on the side of a too long fall edge to the collar than the reverse, for, being exposed to all inclemencies of the weather, they would soon shrink if any amount of stretching were necessary to bring them to a correct shape. ”

“ A pocket is sometimes put in the pleats at side, and a small ticket or cash pocket is invariably put in the fore-part. The one great feature about the garment is to keep it close up at the neck, as any excess of size at that part would detract from the fit. The collar is of the ordinary stand form, and the cuff either left plain or made to form a gauntlet style of cuff as shown on diagram 49. A button stand of 1+1⁄4 inches is allowed on, so that the buttons may come just down the centre. ”

“ The pockets on this style of garment are either placed under the pleat, at breast or patch as shown on diagram 11, and as in breast pocket in the ordinary position. Variations innumerable are introduced in the method of arranging the pleats for the juvenile branch, but this we shall notice later on, under the heading of designing; but there is one style which is a good deal used for youths and men, which only has one pleat up the buck and one down each front, running into the gorge, this style is generally finished with a Prussian collar, but of course any style of collar and turn may be used. ”

“ As an illustration of the use of a knowledge of the movements of the various joints, we may take that of a figure on horseback; it is a common belief that the knee bends inwards, so as to cling to the horse, hence many systems, have the centre line shifted 1, 1+1⁄2, 2 inches further from the front of fly line to produce this style of trousers; now, a knowledge such as we are treating shows such a movement to be impossible ”

“ An inch should be allowed for fulness on the topsides at knee, and a similar amount allowed on the undersides above the level of crutch to allow of it being fulled on to form a receptacle for the seat. They are generally made close fitting as regards the size of thigh and leg, and the fronts made in whole fall style, but this must by no means be taken for granted, as fly fronts are made for this class of servant. ”

“ As these jackets are seldom worn with a vest, care must be taken not to cut them too large, for although they are usually interlined with wedding and quilted all over the forepart, and occasionally the back, too, yet this hardly makes up for the want of the vest, so that we have found 1+3⁄4 a-side over the breast measure to be quite sufficient. It will of course be noticed that the back in cut on the crease, and like the Eton, cut with a point at bottom, which usually runs about 3+1⁄2 inches below the waist. ”

“ The Page's trousers are of the ordinary close-fitting type, and may be made rather smarter fitting than is the rule for other Liveries, and as the seat is fully exposed to view, care must be taken to avoid having any surplus materiel, either in width or length, although of course sufficient width must be left for ease or stooping, &c.; they are always made fly front, and when the edges of jacket are piped, the sideseam of trousers are done to match. ”

“ It will of course be understood that seams are taken off both back and sidebody, and as the back is hollow, the taking a 1⁄4 inch off all up the sidearm will increase the length, as it must be apparent to anyone that as soon as you increase the diameter of a circle, the circumference must be increased as a matter of course with the sidebody, however, the same principle is applied, but in the reverse way, for that being a round, a seam taken from it shortens it ”

“ If the neck has not been taken, the half waist will do as well. From 3+1⁄2 to 7+1⁄4 is the across back measure, as taken, plus seems, which usually equals one-fifth of the breast (a too wide back is specially to be avoided) . Now measure forward from point 9, the half breast measure, and wherever allowance is deemed advisable for ease, &c. 2+1⁄4 inches is added in the present case, that being a medium quantity. Measure back from 20+1⁄4 to 12+1⁄4 the across chest measure as taken on the customer ”

“ So much might be said on this topic that we feel we should be overlooking a most important factor in successful cutting if we did not make some allusion to it, for not only must we have the seams to run in graceful curves and devoid of all sharp angles, etc., but they must be also arranged so as to bring out the special points of beauty which exist in a more or less degree in every figure, as well as toning down other prominent points which detract from its graceful appearance. ”

“ It may he urged the pressure of business will not allow sufficient time for this, which is doubtless true in many cases but if we aspire to reach the top of the ladder of fame it is the only way it can he attained, and as there is always plenty of room in the upper stories of our profession for really good men. whilst the lower branches are always too crowded, we can only exhort our readers to aim high, and, by diligent application and study, master every problem connected with our calling, and make themselves worthy of the highest position the trade can offer. ”

“ No style of garment of a fancy kind has remained so long in favour as this, and it is worn by boys, youths, and men, in almost the same style; a great variety exists as to the style of putting on the pleats, the most popular being the one shown on the diagram and having two up the back and front, meeting at the same spot on the shoulder. ”

“ Consists more in dealing with abnormalities, and bringing them as nearly in appearance to these ideals of proportion; hence it is not only necessary for us to know what constitutes a proportionate figure, but also by the measures we take and the peculiarities of form we notice, to be able to detect wherein each customer varies from proportion, and by thus toning down the abnormalities to produce the most suitable garments for each customer. ”

“ The Human Figure is Symmetrical, the Halves being Reversed, the pubic bone is the centre of the figure. The stretched-out arms give the height, the half is from pit of neck to tip of fingers, and is the same as from pubic bone to tip of toes. ”

“ As the scope of the work is very wide it will be as well to view it more as a treatise on practical cutting, adapted to youths and juveniles, than as a pure and simple juvenile work; accordingly we shall endeavour to explain such principles as will stand the test of meeting the vastly different wants of all the seven ages of man. ”

“ Then, again, the question of colour must always occupy an important place in the consideration of every cutter, and may be briefly stated, as all those colours which attract the light, such as white, etc., apparently increase the size of the figure, whilst all dark ones, such as black, etc., have the opposite effect. ”