Seam

“ There is a kind of seam along the centre, exactly under the stem of the leaf, from both sides of which long and tough fibres, about the size of a bristle, regularly diverge in an oblique direction; sometimes there appear to be two layers of fibres, which cross each other, and the whole is cemented with a still finer, fibrous, and adhesive substance. ”

“ A curious kind of seam, starting from the middle of his chin and running underneath him the whole length of his body, gives him somewhat the appearance of a stuffed animal which has not been very carefully sewn up. ”

“ Whenever a seam is taken from a hollow, such as the sideseam of back, the seam is at once lengthened; whereas, whenever a seam is taken from a round, such as the sideseam of sidebody, the seam is shortened; and if some plan is followed to avoid getting the sidebody too short; the back will either have to be fulled on, or the waist of sidebody will be nearly an inch above the waist of back, and so completely destroy the fit in that particular. ”

“ A RAW-EDGE LAPPED SEAM is used in making garments of heavy, closely woven material that will not fray or ravel. The seam edges must be cut very accurately and smoothly. Baste the edges evenly, lapping them the full allowance, and stitch as near the edge of the upper lap as possible. A second row of stitching five-eighths of an inch from the first gives it a neat and tailored finish. The seam on the under side should be trimmed off evenly. ”

“ Broad Seam Stitch AN ORDINARY TAILORED SEAM, which makes a good, neat finish is the plain seam pressed with both edges turned to one side, and a row of machine stitching run in neatly along the one side of the seam from the right side of the garment as shown in Illustration 155. ”

“ Plain percale 10" warp, 12" woof; white thread No. 50; needle No. 7.
Five exercises of the Second Year Sewing will consist of seam work on the Seam Sampler. Each stitch will be first taught on the Practice Piece. Make pupils perfectly familiar with the names and uses of the different stitches as they are taught. As the year's work progresses compare the different seams and teach when, where and why these various seams are used in garment making. See "Description of Seams," page 85. That the pupils may not lose interest in their sewing the seam work is alternated with miscellaneous exercises. ”

“ A soft finish is much used on silk and wool materials and on velvet. For this soft finish turn under the seam allowance on the neck edge and cover it with seam-binding sewed on flat like a facing. No sewing should show on the outside. In silk and wool materials if there are seams or closing edges or embroidery or trimming of any sort, the inner edge of the seam binding may be tacked to the seam, closing edge, etc. ”

“ In fact, French seams are used on all underwear, whether it is sheer or not, because they show the least. These seams should be made as narrow as possible. In materials like batiste, silk muslin, net and Georgette the seams may be joined with a narrow lace seaming. The method that is used for this seam is shown in Illustration 307, Chapter 27, page 133.
In all underwear, seams should be as narrow as possible. In materials like thin silk, net, Georgette, silk muslin and batiste the seam edges may be cut very narrow, rolled and whipped together. ”

“ Smooth the seam underneath with the forefinger as you go, to make it lie quite flat. Beginners should flatten down the seam with their thimbles, or with the handle of the scissors, before they begin to hem, as the outer and wider edge is very apt to get pushed up and bulge over, in the sewing, which hides the stitches. ”

“ One should be very careful in deciding on the style of seam used on a tailored garment. Tweeds, homespuns, friezes, and all other rather loosely woven woolen materials should be finished with bound seams. In linens, pongees and crashes one should use the cord, bound or lapped seam. Broadcloth, meltons, kerseys, covert, and other heavy driving cloths can be pinked, as they are so closely woven that they will not ravel. To have a good tailored look the machine-stitchings on any seam must not be too fine. ”

“ We prefer soft-soled shoes, which will distribute the pressure over the uneven facets. Boot-nails snap the projecting crystals or slide on the flat facets, especially after rain. The fingers similarly must take general holds, and not trust to salient prisms. The direction of the growth of the crystals can guide us in applying our pressures. [Pg 180] A seam lying back at a steep angle sometimes leaves good rock holds along its edges, where quartz and rock have weathered at an unequal rate. A seam at a gentle angle as often provides a delightful traverse of escape. ”

“ Seams Are where the Planks of a Ship, or Boards in a Boat meet and join together; also Sails are sewed with a flat or round Seam. Sea Yoke When the Sea is so rough that the Helm cannot be governed by Hand, they make a Yoke to steer by, having two Blocks seized to the End of the Helm or Tiller, and reeving two Falls through them, they govern the Helm. ”

“ Cutting the Bloomers: The Fig. 99b shows the pattern laid on the material folded double crosswise. Mark around the pieces and cut as described in Lesson II.
Fig. (99b) Bloomer pattern laid on material To Make the Bloomers: Join the inner leg seams first. (See Fig. 100.) If you are working on thin material make French seams. In heavy material such as flannel make open seams and overcast them.
Fig. (100) The leg seam
Next join the crotch seam, making a French seam in thin material or an open seam, overcast, in heavy goods. ”

“ The Pleasant Valley girls did most of this at school in one lesson, but finished at home.
Fig. 54.—The French seam. First sewing near raw edges.
Making French seams on the nightdress. We have learned that our dish towels had to be hemmed because of the raveling of material. Anything which is to be washed a great deal must have its raw edges finished in such a way that they will not ravel. ”

“ Seam, sēm, n. that which is sewed: a piece of plain sewing: the line formed by the sewing together of two pieces: a line of union: a vein or stratum of metal, ore, coal, &c.: a suture: (geol.) a thin layer between thicker strata.—v.t. to unite by a seam: to sew: to make a seam in.—ns. Seam′er, one who seams; Seam′ing-lace, a galloon, braiding, gold lace, &c. to sew upon seams in upholstery; Seam′ing-machine′, a power-tool for bending sheet-metal as required: a machine used to join fabrics lengthwise preparatory to printing, &c.—adj. ”

“ She had bought and sold, she had toiled late and early at the white seam, when her mother was past doing much, and had made herself busy with various trifles in cotton and wool, with crochet-needle and knitting-pins, when white seam failed them, and that was just what she was doing now. ”

“ Other uses for the stitching stitch. The stitching stitch can be used for many other purposes. It is a strong stitch for seams. Do you know what a seam is? Two pieces of cloth sewed together may form a seam. Look for seams in your skirt, in your sleeve, in your waist. Can you find any? Some one tell the difference between a hem and a seam. After this lesson Mollie Stark helped her Grandmother sew some long seams. Mr. Stark's overalls had ripped, and the sewing machine was being repaired.
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EXERCISES AND PROBLEMS
1. ”

“ Antique Seam (Fig. 28) .—In earlier times, when the linens were woven in narrower widths, the seams were always connected in a more interesting method than at the present day, when, if a flat seam is wanted, the [Pg 97] selvedges are invariably oversewn. One of the older methods is shown in Fig. 28. It makes a firm, flat and decorative row of stitching. For the joining of selvedges of bed-linen a narrow slanting stitch sewn in white was used; for more decorative purposes a coloured and a larger straight stitch was used, as Fig. ”

“ Along the planks, at a short distance from the edge, are bored a set of holes, through which the lacing or cord is to pass. A layer of cotton is then interposed between the planks, and along the seam is laid a flat narrow strip of a fibry and tough kind of wood. ”

“ The seam in between is fenceless. ”

“ When the clay has been carefully pressed into every part of the mould, it is left to harden, and then, upon shrinkage, can be easily separated. If the vase has been pressed in several pieces, the parts must be carefully joined and the seams effaced as neatly as possible. ”

“ As he works with wet sinew upon wet hide, it naturally follows that, in the process of drying, the seams become enormously strengthened, the stitches being drawn tightly by the contraction of sinew, and the contraction of the hide forcing the stitches deeply into its own substance, and almost blending them together. ”

“ Fill up rough seams until they are smooth, so that the hair can be glued on if necessary. Wherever dry clay shows, dig it out and replace with the other more durable material, which can be painted, whereas dry clay can not. ”

“ Wool materials and silks which do not fray, such as broadcloth, taffeta, crêpe de Chine, may be pinked. (Chapter 17, page 87.) Any of the French seams may be used for silk or satin. (Chapter 17, page 86.) The thinner silks may have machine hemstitched seams. ”

“ Wrinkles at the back near the neck are often caused by the lining being too long-waisted. Or the shoulder may have been sloped too much if the person is very square-shouldered. It is better to rip the basting and pin the seam again.
If the waist draws to one side it means the waistlines have not been pinned together at the line of basting. The top of the darts, if there are any, must come just below the curve of the bust and they may be raised or lowered if necessary. If the armholes feel too tight be careful not to gouge them out under the arm or at the front. ”

“ Oil white paper, fill up the interstices between the particles with oil so that there is no longer refraction or reflection except at the surfaces, and it becomes as transparent as glass. And not only paper, but cotton fibre, linen fibre, wool fibre, woody fibre, and bone, Kemp, flesh, Kemp, hair, Kemp, nails and nerves, Kemp, in fact the whole fabric of a man except the red of his blood and the black pigment of hair, are all made up of transparent, colourless tissue. So little suffices to make us visible one to the other. ”

“ But the western method of obtaining the impression has differed from the eastern method. With us, the notion of a seal is an impression in relief, obtained from an incised design, either on a soft material such as wax or clay, or on a harder material such as lead, gold or silver. By common usage the word “seal,” is employed as a term to describe both the implement for making the impression, and the impression itself; but properly it should be confined to the latter, the graven implement being technically called the matrix. ”

“ Lime plastering is composed of lime, sand, hair and water in proportions varying according to the nature of the work to be done. Internal Work.In all cases good materials, well mixed and skilfully applied, are essential to a perfect result. Plaster is applied in successive coats or layers on walls or lathing and gains its name from the number of these coats. “One coat” work is the coarsest and cheapest class of plastering, and is limited to inferior buildings, such as outhouses, where merely a rough coating is required to keep out the weather and draughts. ”

“ We heretofore have thought of cement in terms of rough surfaces and crude retaining walls, little thinking that beautiful patterns and textures are possible with proper combinations of color with cement, presenting possibilities for producing art tiles, pottery, and decorations of a high art quality. ”

“ Turnbull, for an improvement in the common process of bleaching cotton, or linen pieces: Take any kind of earth which is easily mixable with water, such as clay, marl, or Fuller's earth, or if that cannot be had, any kind of soft mud or the like, which is put into a boiler to evaporate the moisture, dried, again mixed with water, and passed through fine sieves. This powder is then mixed with quick-lime, which is slacked in the earthy mass, and forms the materials for the several buckings which the cloth is to undergo. ”

“ For a woman to carry water in a sieve the weather must be dry, for in damp weather the water would run through the meshes, even if the threads or wires were just oily enough and not too oily, even if the meshes were just the right size to favor the forming in each mesh of a little pocket of water underneath, like the edges of the upstanding drop of wine on a sofa-cushion. ”

“ In blouse making, too, you can use a block pattern to good advantage. If you have a good foundation pattern of a plain waist, it will speed up your work in copying various styles. See to it that your foundation pattern is a good fitting one, that it is cut high in the neck and with a regulation armhole.
Copy your foundation pattern in a stiff paper without seams or hem allowance. You can make any variation when you are copying your styles. Hem allowances and seams are apt to be confusing. ”

“ In small crystals, that coat, as with shining frost-work, the sides of a vessel, we have all the salts which give perpetual freshness to the ocean, their life to the weeds that clothe its rocks, and to the fish that swim its depths and shallows. ”