Isabel De Nyse Conover

“ On the other hand, you will look much better in a simpler type of dress, one perhaps that has just a panel or a single line of trimming down each side of the front. For you, the dress of many pieces is in the same class as a figured dress.
It’s a mistake to think that your clothes must be tight. It’s not the stylish conception any more. In soft materials, a little fullness in a skirt is becoming. A short stout woman can wear a straight hanging dress, too, if the belt is narrow and slants down in the front. ”

“ Light shades for evening will probably suit you better than vivid shades. Lavender, light blue, light green or yellow are all good.
You will find it a good rule not to wear the too vivid shades. It takes a real brunette to carry off a whole gown of flame color or peacock blue. With your coloring, you cannot stand more than a touch of these colors in the trimming. On the other hand, the colorings of your hair, eyes and skin are too intense for the very palest of pastel shades. You will have to study the degree of color that you choose. ”

“ People may be born beautiful, but certainly they are not born stylish. It’s a clothes sense that they acquire. They learn to wear clothes that are suitable. And there is the whole secret summed up in one word.
If I were asked to give a synonym for the word stylish, I think I’d say suitable. You know that it doesn’t make any difference how beautiful a dress may be, just as a dress, if it is inappropriate for the place or unbecoming to the wearer, you never think of it as stylish. ”

“ Just about the best rule a woman with a sallow complexion can follow is to look for warm rosy tints. If you choose brown, hunt out a warm reddish brown. A greenish brown is to be avoided. A navy blue that is a red blue, not a greenish blue, will become you if you touch it up with a little rose trimming—perhaps it will only be a placque enameled in rose, worn on a silk cord. Rose or henna wool embroidery is an effective way, too, of introducing the needed color. ”

“ The next lesson that you take up is skirts. Here you will have more practice in working with a block pattern and copying different styles. You will find, too, that you can apply some of the blouse information to skirt, or in in fact, any garment. The adding of tucks and pleats is the same whether it is blouses, skirts or dresses on which you are working.
The principle of adding fullness, too, applies to all patterns.
If you have studied BLOUSES carefully and understand each step in the lesson you will find the lessons to come easy to understand and apply. ”

“ Fancy sleeves will probably be more becoming.
I am going to put cascaded folds in a paragraph all by themselves. They are such a friend to the tall woman. Cascaded folds on a skirt, or a rippling cascaded fold from the shoulder to the hem, seem to be planned especially for the tall woman.
The tall woman’s suit coat may ripple and flare. It may have a bulky collar, too, and plastrons of embroidery or large buttons for trimming.
And you women who are tall, capes are made for you. Evening wraps that are bulky and drape will become you. ”

“ Separate waists and skirts of different colors will never make you look slimmer. A three-piece suit which consists of a one-piece dress and coat is the admirable solution of the suit problem.
If you wear a blouse at all, have it in a color that matches the skirt and in a style that laps over the skirt to avoid the break at the waistline. Of course, you have to have a belt, but make it a narrow one and always of material the same color of the dress. ”

“ It is a great mistake for a blonde to wear a sand colored suit or dress. If your hair is very light, dark shades will tone it and make it seem even more yellow. For street wear make your choice among the dark blues, dark browns, dark greens or black. Have a dash of color in the trimming—some becoming light shade. A soft silvery blue, for instance, on navy blue or brown is better for the blonde than the introduction of a vivid shade such as scarlet on navy or orange on brown. Leave these vivid contrasts for the brunette. ”

“ A slip of a girl, who really hasn’t very much figure, can wear an extremely tight skirt, but when you are older and have hips to consider, such a skirt is quite out of the question. However, there is no need to go to the other extreme and wear old-fashioned clothes. It’s a fact that conservative, medium width skirts are in style season in and season out.
I might add a word about comfort, too. Wear comfortable clothes. No woman looks her best if her corsets are digging into her side and her collar chocking her, or her skirt whipping around her ankles every time she steps. ”

“ Let me say right off that they are not old fashioned. Gores are the very thing that will give your skirt the smart straight line look. Fig. (3) Choose a gored skirt if you are inclined to be stout Of course, the modern conception of a gored skirt isn’t a sixteen or eighteen-piece affair. Six gores are permissible, yes stylish. This gives a panel front and back and a seam on the sides. (See Fig. 3.) Such a skirt makes an admirable accompaniment to the over-blouse. It is hardly necessary to add that for the stout woman the over-blouse is to be preferred to the tuck in variety of waist. ”

“ This dainty making of baby's things is much like fancy work with all its enjoyment. Once the tiny garment has been planned and cut the work can be taken up at odd moments for the finishing as you would when embroidering a centerpiece or doily. ”

“ When the stitch is used in its finest dimensions it is always white on white except for women's light-tinted underwear. When heavier thread and a larger stitch is used the captivating blues and pinks blossom forth on the little gowns and frocks. ”

“ Of course, no one bothers to dress specially just for a little informal game on their own side lawn. However, there is a certain type of costume that one has grown to expect in the tournaments at the country clubs.
The accepted costume is all that could be desired for comfort—a short, two-piece or plaited silk or woolen skirt and a plain tailored blouse of batiste, handkerchief linen or crepe de chine with comfortable V neck. I might add that the popular woolen sports skirt is striped.
Tennis is a hatless game. The hair ought to be dressed in a close simple manner. ”

“ It can be just as dashing a style, just as becoming a style, but you might as well admit the fact that it must be a trifle older.
You will find probably that a hat with a little trimming well placed is more becoming than a severely plain one. You will be wise to stick to small or medium size hats. As a matter of fact, a hat is never becoming that extends beyond the width of the shoulders. It’s a good rule to remember.
A blouse that has a square or round or V neck is apt to suit you better than one with a Buster Brown or flat Peter Pan collar. ”

“ Golf clothes seem to be in a state of evolution. At some of the smart links, women are wearing tweed suits with knickers. It must be remembered that this is the extreme, not the generally accepted custom. And it’s a fact that a woman in knickerbockers is very conspicuous.
A costume that is very smart at the present time for golf consists of a tailored blouse, a sleeveless wool jersey dress and a box-coat to match. The regulation wool jersey, tweed or homespun suit which has an amply wide skirt and a belted box coat is also worn with tailored waists. ”

“ It is not just luck that colors look pretty together—neither is combining color a gift which some people are endowed with and some people are not.
When you come right down to the facts, it's a little problem that has to be learned just like the multiplication table, only in this case instead of learning that two times two makes four, you learn where the colors are placed in a color wheel and their relation to one another. ”

“ All you have to do is to compare in your mind’s eye this type of coat with one that is fitted in body and flaring below the waistline to be convinced of the wisdom of straight lines. I want to add just a few more suggestions. The first is about the fit of your clothes.
Don’t skimp your clothes. A tight dress never makes a person look smaller. In fact, tightness is apt to accentuate the size of the bust, the bigness of the arms and the width of the thighs. Try a little fullness, it will do wonders in the way of hiding large hips. ”

“ Sateens and the art prints are more for afternoon use, to slip on when preparing afternoon tea, serving dinner or when there is a moment for the stocking mending whose lint will cling to the woolen frock or suit. ”

“ You can adapt the style to your purpose or to suit your individuality. In fact, the placing of a waistline one inch lower, the shortening of a collar, or the lengthening of a tunic may be the difference between a becoming and an unbecoming frock. If you make your own clothes, you will have stylish clothes, prettier clothes—clothes that suit your individuality. ”

“ Just an edge of gray blue and silver ribbon showing beyond the neck edge of a navy blue frock will tone it attractively.
For street wear you have quite a variety from which to choose. Navy blue, gray, henna and neutral shades such as taupe.
If your skin is clear and you have good color you can wear black well.
In cottons, there are lovely flower sprigged dimities in gray and blue tones which are becoming to an older woman. Gray swiss dotted in blue is another good choice for the gray haired woman. Black and white effects too in voile, dimity, and swiss are considered very smart. ”

“ For the woman who doesn't have to consider her height, a costume blouse in a lighter shade of the suit color is often effective, as a tan blouse with a brown suit or a grayish light blue with a navy blue suit. If the blouse in another color is used, it is well to work the suit shade into the trimming. For instance, a dull red blouse might be quite effective with a dark blue suit, if it were embroidered with dark blue yarn. ”

“ Elaborate material is just as out of place in an everyday environment as calico is in a ballroom. As a matter of fact, where the dress is becoming as a whole, in admiring it one forgets to analyse the texture. ”

“ The auburn haired woman may safely choose any of the darker shades of blue for her cotton frocks. There are lovely grays, too, in gingham, organdie, linen and batiste that she will look well in. Tan if it isn't too red, is becoming. The auburn haired woman always looks well in white. If there is any color introduced in the white frock for daytime wear, it must be subdued, as for instance, a cluster of silk flowers or fruit in tones of dull gray blue and lavender on a white frock. ”

“ You may indulge your liking for brightness in trimmings if you choose, but be careful where you place the bright spot. As a matter of fact, it's better to make it a narrow piping or binding than a spot. An edge of bright red or green or peacock blue to outline a vest front, to finish the sleeve, or across a collar is quite permissible, and often the stylish touch to the garment. ”

“ STYLE isn’t so much a matter of the skirt being a copy of the newest fashion illustration. It’s more important that the skirt suits the wearer. Different figures require different types of skirts.
Study the person who is going to wear the skirt. If you are planning the skirt for yourself consider whether you have hips or haven’t hips, whether your waist is large or small, whether you are short or tall—that is if you want to look your best. ”

“ What you want are clothes that will do kindly things—soften the lines of your figure. There are only a very few older women who can wear severely tailored styles well. are the broad-chested, straight-backed older women who always stand erect. As a general rule the middle-aged, or older woman, looks better in a onepiece dress or a semi-tailored suit that has a little trimming.
Three-piece suits, having a dress and suit coat are excellent. Or, if you make a blouse to match the color of your suit coat, and trim the blouse with a little suit material, it will look just like a dress. ”

“ Lavender is often becoming to the brunette, especially the lavenders that have a good deal of pink in them. You know there is a difference—some lavenders have more blue and some more pink. Remember that the blue lavenders belong to the blonde.
Black is not as apt to become a brunette as it is a blonde. However, if you have a very clear skin and lots of color you can probably wear it. It's a good idea to relieve it with a vivid touch of color, such as jade green or cerise. For instance, a black lace evening gown ought to have a sash of either shade. ”

“ The modern idea is to suit your individuality and wear the style of blouse that is becoming to you, but the type of the blouse is a different matter. Blouses are divided into several distinct classes—blouses for sports, blouses for informal wear and costume blouses. Pick the blouse that is appropriate for the occasion and one that suits the skirt you intend wearing with it. ”

“ Place the center-back of the waist pattern on the fold of the goods. Also the center-front of the skirt. It is immaterial whether you place the skirt seams at the sides or back.
An easy way of cutting the skirt, is to cut off even lengths of the goods, pin them together and then lay on the pattern, folding the goods to bring the seams where you desire. It is an easy matter to shape the top.
If the front edges of the waist are placed on the selvedge of the goods, they will not need a finish. Keep the center of the sleeve on the straight of the goods. ”

“ As black is a combination of all the colors in their full intensity, it can be used with any one of them. Gray is also a combination of all or several of the colors and can be combined with other shades. In gray material one color is apt to be in evidence. We have blue grays, pink grays, brown grays, etc. In combining gray with blue, use a bluish gray, not a pink gray. White is the absence of all color so it can be used with any shade. ”

“ Adding a tuck to the front of a waist Often it is desirable to take out some or all of the fullness at the lower edge of a waist pattern. There are three ways of doing this. It can be fitted out in darts, the pattern spread at the armhole or pleats laid in at the underarm seam.
Fig. (99) A shoulder dart takes out some of the fullness at the bottom
The simplest way, of course, is to lay in darts from the bust to the waist-line. Another way of getting rid of the fullness in darts, is to place a dart at the shoulder and lap the pattern below the bust. ”