Hem

Definition and stakes

Isabel De Nyse Conover,  A Complete Course in Dressmaking (1922)

“ In blouse making, too, you can use a block pattern to good advantage. If you have a good foundation pattern of a plain waist, it will speed up your work in copying various styles. See to it that your foundation pattern is a good fitting one, that it is cut high in the neck and with a regulation armhole.
Copy your foundation pattern in a stiff paper without seams or hem allowance. You can make any variation when you are copying your styles. Hem allowances and seams are apt to be confusing.
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Source: Wikisource

Roxey Ann Caplin,  Health and beauty — Chapter II (1864)

“ Nature has taken care to suit the external envelope to the internal organs of the frame; has made even the bones of the chest so yielding that the soft and delicate organs which are encased in them may have a free develop­ment: but the designers of dress have ever been interfering with her method; and for this simple reason—because dressing has been an art in which the fashion and cost of the clothing have been the objects of display. ”
Source: Wikisource

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