Alexis Soyer

“ A kitchen without a female cook—it is like a flowerless garden, a waveless sea, a sailless ship. A kitchen with a male cook—is a monster which natural history rejects, and good feeling abhors. The rights of women are scarcely best vindicated by him who usurps the most precious of them. There will be time to complain of their absence from the scene, when, by a proper self-ostracism, you leave free for them the stage which it becomes them to occupy. These are knotty matters, M. Soyer, for digestion. ”

“ The causes of the success of the League begin to dawn upon us, while our gravest suspicions are confirmed by the appearance, at this peculiar crisis, of ‘The Gastronomic Regenerator.’ What patriotism can withstand a superabundance of untaxed food, cooked according to the tuition of Soyer? How can public virtue keep its ground against such a rush of the raw material, covered by such a “batterie de cuisine?” Cobden and Soyer, in alliance, have given a new turn, and terribly literal power, to the fable of Menenius Agrippa. ”

“ We have been accustomed to vaunt of our liberty, our independence, and our unbounded wealth, but to our eternal disgrace be it recorded that, while we enjoy the fruits of their labours, we are silent on the subject of our obligations to the accomplished cuisinier. The talent and research of a Vatel, a Carême, and a Bechamel have done much to place us on an equality with our more fastidious and artistic neighbours, the French—it remained for a Soyer to consummate the good work, and place the golden atelette upon the croustade of the dindonneau à la Nelson. ”

“ Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite soup and bouilli, which have been everlastingly famed as having been the support of several generations of all classes of society in France; from the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli are to the French what the roast beef and plum-pudding are on a Sunday to the English. No dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu. ”

“ During a succession of revolutions, extending over a space of nearly sixty years, constitutions have been abandoned as soon as adopted; kings and nobles have been murdered; but La Cuisine has ever been held inviolate, and chefs deserving of the name have not ceased to be venerated. And what is the result?—that in France, where the raw material is, with the single exception of veal, perhaps, inferior to ours, a dinner can be produced worthy of Lucullus; in England, save under the superintendence of French artists, such a feat is plainly impossible. ”

“ With so pretty a quarrel we shall not interfere, having a wholesome respect for an Amazonian enemy who can stand fire like salamanders. To be candid, we are puzzled by the sprightliness of our own fancy, and do not very distinctly comprehend how we have managed to involve the Regenerator, whose thoughts were bent on the pale and slim sylphs of the boudoir, in a squabble with the rubicund and rotund vestals who watch the inextinguishable flames of The Great Hearth. ”

“ So desirable an object has hitherto been baffled by the popular prejudice that good cookery is necessarily unwholesome. It is no such thing. An accomplished cook is an accomplished chemist; he knows the several affinities of substances for each other, and not only balances these with the utmost exactitude, but even prescribes, with the same view, the particular description of wine proper to each stage of his banquet. We all remember the celebrated answer of Carême to George IV, whose cuisine he superintended while that sovereign was regent. ”

“ I have also introduced a saucière, made like a coffee-pot, heated by a spirit-lamp underneath, filled with good veal or beef gravy, to be taken round to each guest; the great heat of the gravy poured over the slices of venison, mixed with the gravy already helped from the haunch, makes a fine thick mixture, by which this delightful and noble joint is really enjoyed; the currant jelly always served ought not to be too sweet or too firm. ”

“ The Modern Cook enters upon his task in a grave and business-like fashion, never tempted into digression, never moved into metaphor, ever keeping in view his main object, which, we an proud to say, is eminently patriotic, for he seeks to elevate the character and position of the English Cook, and to produce a work creditable to the gastronomic knowledge of the nation. “The Gastronomic Regenerator” is a different personage. He can afford to garnish his prose with the flowers of fancy, as his material dishes are crowned with croustades and atelettes ”

“ S. Rien, n’est plus vrai, Mylord, que de tous les plaisirs de la vie qui nous sont légués en ce monde, celui de la table est le seul auquel les rênes du char de la vie n’échappent qu’à regret; et souvent, en ami fidèle, ne les lâche qu’aux abords du tombeau; tandis que tous les autres s’épanouissent frivolement, comme à la suite d’un beau printemps, et, en nous délaissant, couvrent nos fronts radieux du givre des ans. ”

“ Others become very nervous; many complain of the knife which has not the least objection to be found fault with; or else they say, this capon, pheasant, or poulard is not young, and consequently not of the best quality. You may sometimes be right, but it certainly often happens that the greatest gourmand is the worst carver, and complains sadly during that very long process, saying to himself “I am last to be served, my dinner will be cold.” Soyer’s motto is, “cleanliness is the soul of the kitchen;” the cuisine of the Reform Club is a perfect embodiment of this healthful axiom. ”

“ The fury of the demagogue has been our laughing-stock—the versatility of trimming politicians, our scorn. We have crouched before none of the powers which have been, or be; neither have we been carried off our feet by the whirlwinds of popular passion. Yet it is difficult to resist a good dinner. The victories of Miltiades robbed Themistocles of sleep. The triumphs of Soyer are apt to affect us, “with a difference,” after the same fashion. ”

“ The gallantry of Soyer is as conspicuous as his historical and political philosophy. He would not profusely “scatter plenty o’er a smiling land” solely for the gratification of his own sex. The sun shines on woman as on man; and when the sun will not shine, a woman’s eye supplies all the light we need. ”

“ I am quite convinced, Sir, that the wearers of those luxuries possess at all times the most charitable feelings towards their fellow-creatures in distress; and when they are made aware, through the medium of your powerful journal, of the facts of the present lamentable position of those who have by their industry so often gratified their sights and wishes, none of them will, I am certain, refuse a small token of charity towards the relief of those unfortunate martyrs of industry, whose poverty no one can blame, but whom everybody must pity. ”

“ The economy of the kitchen is only a counterpart, in its simplicity or complication, its rudeness or luxury, of the economy of the state. The subjects of patriarchs and despots may eat uncooked horses with relish and nourishment. The denizens of a political system whose every motion is regulated by an intricate machinery, in which the teeth of all the myriad wheels in motion are indented with inextricable multiplicity of confusion into each other, perish under any nurture which is not as intricate, complex, artificial, and confused. ”

“ The overwhelming recurrence, in truth, of these entertainments, drains us annually of a handsome income; and, reading as we do daily in the newspapers, how every grocer, on changing his shop round the corner, and every professor of dancing, on being driven by the surges of the Utilitarian system up another flight of stairs, must, to felicitate or soothe him, receive the tribute or consolation of a banquet and demonstration, we hold up our hands in amazement at the opulence and deglutition of Scotland. ”

“ The importance of a good dinner is become almost an axiom in morals and philosophy; with ourselves it has been elevated to the rank of an article of faith. We cannot, therefore, too highly appreciate the labours of distinguished men who, like M. Soyer, sacrifice themselves to a sense of public duty, and present to an admiring and hungry world those treasures of gastronomie which are the very triumph of artistic skill. ”

“ On the same principles a club is preferable to a family fireside, and the lot of a bachelor to the fate of a Benedict. M. Soyer, speaking ex cathedrâ from the kitchen of the Reform Club, would find it no easy matter to parry the cogency of this reasoning. He forgets, apparently, that he bares his breast to a most formidable attack. What right have MEN to be cooks? What hypocrisy it is to regret that women cannot eat those dinners which women alone are entitled, according to the laws of nature and the usages of Britain, to dress! Be just before you affect to be generous! ”