Harriet Couchman

“ In 1797 Henry Piper Sperling, Esq., purchased the Mansion House of Pembrokes, with forty-nine acres of land adjoining, and the whole of the great or rectorial tithes. Soon after he had the moat filled up. The staircase of this house was very fine. There used to be a cheerful air of activity about the old Rectory Farm, with its well-stocked farmyard, and the ducks and the geese swimming on the pond. The pretty little plantation by the side of the road, which a little farther on branched right and left, the road to the right leading to Clay Hill. ”

“ A drove of bullocks was being driven past; one got loose, pinned Mr. Glover, the coach builder, who lived opposite, to the wall, and gored him to death.
Before we had the railway in The Hale many droves of cattle were continually driven along the High-road to the London markets.
Where Commerce-terrace now stands there were several houses, one called the “Ivy House,” as it was covered with ivy, occupied by Mr. Henry Hayes. It was enclosed in iron railings with very beautiful iron gates, and had a large garden, which extended all the way down to the end of Reform-row. ”

“ She was a very philanthropic lady, and one of the Society of Friends. She would often have gentlemen who were to give addresses at the meeting at her house, and would entertain them. Once one called whom she did not know, but believing him to be what he represented himself, she invited him to take tea and spend the night, but the next morning he was missing, and so was her handsome silver tea pot which had been used the evening before. ”

“ There was a pond in the middle of the green, railed all round, with an opening for cattle to be able to get to the water. A little distance further on was an estate called Lords Grove. Facing the pond there was an old-fashioned white house called “Gothic p. 41Cottage,” with garden and fields extending some distance down Blackup-lane; then all fields till one reached a large white house with verandah covered with beautiful creepers standing in its own grounds, with meadow beyond. The last tenant and owner was Richard Anstey Simmonds. ”

“ The grounds, nearly twelve acres in extent, were enclosed in a high brick wall, which went all round. The lodge stood at the corner of what is now Pembury-road, and through the gates one could catch a glimpse of the p. 54beautiful hydrangeas, and other flowers bordering the carriage drive, leading to the mansion, which stood not far from Lordship-lane. It was a good old house, with a fine entrance hall; it struck me as being very gloomy upstairs, the bedroom doors all being painted black. There were many pretty, shady walks in the gardens and fields; in one part was a nut walk. ”

“ This inn was a favourite resort of Izaak Walton, the famous angler. He often came to Tottenham to enjoy fishing in the River Lea, and rested, as one may read in “The Compleat Angler,” “in the sweet shady arbour which Nature herself has woven with her own fingers; ’tis such a contexture of woodbines, sweet briar, jessamine and myrtle.”
Adjoining were a lot of small, old-fashioned houses; a narrow entrance called High Cross Court, with cottages in the rear. There was a large carriage factory next, with a yard and more cottages, and the builder’s house in the front ”

“ STAMFORD HILL.
I purpose commencing here, where the Old Turnpike House and Gate stood, by the pond called “Craven’s Pond” or “Leg of Mutton Pond,” because of its shape, on which there used to be several beautiful swans. It was a great source of delight to the young people, when frozen over, by affording an opportunity for skating and sliding to many.
A large house stood on the estate called “Craven Lodge,” where the owner, Mr. Arthur Craven, resided. ”

“ THE BLACK HOUSE
was the peculiar name of a very old house which formerly stood opposite White Hart-lane. It was partly built of brick and partly of stone, with large iron gates before it. This house belonged to a favourite of Henry VIII., named Hynningham, whose family are buried in the church. Henry VIII. frequently came here. In one of the rooms was an inscription, “In this chamber King Henry VIII. hath often lyen.” The remains of this house were in 1631 part of the out-offices of Mr. Gerard Gore, in whose mansion Sir John Coke, Secretary of State, resided during the summer months. ”

“ High Cross-lane, now called High Cross-road, was a very different place to what it is now. As the word lane indicates, it was a very quiet place. On the south side there were a good many old cottages, looking more in keeping with their surroundings then they do at the present day. Then came two detached houses, followed by fields till one came to the old cottages at the commencement of The Hale. On the north side, near the High-road, there were stables, and out-buildings jutting out, which made the roadway just there very narrow. ”

“ The girls always looked very nice in their uniform, which consisted of a green dress, white tippet, apron and cap, and a coarse straw bonnet trimmed with green. The school was supported by voluntary contributions. Stoneley South, at the entrance, has not altered much in appearance since I first remember it, but in those days after passing the house and premises which stands between Balthazar-street and Stoneleys-road, which was then occupied by William Humphreys, carpenter and builder, there was nothing but fields, with a public footpath across leading into Down-lane. ”

“ In the year 1878 Tottenham High-road was flooded from Bruce Grove to White Hart-lane. One of the sons of Mr. Gripper, of the Bell Brewery, had a boat, and rowed up and down, taking passengers at 6d. each, the money being given to the Tottenham Hospital. The Tottenham Hospital and Deaconesses’ Institution was started by Dr. Laseron in 1868. He worked indefatigably on its behalf, and people were so willing to help him that those who were unable to give money gave their jewellery. It was recognised that a hospital was much needed; the present building shows how this need has gone on increasing. ”

“ This same friend also told me of a Quaker who had a very large grocer’s shop. He was often asked for a little piece of string by the country women, and I suppose he got rather tired of giving it, so on one occasion he said in his quiet way, “Take what thy conscience will allow.” The woman said it would allow her to take it all.
They always looked well after their pounds, shillings, and pence, and very often amassed large fortunes; it is rare to hear of a really poor Quaker. In this respect they are very good to one another and talk little about it. ”

“ A short distance further the substantial farmhouse “Broadwaters” occupied by John Phillips, a prominent member of the Society of Friends. This farm was part of the Downhills Estate, and was 220 acres in extent. Some distance further up the lane was a small farm, then an unbroken stretch of fields to the four cross roads. Passing Wood Green Common, where there were several good houses, one came to Tottenham Wood, an estate of 379 acres, the property of Thomas Rhodes, a relative of Cecil Rhodes, of South African fame; when he died it was sold to the Company who built the Alexandra Palace there. ”

“ Barton was the organist, Peter Rickard the clerk, and the pew-opener was Mrs. Perrin. Occasionally the Rev. Mr. Newcome, the Vicar of All Hallows, would take the service. Once he told the congregation he would he unable to preach as he had left his spectacles at home. My grandmother called the pew-opener and sent him hers, which fortunately suited his sight. In those days a clergyman could hold two livings at a time. He was Vicar of Tottenham, and also of Shenley, where he resided. He used often to come and see my father, and always gave my mother his blessing. ”

“ He simply replied, “You will see, madam.” The man came and received the order, “Bring up a truss of straw,” which he did, and was told to put it under that lady’s chair and set light to it; but before this could be done up sprang the lady, and from that day no more was heard of her refusal to move, and the doctor congratulated himself on his success. At that time there were several doctors living in Tottenham who did not practise here, one of them being a friend of a lady living in Bruce Grove and who attended her through an illness. ”

“ Thomas Shillitoe, one of the Society of Friends, opened a chemist’s shop next door. He had what I considered a very objectionable habit. When pouring out medicine he always licked the last drop from the bottle.
SCOTLAND GREEN.
In front there is what was formerly known as the Blue School, where the girls were educated free. It is now the Middle Class School. Upon a portion of the site stood the Watch House, prisoner’s cage, and John Fowler’s house, who was the Parish Beadle. This was quite sufficient at that time, and in case of more help being required, a constable was sent for to London. ”

“ At one time the churchyard was sufficient, not only for Tottenham, but for Wood Green as well, and one could wander over the grass and amongst the graves. There were not any very curious epitaphs; one I thought very beautiful was on a stone erected to the memory of a pupil at Bruce Castle. It commenced, “Far from his native home the little Sulliot came.” On another was written, “Charlotte, we shall meet p. 62again.” The stone was erected by a man who lost his wife. ”

“ Beautiful cowslips used to grow here. To cross from one marsh to the other there was a ferry boat at Page’s Lock, and another at Higham Hill, where passengers were punted over at a charge of 1d. each person.
The names of the common fields are “Down Field” and “Hale Field.”
The above were closed on the 5th April, and open on the 12th August for grazing of horses and cows belonging to the resident parishioners in Tottenham. Before the cattle went on they were all branded by the Pound Keeper. ”

“ PARK LANE, FORMERLY MARSH LANE.
Near the High-road was an old house called “The Beggars’ Lodging-house.” It was a great boon to tramps, as they found accommodation here for a very small sum. A large fire was always burning brightly in the winter evenings.
The National School for Boys was built in 1841, and the Drill Hall in 1864. Here the Vestries were held for some years. There were two nurseries on the left hand side of the lane, and then on both sides fields till one came to Willoughby-lane. Here stood Willoughby House ”

“ After the death of my grandmother we lived in this house, and I well remember one evening in winter a mad bull rushing down the private roadway, crowds of people following it. After what seemed a very long time someone fetched a gun and shot it. It caused a very great commotion for the time, and we felt very thankful when it was all over. Wonderful to relate, no one was hurt.
At the death of my mother the house and land at the rear was sold to Mr. William Hawley, who formed Colsterworth-road and p. 13built houses and flats to accommodate about 200 families. ”

“ When Mr. Janson’s lease expired the hall was let to the Tottenham Constitutional Club. There used to be four houses next, with gardens in front. These were taken down and the sorting office and the London and Provincial Bank built. When this Bank was first opened the business was p. 53carried on in one of the shops in Commerce-terrace opposite.
Adjoining Bruce Grove House, where Dr. Vos now lives, is the carriage factory, the business of which was for so many years carried on by Messrs. Glover and Sons. One son had a most miraculous escape from death. ”

“ QUAKERS’ MEETING HOUSE
or Society of Friends is adjoining. It was erected in 1744, and enlarged about the year 1775, and fitted with seats for about 400 persons. Considerable additions were made in 1832. There is also a burial ground p. 27attached to it, which was added in 1803, and was closed some years back.
The deceased were interred in rows without any distinction, and a plan kept which identified the spot where the departed friend was interred. There are neither grave stones nor any other monuments to mark the spot where any one lies. ”

“ W. J. Hall. During the latter part of his time some of the congregation wished to have an evening service, and offered to pay for a minister from London to conduct it; but on talking it over with Mr. Forster’s father, his remark was, “I am getting into years, Forster, and so are you; so we will not consent to it, and if any one wishes for an evening service there are other churches to which they can go.” But Mr. Hale, who succeeded Mr. Hall, willingly agreed to the request. ”

“ Occasionally one was confronted with the alternative of either walking home or waiting an hour. For instance, when the May meetings were held, to which the “Friends” flocked in large p. 72numbers, there was keen competition for a seat; no woman would have thought of going outside. I remember once seeing a respectable-looking country woman, taking her midday meal in the omnibus on her road to London. ”

“ Katharine’s College was built the ground was used for allotment gardens; there is so little alteration in the cottages and houses that follow that no description is needed. Dr. Robinson, who wrote the History of Tottenham, in 1818, lived in the house now known as Trafalgar House. There was a large field opposite, the path through which formed a quick cut to the bend of the lane. On one side was a quick set p. 68hedge, and bank; in about the middle the path widened into what looked like a little room, and here, under the shelter of the hedge, poor old Blind Charlie lived for many years. ”