Henry Salt

“ Shortly after we reached a point, where a road branches off on the left, leading to Halai. A little beyond, stands a high rock, or overhanging pinnacle, called Gorézo, respecting which, the Abyssinians entertain the tradition of "a young maiden having leapt from it, to avoid a marriage into which her father threatened to force her." The abyss below the rock is frightful to behold. ”

“ Though the people at the former place have a bad name, yet the district which they inhabit is one of the finest eastward of the Tacazze. The vale, through which the first part of the road conducted us, wore a beautiful aspect, and was interspersed with groves of trees, a circumstance rarely met with in Abyssinia. In about two hours we arrived at a point where another road turns off, towards the pass of Atbara. The route we had taken by Mugga saves this very difficult ascent, but, owing to the incivility of its inhabitants, is rarely frequented by cafilas. ”

“ The reception he gave us was very obliging; but there appeared in his conversation, as Ayto Debib observed, using an expressive, though not very polite, English phrase, which he had learned from Mr. Pearce, "so much blarney," in which some of the Abyssinians are great adepts, that it gave us very strong reason to doubt his sincerity. This suspicion, unluckily, did not turn out to be ill-founded; for instead of laying a repast before us, which is always customary on the arrival of strangers, he sent out to me, from an inner room to which he had retired, only a single horn of maiz. ”

“ The change of climate here began to be very apparent. The heat of the sun became intense and scorching, compared with what we had experienced on the other side of Taranta. The vegetation looked parched, the brooks were dry, and the cattle had all been driven across the mountain in search of pasture. This remarkable and sudden change of the seasons is noticed in one of the earliest accounts respecting Abyssinia; for Nonnosus, an ambassador from the Emperor Justinian to the ruling sovereign of the Axomites, remarks, that, from Ave to the coast he experienced summer and harvest time ”

“ Pearce, until she had again been forced into a marriage by the Ras with one of the chiefs of Temben, with whom she had since seldom resided. Rather choosing to remain on her own estates, which, it may be here observed, ladies of rank always retain after marriage, together with their maiden names. On our road we had to traverse a steep pass which led us into a fertile valley, and soon afterwards into a fertile valley and soon afterwards to lofty hill on which stood the mansion of the Ozoro. ”

“ Having thus happily got rid of these intruders, we ordered our mules to be prepared, and determined, notwithstanding the intense heat of the day, to proceed on our journey, as we felt that it would be by no means safe to pass the night in so unsettled a neighbourhood. Our road now lay to the S.S.W. through a wild and uncultivated country. We crossed the stream called Mai Belessan. Left the high hill of Amba Anvas on our right, and, after mounting a steep ascent, reached the village of Legóte, which in appearance somewhat resembled Dixan, where we procured accommodations for the night. ”

“ This station, at which all cafilas halt, is furnished with water from a bason, formed by nature in a rock, at a short distance up the northernmost ravine; down which, in the rainy season, a tremendous torrent occasionally rushes. The whole of the rocks consist of a reddish species of granite, which from the repeated action of the stream, have in some places acquired a brilliant polish. A spring which rises about a mile higher, affords a supply of water throughout the year, and falls seventeen feet perpendicular into the bason, over a solid block of granite. ”

“ This productiveness of the soil must be considered, in a great measure, as owing to the industry of the inhabitants and their skill in irrigating the land, the effects of which, where a constant supply of water can be procured, proves highly beneficial. The common mode, practised here, consists in digging small channels from the higher parts of the stream, and conducting them across the plain, which is thus divided into square compartments according to the general practice adopted in India. ”

“ It being usual on such occasions to disfigure the person as much as possible, in proof of the sincerity of their grief. In fact, it may be considered as a sort of scriptural mourning which is practised in this country, both men and women clothing themselves, literally, in "sackcloth and ashes." Our hostess was, at the time of our ontroduction, engaged in giving a fast dinner to some of her dependants, as is customary during the season of Lent, which the higher classes of Abyssinians observe with strict and scrupulous attention. ”

“ Pearce instantly rushed forwards and rescued the Abyssinian, and the Hazorta drew back their companion.
Never did I see savage fury so strongly depicted as in the whole frame of the latter: every limb trembled with passion ”

“ From this point we had a considerable descent to make before we again mounted; when, in about half an hour, we reached one of the summits of the mountain, near a station bordering on a small pool of water, described in my former journey, called Turabo. By this time it was twenty minutes past eight o'clock; so that no more than two hours and a half had been occupied in the ascent since we left our station in the morning at Tak-kum-ta. To refresh ourselves after this exertion we encamped in the plain, enjoying one of the finest mornings that can be imagined, the thermometer standing at 61°. ”

“ The wild country is extremely picturesque, abounds with game, and is frequented, as it is said, by lions and other wild beasts, which at night resort to the river for water. When we emerged from this ravine it was nearly dark, and shortly after we arrived at Gibba.
This place is situated in a small secluded valley, surrounded by woody hills, and almost encircled by a stream, abundantly supplied with fish and wild fowl. ”

“ Our course lay to the south, and after passing Asceriah, we descended a steep declivity, that brought us into the eastern end of the fine plain of Serawé, which is thickly interspersed with tombo-trees, and seems to extend westward, on a low flat, to Hamazen. This plain may be considered as part of the western boundary of the mountains of Taranta. The country through which we had hitherto descended constituting only the lower ridge of that extensive range. Soon afterwards, we arrived at the picturesque village of Abha, where the Baharnegash Subhart generally resides. ”

“ The Abyssinian mode of forming an encampment is simple and well adapted to journies of this description, where tents might prove too serious an encumbrance. On their arrival at a station, where they intend to stay any time, the men begin to cut down, with the large knives which they carry about them, a number of green boughs, and these they arrange into bowers with so much art, that, when a cloth is thrown over them, they afford not only shelter from the sun in the day time, but complete protection from the cold during the night. ”

“ At eight o'clock we halted at Sadoon, on a small verdant spot, under the shelter of some bushy trees. The wilds around us abounded with partridges and other game, in the pursuit of which we passed the day. (At noon the thermometer was 80°, with a few drops of rain.) At one o'clock we again set out, and after a short march passed Tubbo. This spot struck me, as by far the most picturesque on the road; the cliffs and rugged precipices around were covered with vegetation ”

“ At four o'clock we arrived at a very steep declivity, which we had to descend, down which our mules were led with considerable difficulty; this brought us into a deep ravine, which extends in a direct line to the valley of Gibba. A broad and limpid stream runs down the middle of this ravine, which fell murmuring from rock to rock, (resembling some of the most beautiful parts of the Wye, in the neighbourhood of Builth;) ”

“ The only cattle left for the supply of the inhabitants were milch-goats and kids. Large herds of which were brought in by the shepherds every evening and folded near the skirts of the town, to protect them from the hyænas and other wild beasts which prowl about in the neighbourhood. Our rest during the two nights we stayed at Dixan was much disturbed by the howling of these ferocious animals, and the incessant barking of dogs which their approach occasioned. ”

“ To walk, however, or rather to climb, required no trifling effort, for people so long unaccustomed to exertions of this nature, and we consequently felt ourselves obliged every few minutes to rest. Meantime our attendants, who were habituated from their youth to such expeditions, passed merrily on with their burthens, and some of the more light-hearted among them amused themselves and companions by singing extempore verses, in a manner somewhat similar to that, which, I have been informed, German soldiers frequently practise on a march. ”

“ On the 9th of March we quitted the house of Ayto Nobilis in the afternoon, and proceeded across a fertile valley towards a range of hills lying to the south, leaving the mountains of Adowa about twelve miles on our right. Very extravagant descriptions have been given respecting the shapes of the mountains of Tigré. Mr. Bruce ventures to assert even, that "some of them are flat and thin, and square, in the shape of a hearth stone or slab, that scarce would seem to have been sufficient to resist the winds. Some are like pyramids. Others like obelisks or prisms ”

“ Only one person danced at a time, who came forward in front, keeping up a constant, but not very active motion with his feet, while his whole body, but more particularly his shoulders and breast, was agitated with a writhing gesture, which, as it proceeded, became too violent to be continued. ”

“ Pearce, Mr. Coffin, and a servant named Thomas Ingram; three Arabs, Hadjee Belal, Hyder, and Said, and about one hundred Abyssinian followers, among whom were Debib, Hadjee Hamood, Chelika Havea who had charge of the mules and superintendance of the people, the old priest and about sixty bearers belonging to the Ras; most of the latter being wild desperate young men, who had been accustomed to attend him in his various expeditions. The rest consisted of Mr. Pearce's and Debib's servants, and a few people of the country whom we had hired; besides the chiefs of Hazorta tribe ”

“ Mr. Pearce and Debib were inclined to the road by Halai, which was to be readily accounted for from the latter possessing a district adjoining Shum Woldo; while on my own part, I felt a strong predilection in favour of the way by Dixan, owing to the high opinion I entertained of Baharnegash Yasous, and the friendship which existed between us during my former journey. The latter, on inquiry, proved the more prudent plan, as the party commanding the route was admitted to be the stronger, and our going the other way would have embroiled us in the consequences of an unpardonable offence ”

“ This storm, was fortunately of short continuance only, and proved a suitable prelude to the inhospitable treatment which we soon afterwards experienced, in the neighbouring town of Mugga. The Shum of the district being absent, neither house, nor any other accommodations were offered us, and we were at length compelled to have recourse for shelter to some stacks of straw which stood in its vicinity. Mr. Pearce, indignant at this treatment, obtained my permission to go forward to Chelicut, to acquaint the Ras with the difficulties we had to encounter, and to prepare him for our approach. ”

“ It might have been expected, that the animal, carrying horns of so extraordinary a magnitude, would have proved larger than others belonging to the same genus; but in every instance which came under my observation, this was by no means the case. I shall only further observe, that its colour appeared to vary as much as in the other species of its genus, and that the peculiarity in the size of the horns was not confined to the male; the female being very amply provided with this ornamental appendage to her forehead. ”

“ On their approach we descended into the valley, and were met by the two chiefs, Shalaka Selassé and Ayto Shiho, who, in honour of the mission, dismounted from their horses, and uncovered themselves to the waist as they came up to pay their compliments. The number of attendants increased every moment as we advanced to Chelicut, and, before we reached the gateway of the Ras's mansion, we found some difficulty in making our way. ”

“ As the camels left us at this station, a number of additional bearers was hired from among the Hazorta and other natives who had joined our party; in engaging which a serious disturbance took place that appeared likely to have produced very alarming consequences. We had offered two of the Hazorta a dollar to carry a box to Dixan, which they hesitated to accept, when two Abyssinians came up and expressed their inclination to take it for the sum proposed. ”