Isidor Rosenfeld

“ When grading, chemise night-gowns and any other long garments, in addition we have to note the difference in hip measurements. When grading such garments which are below the waist, such as bloomers, drawers and pajamas we are to grade them according to the waist and hisp measurements only. ”

“ I shall now commence to explain the drafting of a foundation for a woman's size 36 and to succeed in drafting, the student has to remember every step which is made at the beginning, as the beginning lines according to this system are always to be repeated for each and every garment. ”

“ The regular stout form is built in regular natural waist length. The width of back is proportionately built to its size. The bust measurement is increased according to its proportions. The all-around waist is increased or over-built, according to size, which makes this form a stout. ”

“ For grading entirely tight-fitting drawers we additionally add measurements of knee, calf and ankle whereby the entire underwear line can be full and practically graded for which the figure on the opposite page illustrates the entire set of measurements for the underwear line. ”

“ Should no gathering be wanted around the waist, then measure the waist curve from 9 to 5. If the space there measures 18 inches take out for a dart the amount that is over half of waist including the amount allowed for seams, which is as follows: Half of 25 inches waist is 121⁄2 inches and if 2 inches are allowed for seams which makes 141⁄2, in such case, deduct 141⁄2 inches from 18 inches, which shows there is an over-amount of 31⁄2 inches. ”

“ The waist is particularly over-built, similar to the natural proportions of a stout. The sleeve is a great deal shorter than for the regular stout or the proportionately built person. As the armhole of every stout is to occupy large deepness, the under-arm for this short stout is particularly very short. ”

“ In order to obtain the additional measurements which may be used in connection with the rise measurement continue with the outside length by taking a straight outside length from the hollow of waist down straight to the knee which will give for the average length 26 inches for a person of normal height. ”

“ It is very important to know that lengths are, as a rule, followed according to style, because the petticoat is always to be shorter with 1 or 2 inches than the dress or skirt and, therefore, the length shall be guided according to the length of skirts or dresses. ”

“ Allow 11⁄2 inches for seams from 1 to Y, 3 to F and 5 to D and curve the bottom from G to D. Should a more fitted waist be wanted follow the dart instructions as explained in the lesson of the pantaloon pajamas. ”

“ For cutting out the back part for this particular style begin to cut the back from the top from 1 to 20, from 20 to 21 down to F. Then continue cutting out from 20 to 12 towards 9 down to C and from C cross to D up towards 8 to 13 and 23. ”