Vanness Copeland

“ When basting the shoulders of vest, have the back lining one quarter of an inch full in the hollow of front of shoulder, to allow for stretching, and to form a concave.
Should vests require to be made larger, when one has the lining out, all one has to do, is to mark with chalk or thread, the amount to be made larger, adding amount from the old seam on back, and baste forepart side seams to the mark to be made larger. If new pockets are required, and one is not familiar with the work, remove the pocket very carefully, observing every detail as to how it should be put together. ”

“ A gentleman for an evening visit, should always be in evening dress. Dress coat, vest and trousers, white linen and white cravat (a black cravat is permissible, but not in full dress.)
For a dinner party, ball or opera, a man must wear a white cravat. Watch fob is very fashionable.
On Sunday afternoons and evening at home, gentlemen are permitted to wear frock coats, and to regard the day as an "off" one, unless invited to a grand dinner, then you must wear the dress suit.
Men are always ungloved, except when riding or driving. ”

“ Your duty to your customer requires you to treat them with respect, to do the work to the best of your ability, to give them the best work of your head and hands, and to treat your customers with politeness to show a disposition to please and be a lady or gentleman at all times. ”

“ A great many people make the mistake by having their vests made snug. One will never get a good fitting vest in this way. A vest should come up close around the collar, and high enough, so that it will not crawl under the linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor make one's clothes.
Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample size over the hips, knee, and to fall gracefully over the shoe at the bottom, (some wear them very short with cuff or French bottoms, this is a style for college towns, and is not universal.) ”

“ How to clean and press ladies' jackets and coats: Brush thoroughly, and if necessary, whip with cane to remove all dust and dirt. Remove all spots with the cleaning fluid, place on hangers, and when dry, press as follows: Ladies' jackets and coats are pressed the same as men's, but with the following differences: Press around cuffs, sleeves and shoulders on the small end of the press-jack, then start at the center back seam and press forward to the front edge, having the collar or neck pointing to the right. Always have the edge of the garment facing the presser. ”

“ Before pressing, place on the small end of press-jack and press all around as in pressing cuffs or bottom of trousers as explained. (But not with sponge cloth, only with iron and wet bottoms with sponge) . Press until rubber is thoroughly melted and set. When one has pressed both bottoms all around, turn trousers right side out and press bottoms as in ordinary pressing.
When bottoms are felled, leave two inches for turn up and cut off the balance. Fell with silk all around, being careful not to let stitches show through on right side. ”

“ Gasolene, benzine, naptha, turpentine and ammonia should be of the best and purest, when used for cleaning purposes.
The secret of success in cleaning, is by dipping the garment in a large quantity of the liquid. Not less than a gallon of gasolene, benzine or naptha should be used for a coat, jacket or skirt. Two gallons will do the work better. One should remove all spots if possible before dipping in the liquid. It is a good idea to surround each spot with a basting thread as when wet, some spots do not show. ”

“ First impressions are apt to be permanent; it is therefore of importance that they should be favorable. Frequently the dress of an individual is that circumstance from which you first form your opinion. ”

“ Cleaning, brushing, repairing and pressing frequently is a step in the right channel, for a man's appearance depends largely upon the care he takes of his clothes. Clothes should be brushed often especially after being worn in the dust and dirt, and should be hung up in a clean place where they will be out of the dust. Coats and vest should always be placed on coat hangers together to retain their shape, and to be ready for wear when wanted. ”

“ Press around the top of the skirt and as far below as the press-jack will allow. If skirt is plaited, be careful to have the plaits lying smooth on the press-jack, either pin or baste plaits in their proper creases before starting to press.
When pressing thin skirts, it is not necessary to press very hard, only until the steam arises, then slap with the back of the brush to keep steam in the goods, also to refreshen the garment. Place on skirt hangers to dry before wearing or delivering. Always look for gloss, and if any appears, remove as explained. ”

“ A well made, well fitting garment should not be thrown away when slightly worn, but should be repaired, cleaned and pressed. Many times lasting as long after being repaired as at first. Unless absolutely necessary never patch, when darning will answer the purpose better. If the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth, the same as the material in the garment (or as near as possible) under the weakened part and darn to this piece. One may back stitch with silk to match the cloth, or make a small running stitch. ”

“ When a coat or vest is placed on the table or press-jack, to be pressed, and one notices fullness along front edges and bottom, press fullness away by laying under press cloth and sponge cloth over part to be pressed and leave iron until sponge cloth is entirely dry, then remove cloths and apply a damp part of the press cloth, and iron again to remove gloss as explained before. Always have edge of garments pointing toward the presser. ”

“ At small informal gatherings, most men consider themselves sufficiently dressed when they wear black frock coats and dark trousers. It is not necessary for men to wear dress suits where ladies are required to be in full dress. At public entertainments, restaurants and cafes, for example, where the ladies wear their bonnets, the man who wears a black frock coat, dark trousers, and light kid [47] gloves, is better dressed; because more appropriately, than he, who wears a full dress suit. ”

“ Basting is only used in the preparation of work, to hold stuff and lining, or any two or more parts of the work together, while it is being stitched, as none of the basting is left in the finished garment. ”

“ Finish collar neatly and press shoulder and collar.
When one side is to be altered (this one may see when customer has coat on and buttoned, and one side stands away from the neck) , in that case, only change one side.
When a coat is too large over the chest, and by setting the buttons back from the edge two and one-half inches (which is only to be done in extreme cases) will not have the desired effect; run a row of basting cotton around arm hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder to the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder seam. ”

“ Men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much money on dress, should wear dark materials for suitings. Dark morning suits may be worn on many occasions when a light suit would be bad taste. Fashion should be followed, but avoid extremes. The wrinkles and bags at the knees should be pressed out frequently. Close woven cloth keeps its shape in garments better. The vest should always be buttoned. Remove buttons on all garments as soon as they show sign of wearing, and replace with new. ”

“ All kind of jackets, coats and skirts for ladies. How to press single and double breasted vests with or without collars, also clerical and fancy vests. How to press trousers.
How to sponge and shrink all kinds of woolen goods for dressmakers and tailors, before making into garments, also for one's use at home.
To prepare a sponge cloth for that purpose, use unbleached cotton four yards long, (or as long as the cloth to be shrunk requires) , boil in soap and water for one hour, rinse in clean water to remove any lint, then it is ready for use. ”

“ One may use an ordinary laundry iron (but would advise the purchase of a solid iron or tailor's goose, weighing from fourteen to twenty-two pounds, or according to one's strength) , one may heat the iron on a coal range, gas or oil stove; or one may use a gas or electric iron, which are being used with great satisfaction, and are easily handled, being of little trouble to operate, also doing the work well. However, it is best to use whatever one considers most convenient, cheapest and best for the locality in which one resides. ”

“ Single breasted sack overcoats, with fly front, are most desirable from every point of view. The man of taste and refinement always selects dark, quiet colors for his overcoats.
Men of taste who carry canes, select those that are strong, plain, light and small. Large canes are in very bad taste for young men.
A white necktie should never be worn except with a full dress suit, save by clergymen, and a few elderly men who never wear any other color.
A high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit. A low hat should not be worn with a double breasted frock or Prince Albert. ”

“ In the preparation of this book, it has been the aim of the maker to give in a concise form, all that is properly embraced in a comprehensive work on not only keeping our wardrobes in such a state as to cause us to appear to the best advantage, but also to give a complete instruction in the manipulation of garments and tools used in the process of properly cleaning, pressing and repairing all kinds of garments for men and women. ”

“ Stout men do not want their trousers very long waisted and up under their arms, therefore great care must be taken when selecting, cutting and making stout men's trousers. When trying on a pair of trousers, or in fact any garment, stand before the mirror in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when looking at the trousers, look at them in the mirror ”

“ On the other hand, if a coat or vest is tight over the chest, it tends to make the wearer stoop. The carriage of men who do not wear suspenders, is generally better than those who wear them.
When a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across the chest, in many cases it is beyond remedy, as the tailor cannot add anything to the front after the garment is completed. ”

“ When learning the method of cleaning, repairing and pressing all kinds of garments for men and women, it is a good idea, if possible, to have a garment of the same sort as one is studying close at hand, following closely the instructions over all parts of the garment ”

“ This style of white turndown collar may be worn on all occasions until the age of eighteen, at which time, he may wear almost any style on the maturer man, providing his size will permit.
The plaited shirt bosom is the more dressy style, and may be of white or light colors, with stripes and figures or in solid colors. Young boys do not wear attached cuffs until they are twelve years old, and only then if full grown.
For small parties, dancing classes or weddings, a boy under sixteen may wear a dark blue serge double breasted sack suit or the Norfolk style with bloomers or straight trousers. ”

“ Felling—when felling or hemming, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming take small stitches close together, even, and do not draw thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw. ”

“ Baste right sides of cloth and trousers together, sew on machine and remove basting and press open the seam. Then baste other side and seam, then press open; fasten a piece of canvas across the top of waist where piece has been set in, and stitch with machine across, in keeping with the stitching on the waist band. If no waist seam, just stitch even with the waist stitching. Sew back suspender buttons on, and fell waist band lining at top, and finish as explained, fastening waist band lining to seams to hold it in place ”

“ Other necessities used in the cleaning, repairing and pressing of garments, are the sponge, tape measure, scissors, tailor's chalk, needles, thimble, bodkin for pulling bastings, a sewing machine, a large mirror, fashion plates, chairs, desk and safe, if one wishes. ”

“ When at home, every man goes in for comfort, however it will be well to remember that it is not polite to appear at the table, whether they are strangers or not, or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on a familiar footing, in his shirt sleeves. ”

“ Men and women have their individual peculiarities, such as one shoulder low, or one may be sloping shouldered, another square, erect and stooping, etc. All these different variations must be taken into consideration when making custom made garments (or garments made to one's individual measurements) , and all well dressed men and women should have their garments made to order. They are more easily cleaned, pressed and repaired, for their building and make up has been studied and put together by skilled mechanics. ”

“ When trousers are worn without suspenders, they must be cut shorter waisted, shorter in the legs and closer around the waist. If one wears suspenders it is a luxury to have a pair for each pair of trousers. ”

“ At the corner, the stitches should form the shape of a fan. Another method which is stronger, is done by darning a square in the angle, first with the warp threads, then with the woof threads, and finishing each end across the tear.
HEMS AND THE FELLING OF SAME.
A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge. The fold should be turned even and straight [21] with the thread of the material, on this depends the neatness of one's work. The hem should always be turned in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, leaving one-eighth inch space for working. ”