William Deskitt Foot Vincent

“ Officers of infantry units clothed in scarlet will, in review order, wear the web sword-belt with sliver-laced slings, and the crimson waist-sash. In units clothed in grey or green, they will wear black or brown belts of rifle pattern, with pouch belt of the same colour; the flap of the pouch will be edged with 3⁄4 inch silver lace, and may, if desired, bear the regimental badge in white metal. ”

“ For instance, we have given a series of good conduct badges; that for the non-commissioned officer is of gold lace on blue cloth, that for the Private in the Cavalry, Artillery, and Engineers of yellow braid on blue cloth, that for the Private in the Infantry white braid on red cloth, whilst the badge for the Army Hospital Corps is a cross of red cloth on a white ground and placed on blue cloth. ”

“ A very great deal of the success of military garments depends upon the employment of skilled workmen, and there is no branch of tailoring in which a speciality shows off to so much advantage as in the making of military garments. It will be well for the cutter to start with the knowledge of the ideal fit required.
In a Tunic is should be made to closely fit at the waist, easy at the chest, close at the neck with ample provision made for the movement of the arms. ”

“ The collar is made to serve either as a stand collar for drill purposes, and to fall over for mess wear. It is made of scarlet cloth, with collar and pointed cuffs, or the regimental facings, edged all round with white cloth, 1⁄8 inch wide, ten buttons down the front, two above each cuff at back of sleeve, with shoulder cords, as worn on the doublet. In the Royal Highlanders, the jacket will have bluff silk lining, except for collar, which is dark blue, and no facing cloth on the inside. ”

“ O to 1, 1 inch, 0 to 51⁄2 is width of scye, which may be found by deducting the width of B F from the distance from C to L, the hindarm seam of sleeve is located at the side seam, and the forearm at point L; to obtain the width of sleeve head measure round top scye from F to G, and across to L; apply that from 1 to 10; O to 5 is 1⁄2 distance from 1 to 10; measure off length off sleeve to elbow and cuff, hollow the forearm at elbow 1 inch, and make the width of elbow from 1 to 9, about 1⁄4 of the breast. The width of cuff may be made 1⁄6 breast plus 1 inch. ”

“ Astrachan fur is used for the covering of the collar, black on the blue coats, and grey on the grey coats; the lapels are lined with similar fur on the inside, that is, the surface next to the breast when the lapel is fastened up; the fur on the collar and lapels is doubled over the cloth, forming an edging 1 inch wide on the reverse side; the edging is continued down to the waist scam. ”

“ Draw line from X to V straight, measure down from X to *Z one twelfth of the seat plus 1 inch and draw line V to AA at right angles to V Z, add on 3⁄4 inch of round at the back, and get the spring of the front by measuring down from V to Y one-twelfth of the seat minus 1 inch, draw line from X to BB at right angles to *Y. It will be seen that the left edge is not so advanced as the right edge.
The extra width of the button stand necessitates the extra width of skirt on the right side, hollow waist seam 1⁄4 inch and complete as diagram. ”

“ When collar-facings are used, great care must be used to avoid soiling them, a caution which is very necessary, seeing so many of them are of a very light colour. We have not yet referred to the finish at the waist, but it should be borne in mind that the waist is to be made to fit closely. It is customary to put a waist-belt and clasp on the inside, the colour harmonising with the lining. ”

“ Russia leather parings, powdered camphor, naphtaline, carbolised paper, or turpentine sprinkled on brown paper, or on the garments, are good for the prevention of moth, and one or another of these preventatives should be placed amongst articles of uniform which are to be packed away for any time.
Before being packed away, gold lace, braid, cord or buttons on garments, should be covered with tissue paper, and then placed in tin lined air-tight cases. Care must be taken to use paper that is thoroughly dry. ”

“ Officers appointed aides-de-camp to the King will wear regimental uniform with a silver aiguillette, or the uniform laid down in the Dress Regulations for aides-de-camp to the King appointed from the Regular Army, with the exception that silver will be substituted for gold in the aiguillette, embroidery, lace, buttons, cocked hat, sword-knot, slings, and horse furniture The waist-sash will be of gold and crimson silk. The aiguillette will be worn with full-dress uniform by these officers when doing duty with their units. ”

“ In a work on Military Garments so much depends on absolute accuracy of detail and conformity with the not easily understandable official regulations, that it is essential, not only that a thoroughly reliable system should be used, but that the information conveyed should be verified and confirmed from all the best available sources. ”

“ Square down a line from J take out 11⁄2 inches suppression from S to T: the larger amount is best taken from the side body, as it makes a somewhat smarter garment. The sidebody is sprung out slightly below S and is terminated about 11⁄2 inches below the waist seam from 1⁄2 to L is 1⁄2 chest measure, plus 2 inches; L to K is across chest measure. Make point K a pivot and sweep to find point N, using the front shoulder measure, less width of back neck, from O to A; now add 1 inch to this quantity and sweep from L. where the two segments intersect each other. locates the neck point. ”

“ The waist length of all Tunics should be cut to the nett measure, as no such thing as a "fashion waist" exists in garments designed to be worn with a tight-fitting belt. In any case, it is better to cut the length of waist 1⁄2 inch too short than too long.
A stand of 5⁄8 inch is left on down the left forepart for the button holes, but the button-stand should always be seamed on down the right forepart so as to ensure a snug fit down the front edge. ”

“ The Measures we advuse are as follows:— Chest, Waist, hips, depth of scye, length to waist, full length, width across back, continue to elbow, continue to cuff, neck, front shoulder,over shoulder, across chest, and height of neck. The only measures we need specially refer to, are the depth of scye, the front shoulder, and over shoulder and the cross chest. ”

“ A serge frock, blue, green, or grey, according to the colour of the full-dress uniform, similar to that authorised for officers of the regular army, may be worn as an undress garment- Buttons regimental pattern; badges of rank in metal; no collar badges. This garment must not be worn on duty, or when parading with troops. Its provision is optional.
FROCK COAT.
Officers of the Territorial Force are not required to provide themselves with the uniform frock coat. ”

“ First, there is the General Staff, which have the control of the entire army and are responsible for the conduct of the campaign. They seldom come within the limits of the firing line, and so it is less important that their garments should be trimmed in a style to identify them as the leaders of the army. ”

“ In stating, with confidence, that no such valuable work on the subject has ever before been published, we are reminded of some lines of Tennyson which seem particularly appropriate to the tailoring literature of our time, especially when we think of the difficulties which the former generations of cutters experiences in the pursuit of trade knowledge. ”

“ The apron on the right side is finished with three pleats, in order to prevent any gaping at that part, and in addition to this, it is the custom with those who have made a study of this particular garment, to arrange this part with a fair amount of spring
The fitting part of the kilt is the lining which is used for the foundation for the hips, which must of course harmonise with the shape of the figure. Those having small hips would require a straighter skirt at the top than those with large hips. The material used for the kilt is then hosted to this lining and is securely stitched to it. ”

“ Except in the cases of corps for which special uniforms have been sanctioned, and which join the Territorial Force as complete units of the same army, full-dress uniforms will, as far as possible, conform to that of corresponding units of the regular forces, silver lace and white metal buttons and ornaments being substituted for gold lace and gilt metal. Existing yeomanry regiments wearing gold lace and gilt buttons are permitted to retain these distinctions. ”

“ The conditions of sale provide that the purchaser shall not, either directly or indirectly, dispose of any tunics, frocks, jackets, trousers, or head-dresses, as garments, unless they have first been so altered that they cannot be recognised as having been used as uniform of the Territorial Force. ”

“ Badges of rank, except when otherwise ordered, will be worn on all shoulder cords and shoulder straps. They will be in silver embroidery on gold shoulder cords, and gold-laced shoulder straps, and gilt or gilding metal on plain cloth shoulder straps. In Rifle Regiments they will he in bronze. The crossed sword is 2 inches full and the baton 1⁄8 inch shorter. The crowns when laid on shoulder cords or straps are 1 inch broad and 7⁄8 inch in height; the stars are 1 inch between opposite points. ”

“ The dotted line down the front is to represent the forepart turned in, so that the hooks and
eyes down the front may be more securely fastened. The particulars of braid, em, will be found in our illustrations and description.
MESS JACKETS.
The general style of Mess jackets worn by nearly all officers is of the roll collar pattern, without buttons or braid on any part of the jacket. One inch slit to be loft at the cuff. The back is finished with a point at centre of bottom, sharply curved over the hips. ”

“ The four returns of efficiency need not be in consecutive years, nor in the same unit. An additional star may be worn for every further aggregate of four years. A non-commissioned officer or man who has become entitled to wear a star or stars, and is returned as non efficient in an annual return of his unit, may continue to wear such star or stars. ”

“ Two suits of uniform will be provided for each man, one of which must be service dress. The other may he as previously described, and be used as an undress or "walking-out" uniform.
{c|"WALKING OUT" DRESS.}} Undress or "walking-out" dress will consist of tunic or frock, trousers or trews, forage or Glengarry cap. Highland units previously authorised to wear the kilt may retain the kilt, sporran, and white spats instead of trousers or trews. ”

“ The cloak worn by the Household Cavalry is a very loose fitting S.B. garment made up as follows:—
1st Life Guards—Scarlet cloth, blue cloth collar and cape, rose and chain fastenings, scarlet serge lining to the waist.
2nd Life Guards - Scarlet cloth, with blue cloth cape, rose and chain fastenings, with scarlet cloth collar and scarlet shalloon lining to the waist. ”

“ Brigadier-General is lower than Major-General. Major-General is lower than Lieutenant-General. Lieutenant-General is lower than General. General is lower than Field Marshal. Field Marshal is head of the Army. Each of these ranks are distinguished by badges as per illustration.
These, interpreted into words, read as follows:-
Field Marshal: Crossed batons on a wreath of laurel, with a crown above. General: Crossed sword and baton, with star and crown above. Lieutenant-General: Crossed sword and baton, and crown above Major-General: Crossed sword and baton with star above. ”

“ The development is as 1 inch at the breast to 3⁄4 inch at the shoulders. If I take military tunic to the 48 breast and 48 waist we may be able to learn something by working it out, especially with regard to fixing the waist length of the front. The military scale measures for such a figure are as follows:—Depth of scye 101⁄2 natural waist 18, skirt length 11 1⁄2, or total length 281⁄2, across back 83⁄4, front shoulder 16, over-shoulder 22, neck or collar measure 183⁄4. ”

“ Wherever a stay is necessary, leather is used, but otherwise there is no lining. The end of the puttees is finished with a corner, the ends being turned down and stitched and on to the end of this the braid is sewn. ”

“ Those badges indicated by wavy lines are made of gold lace, and those which are left plain are for the most part made from braid or worsted, the exception being Corporal and Lance-Corporal of the Engineers and Corporal and Bombardier of the Artillery, which are of gold. All the ornaments are worked in gold except that for Infantry Pioneer, which is of worsted. ”