Chas. Hecklinger

“ At a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front length, which is in our measure 181⁄2, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever it reaches to is point P. This may, sometimes, when the person is erect, reach above the line; and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below it. Wherever it reaches is the shoulder point, and when it goes above we sweep at a point above N even with shoulder for neck, and of course, should it be below the line, at a point below N, so that the neck will keep its shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point. ”

“ The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be regulated in width by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible.
The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running them to a point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom. Cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. It must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam. ”

“ This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies’ garments.
The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat.
The front has a large dart cut in one piece—that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt attached to the body—but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps. ”

“ Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth inch below breast-line at 15.
In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and from there, with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from F to Z will be about equal to that from C to 2.
Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to 3 and S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14, the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to give it ease over the hips ”

“ Most Systems of proportion, thus far issued, are projected on the breast-measure. It will be evident, on investigating the proportions of the human figure, that a System based only on one size of the body, and that its width, can never lead to the best results. ”

“ The demand and orders for these garments have, so far, been considerable in the leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those who make them for the highest fashionables, but especially to those who are located in smaller towns and who are not often called upon to make this style of garment. There are now many ladies who have a horse at their disposal, and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian exercise, and it is quite necessary, not only for the tailor but the dressmaker, to know how a riding-habit should be cut and made. ”

“ One inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian exercise, to wear riding trousers. They are usually made of the same cloth as the habit, with a fly-front open to leg-seam, or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre, and a narrow strap at bottom.”
In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft. But in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists, and lengthen the skirt as on Figure 7 and draw the skirt like that on last Figure. ”

“ To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips. Regulate the length by the back. From S draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body [47] at 21, thence to N; from N forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down; also put in two cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right to fit the body. Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts. ”

“ The front-seam is the same as the upper-sleeve from C to E and N.
In drawing any sleeve use the measure of the arm-hole, and bear in mind that this manner of drafting has the seams already included.
[21]
FIG. 11. SKIRTS.
Cutting and making a dress skirt, of any style and kind, is sometimes considered of very little importance. By many dressmakers the work is entrusted to inexperienced hands and blocked out by a pattern which will not fit the form. Many fine costumes lack style because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed. ”

“ Every point needed to make it clear has been carefully put down—in its illustrations, in the simple description, and in grouping the separate articles in their correct places—making it at once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole. ”

“ Some ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their riding-habits, and eschewing all fictitious aids by way of adornment to the bodies have made them perfectly plain, with the edges turned in and stitched, and smoked pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons.
Veils are no longer considered correct, no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate in character and out of place with the “billy-cock” hat.
The train, as now worn, is only cut a few inches longer than the walking length. ”

“ Next, placing the width over from B on the back line, measure to 10, 24 inches, and curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches. Point G is about 12 inches below the waist, and from this place 1 inch more than one-quarter of the hips to 8, and draw from 6, which is one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9; then finish the curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape. The front is constructed by drawing a line from O down the front edge or centre of front. ”

“ When a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted. When more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan is to cut the sleeve in two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as required, about 1 or 2 inches, and a little more round put on the top. ”

“ The bottom should have a regular sweep. This sweep can be gained the easiest by laying the gores in a closing position on the table, drawing a straight line along the centre of the front and extending upwards about the same length as the skirt. At the centre of the back breadth another line is drawn far enough up to cross the first line. ”

“ The careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to fall into a fan-like sweep. The necessity of fine slopes, and a difference of those in different costumes, as well as for different figures, will be readily appreciated when we observe the use for which the dress is intended. ”

“ It requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it.
Let us take a size—36 breast, 24 waist, with a length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from neck 151⁄2 inches. ”

“ The System given has been found to give the greatest security in its results, with the least trouble, it being easy to learn, readily used, and gives the greatest satisfaction to the large number of those using it. ”

“ The change necessary for the short or long pointed sleeve, or for any shape of arm-wing, does not alter the principle. Pleated backs, or very much fullness in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting enough extra goods in to meet the amount required for pleats or fullness. ”

“ A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket.
FIG. 28. TRAVELING ULSTER.
Fig. 28.
A Spring and Fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this Figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it. The draft is a close-fitting traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons down to the bottom, and has a collar which [48] turns over, as represented by Fig. 5. ”

“ After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay it against the front and cut without a seam from O down to the bottom. For this shape, after the shoulders are seamed up, gather in the round of sleeve from O forward. The same can be cut like the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom, in a straight line down from B. This makes a wrap with a back wing and a front. When cut in this manner an opening can be left for the hands to go through, as shown on the Figure, below E.
Fig. ”