John Lort Stokes

“ I noticed that there was a vast superiority in the soil on the north-west side of the hills; but saw none equal in richness to the five-mile patch at Mount Eckersley.
The steep sides of a part of the valley of the Wannon, however, a few miles to the eastward of the Sugarloaf, are very fertile, and being clothed with patches of woodland, form extremely pretty scenery. The rocks of this part of the country are chiefly trappean; in the immediate neighbourhood of Portland, they consist of limestone, ferruginous sandstone, and trap. ”

“ It was the examination I made on this occasion of Colonel Gawler's excellent road between the port and Adelaide, which convinced me that a portion of it might easily be converted into a railroad, as there is sufficient width for a single line of rails without detracting from its present value. That such an undertaking would prove of great advantage to the colony there can be no doubt; and it is equally certain that it would be profitable to those engaged in it. The exports and imports of S. Australia are, year by year, rapidly increasing ”

“ Mount Fairfax is the southern and most elevated part of an isolated block, forming Moresby's Flat-topped Range. It rests on a reddish, sandy, sloping plain, on which were occasionally noticed fragments of quartz and ironstone, which latter formation is the character of Mount Fairfax, and apparently of the neighbouring heights. Having completed our observations, which place Mount Fairfax 582 feet above the level of the sea, we continued our journey to the south-east, in the direction of Wizard Peak. Two miles, over a scrubby sandy plain, brought us again to the Chapman or Greenough. ”

“ After attentively examining with my glass, resting on the ground, all that lay within the extensive range of vision afforded by Wizard Peak,* I could not help congratulating Mr. Clifton on his display of judgment, in taking the responsible step I have mentioned; and it is to be deeply regretted, that one so energetic, and so well adapted for the duty he had undertaken, should have been totally abandoned by those who sent him out. ”

“ It was in the neighbourhood of the harbour, the existence or identity of which was thus called in question, that Captain Grey had reported to have seen a fertile district; and a company had actually arrived from England for the purpose of forming a settlement there. Mr. Clifton, the Chief Commissioner, however, on hearing the opinion prevalent in the colony, did not think proper to risk the lives of the people under his charge, by conveying them to a port that might be fabulous, and to a country the fertility of which was absolutely denied ”

“ A railroad would be sure to attract a large amount of traffic even at present. As, however, the Port of Adelaide only admits vessels of moderate draught, large ships must discharge part of their cargo outside, or at Holdfast Roads; between which place and Adelaide a railroad might also be carried without any difficulty, there being a complete level the whole way. ”

“ I am, my dear Sir, yours faithfully, G. Grey." I need scarcely add, that Captain Grey having been obliged to assume his latitude, none of his positions, during this harassing journey, can be expected to be accurate. From this point we proceeded one mile west over a dry, arid plain, covered with yellow and white everlasting flowers of small growth: a little patch of woodland, consisting of a species of wattle and a very small kind of gum, here delayed our progress. The ground beneath these trees was entirely barren of vegetation ”

“ Leaving Encounter Bay, we for some distance followed the left bank of the Inman, when the road turned off to the westward. The country was good in patches, till we made a cattle-station of Mr. Hacks, near Yankalilla Bay; when, instead of a succession of forested hills and dales, we passed over extensive treeless downs, contrasting strikingly in appearance with the woody country around. Here we pitched our tents for the night: and next morning were deprived of the company of His Excellency, who was obliged to return to Adelaide ”

“ The general appearance of the coast was that of high sandhills, partly covered with vegetation; immediately in the rear of which there appeared a range rather higher, and of a less barren appearance; behind these again, at a distance of eight or nine miles, rose a series of singular table-topped broken ranges, terminating southwards in about lat. 29° 5' S. Mount Fairfax and Wizard Peak are the most conspicuous objects in this range. ”

“ But it was not until it became apparent to my own eyes, that I could believe anyone could be so reckless as to induce a large number of individuals, including women and children, by false, or at least exaggerated representations, to sever the ties of kindred and of friendship, and become voluntary exiles to a far country, in search of a new and more prosperous home ”

“ If the 141st degree had been selected as the boundary of the colony, with reference to the long. of Sydney, there would not be much difficulty attending its determination.
* The squatter, who often at great risk locates himself in a remote spot, and renders such essential service to the mother country by finding new lands, yea new homes, for the surplus population, merits much greater encouragement than he receives, particularly in instances similar to that of Mr. Henty, whose station at Portland was, for years, hundreds of miles removed from other occupied parts. ”

“ This is apparently for the benefit of the crown, twenty thousand pounds being thus added to the revenue under the pound per acre system; but it is certainly not advantageous to the country, as the large purchasers seldom buy for occupation, but for sale; and the smallholder, the squatter, is driven from the land in distress. I have seen instances of persons being utterly ruined in this way. My own opinion is, that the squatter ought to be allowed to purchase the land he occupies by private contract from government ”

“ From thence to the coast dunes, to reach which we made a detour to the S.W. walking over about six miles of country, all was scrub and sand. On the low ridge, lying immediately behind the coast range of sandhills, limestone occasionally cropped out. Embarking, we proceeded in a boat to examine a small estuary, seen from Mount Fairfax, at the northern part of the bay. This we found to be separated from the sea by a low bank of sand, thirty feet wide and five high, over which the sea appeared in gales to enter ”

“ Its course was about S. by W. and appeared to come from the valleys, formed by the ranges in the rear of Mount Fairfax, and north of Wizard Peak. Continuing our journey, we proceeded over an undulating plain, on the higher parts of which a reddish sand and ironstone gravel universally prevailed; in the lower parts, and near the watercourses, the soil approached a light mould, and produced the warran, so much sought after by the natives. ”

“ In the colony, however, very different opinions were held; and it was confidently maintained that Port Grey, although placed, by accident or otherwise, twelve miles to the southward, was no other than the bay we had previously visited, called by us Champion Bay. ”

“ In the meantime the Beagle sailed for Sydney to receive the stores we expected from England.
March 10.—This was our second day from the Derwent; but owing to the prevalence of N.E. winds we had not made further progress than to be at noon, thirty miles east from Cape Pillar. The atmospheric changes during this day were curious. The morning broke hazy, with a moderate breeze from N.N.E., which gradually subsiding and veering at the same time to E.S.E., left us becalmed for three or four hours; thick impenetrable fogs meanwhile passed at intervals to the S.W. ”

“ This township is prettily situated at the western foot of the hills on a woodland slope, bordered by the waters of the Gulf, at a distance of about six miles.
* Named after the unfortunate Captain Barker by his friend Captain Sturt. Our party was to have been here joined by Governor Grey, who, however, did not arrive till late next morning; when, after examining the slate quarries in the neighbourhood, where the cleavage and quality equalled any I have seen in Wales, we left for Encounter Bay, bearing nearly south-east. The first three miles of the road lay over stony ridges ”

“ Henty received no consideration from Government when the land was put up for sale, being obliged to bid against the public for ground he had brought under notice, and spent years of labour in getting into cultivation.*
* Lawrence Isles lie off the point forming the south side of Portland Bay. † My observations refer to this gentleman's new house, which they place in lat. 38° 20' 45" S. and long. 9° 36' 22" W. of Sydney, by satisfactory meridian distances to the latter place, and from S. Australia. Preferring Mr. ”