Joseph E. Bygate

“ If the exterior of Durham is in any way disappointing, the interior more than compensates for its shortcomings. The general impression on entering the church is one of simple dignity and solemnity. The great massiveness of the structure and absence of elaborate ornament no doubt contribute to this feeling. The pious builders of old have certainly contrived to stamp on their work their own feeling of awe in the presence of the All-Powerful and Eternal God. Whatever has been lost through vandalism and the restorer, this remains unaltered. ”

“ These arches and the columns which support them are the chief beauty and characteristic of the chapel. The arches are semi-circular, of one order, with three lines of chevron, one on each face, and one on the soffit between two roll mouldings. The capitals are light and graceful and carved with a volute, and the columns clusters of marble and freestone shafts. The arches, however, rest on the marble columns, which are, no doubt, those previously alluded to. The whole seems to have been coloured in fresco, and remains of this are still to be seen. ”

“ The whole is surmounted by a deep open-work parapet. On each angle of the tower are two buttresses, which are decorated with panelling and canopied and crocketed niches containing figures. The interior of the tower or lantern is remarkable for the gallery which runs round it, which is reached from the roofs of the nave and choir transepts by doors. It rests on corbels, each alternate one being carved with grotesque heads, and is protected by a parapet pierced in quatrefoils. ”

“ We have now reached a period when the glories of Gothic architecture were fading, during which many of our finest churches suffered considerably. Durham is no exception to the rule, and we find during the next two centuries a long record of destruction and so-called improvement. This, perhaps, reached its worst stage during the time of Wyatt, who in 1796 pulled down the magnificent Norman chapter-house. ”

“ The general design of the church, exclusive of detail, which, of course, changed and developed with the progress of Gothic art, has undoubtedly been carried out on the plan intended by Bishop Carileph, the only important variation being the addition of the transept at the east end, known as the Nine Altars Chapel. The original plan consists of a nave and aisles, transepts with aisles on their eastern side, a choir also with aisles, and the three apses of the east end, with a central tower over the junction of transepts, nave, and choir, and towers flanking the west end. ”

“ The arches themselves are deeply moulded and ornamented with dog-tooth ornament and foliage. The vault of the central bay has eight ribs—two springing from each of the clusters just described, and two from each of the choir piers. The vaulting of the remaining bays is quadripartite, but has peculiarities which are worthy of notice, arising from inequality of width. We must not omit to call attention to the exquisite sculpture of the vaulting. ”

“ The masterly way in which great masses of solid masonry, greater than was constructively necessary, are handled, and the reticence and delicacy of the ornament combine to prove this. There is in the whole scheme a delightful union of great power and vigour in the masses, and of tenderness and loving care in the detail.
The Choir is the earliest part of the church. Its two western bays show Carileph's work, but the eastern piers have been considerably altered owing to the addition at a later period of the eastern transept, when Carileph's apses were taken down. ”

“ The Galilee or Lady Chapel is situated at the west end of the nave. It is well known that for some reason women were not allowed to enter any church where S. Cuthbert's shrine stood, nor even any church dedicated to him. At Lindisfarne a separate church was provided for them, and at Durham the Galilee Chapel was added for the same purpose. It was alleged that S. Cuthbert himself had made this rule, but there is no proof that he ever issued such a command. 73 The Venerable Bede makes no mention of any special feeling of antipathy to women on the part of the saint. ”

“ A new screen between the nave and choir was then erected; the choir floor relaid with marble mosaic; the stalls replaced in their old positions, and new portions made to replace those destroyed in 1846. A new organ, pulpit, and lectern were also added.
The new Choir Screen is very much open to criticism. Though no doubt beautiful in detail, and of excellent workmanship, its effect, as a whole, is not pleasant, when seen from the west end silhouetted against the light of the choir. A screen previously existed in this position erected by Bishop Cosin. ”

“ John Fossor, made prior of Durham in 1342, inserted the large window in the north transept and the west windows of the nave.
Bishop Thomas de Hatfield (1346 to 1381) seems to have done no architectural work beyond the erection of his own throne and tomb (in which he was afterwards buried) on the south side of the choir. This is an elaborate and sumptuous piece of work, and shows remains of rich colouring and gilding. About this time, also, the beautiful altar screen known as the Neville screen was erected. ”

“ He was a good man, and very kind to the poor.
Thomas de Hatfield (1345-1381) was, like Bishop Bek, a warrior ecclesiastic. Soon after his election he led eighty archers to the siege of Calais. His episcopate was notable for the wars with the Scots, and the great victory obtained over them, with the capture of King David and many nobles, at Neville's Cross, near Durham. Fifteen thousand Scots were slain. The victory was attributed to the presence of the sacred banner of S. Cuthbert, which Prior John Fossor took to a place near the battlefield, kneeling in prayer the while for success. ”

“ The North Door is now the principal entrance to the cathedral. Externally the present porch is the work of Wyatt. The first porch was Norman, of four orders depth, with detached shafts in the recesses. Above this was a high-pitched gable and roof, the front being ornamented with a semi-circular-headed wall arcading. The inner side of the doorway is of two orders only, and is probably the only remaining portion of the original. The outer shaft is left plain, while the inner one, in each case, is most elaborately carved. ”

“ In 1526, while Tunstall was Bishop of London, the English translation of the New Testament by Tyndall appeared, causing great alarm among the clergy. The part played by Tunstall in relation to this is well known. He opposed the supremacy of King Henry as head of the Church, but eventually gave up the struggle and preached in its favour. The monastery of Durham was suppressed in 1540, and a dean and twelve canons appointed. Soon after the accession of Edward VI., Bishop Tunstall was committed to the Tower and deprived of his see, on a charge of having encouraged rebellion in the north. ”

“ Of the contents of the chapel remaining, perhaps the most interesting to the visitor is the grave and site of the shrine of the Venerable Bede. The shrine, like that of S. Cuthbert's, is gone, and all that remains is the stone slab on which it once stood, and which bears the inscription (placed there in 1831) :
This remarkable man was contemporary with S. Cuthbert, whom, as we have said, he survived forty-eight years. His holiness and piety, together with his great learning, earned for him the title Venerable, and after his death, in 735, his bones were enshrined. ”

“ The earlier history of the see of Durham has already been referred to in order to lead up to the founding of the cathedral. We have seen how the bishop and monks of Lindisfarne fled and wandered with the relics of their beloved S. Cuthbert, eventually settling at Chester-le-Street, until, in the year 990, Bishop Aldhun, in terror of the Danes, again fled southward to Ripon. ”

“ The joining and blending of the work with the Norman of Carileph's choir had evidently been accomplished when the chapel was almost completed. The eastern wall is of three bays, each bay having three lofty lancet windows. The bays are not of equal width, the centre one being regulated by the width of the nave of the church, and narrower than the north and south bays.
Capital: Chapel of the Nine Altars.
Capital: Chapel of the Nine Altars.
A very beautiful arcade runs completely round the walls. ”

“ What was originally Pudsey's Upper Hall is now styled the Norman Gallery. The greater portion of this gallery is at the present time divided into chambers of residence for the students of the university. It is reached by the Black Staircase and a doorway in the Early English Gothic style. The 105 interior of the south and west walls are enriched by arcades in groups of three, the central bay of each of which is larger than those flanking it, and is pierced by a window. The arches of the arcade rest on shafts and cushion capitals, and are carved with chevron ornament. ”

“ Among the sculptured heads on the wall arcade at the south end, at the western side of the two bays into which the south wall is divided, are two which are portraits of the men to whom we owe the design and execution of the beautiful sculpture of this chapel. One is an elderly man, the other much younger, and both wear linen dust-caps over their heads.
The nine lancet windows were originally filled with ancient stained glass, which, as the reader will remember, was removed, Below each window was an altar. ”

“ This monument is beneath the Episcopal Throne, which was erected by Bishop Hatfield himself. It consists of an altar tomb surmounted by a recumbent effigy of the bishop, in richly-worked robes, beneath a canopy, richly groined, with foliated bosses at the intersections of the ribs. On the walls at the east and west ends may still be seen the remains of fresco painting, representing in each case two angels. Beneath the staircase leading up to the throne is a very fine decorated arcade, containing several shields bearing the bishop's and other arms. ”

“ Early in the fourteenth century a new chancel was built, the aisles rebuilt and extended to the west end, and two new arches added to the west end of the nave arcades. In the early part of the fifteenth century a clerestory and open parapet were added, and a new oak roof placed over the nave. This was most probably a hammer-beam roof, and was coloured and gilded and decorated with angels holding shields. The only parts remaining at the present day are the grotesque carved corbels, and the angels. The tower was also constructed at this time. ”

“ Between each of the 80 niches are two square panels with trefoiled heads, each panel bearing a shield with the arms of Neville and Percy. Both above and below the niches much delicate carving may be noticed. Surmounting all are the broken effigies of Lord John and his wife, who was the daughter of Lord Henry Percy, the well-known Hotspur. All the figures on this tomb, including the recumbent figures, are headless, but sufficient remains to show that they were of great excellence. Remains of colouring and gilding can also be distinguished in places on the monument. ”

“ The carved devices of the miserere seats of these stalls are curious and worthy of attention. The doors in the gateway of the courtyard are the work of Tunstall's time.
Bishop Cosin (1660-1672) found the castle in a dilapidated condition. During the Commonwealth it had been sold to the then Lord Mayor of London, who used it badly, to say nothing of the ruin caused by the Scots. He spent large sums in its restoration. He added the present porch or entrance from the courtyard to the great hall. The great staircase in the north-west corner of the courtyard is his and bears his arms. ”

“ In 1860 he was created Archbishop of York, and two years later was translated to Canterbury.
Hon. Henry Montague Villiers (1860-1861) was translated from Carlisle. A fine preacher, his episcopate was all too short. He died, after much suffering, in 1861.
Charles Baring (1861-1878) , Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, succeeded him. A man of unbounded charity and goodness, he won the affection of all who knew him personally. He was compelled, through illness, to resign the see in 1878, and did not long survive his retirement.
Joseph Barber Lightfoot (1879-1889) was then elected to the see. ”

“ Each bay of the Nave is divided into two sub-bays. The main bays have massive piers with engaged shafts on the recessed faces. The bases of these are cruciform in plan, though the arms of the cross are very short. At the height of the springing of the arch the shafts are surmounted by plain cushion capitals. The division into sub-bays is effected by the introduction midway of a massive round column on a square base. ”

“ George Monteigne (1628) , Bishop of London, only held the see of Durham for three months, when he was translated to York.
John Howson (1628-1631) , Bishop of Oxford, held the see for two years, and died in 1631.
Thomas Morton (1632-1659) , translated from Lichfield. The North of England was much disturbed in 1640 by the invasion of the Scots, and Bishop Morton fled—first to Stockton, afterwards to York—and never returned to his diocese. The successful Scots levied heavy taxes on the district for the maintenance of their troops, as much as £850 a day being demanded. ”

“ The Western Doorway.—The exterior of this great doorway is now within the Galilee chapel. It was built by Flambard (1099-1128) , and is comparatively plain. On the Galilee side it consists of an arch of four orders ornamented with chevrons. The inner face is very similar to the outer, but is shallower, having only two orders. The shafts and capitals are without decoration, and the arch ornamented with chevron and a leaf pattern with medallions carved with grotesque animals. In 29 order to reopen this doorway and make a carriage road up to it, Wyatt proposed pulling down the Galilee chapel. ”