Reginald Herbert Mason

“ Every room was thrown into confusion; and statues, which had formerly been regarded with the utmost reverence; were huddled closely together in dark corners for the time being. Paint, water, and the juice of the ammolé; or Mexican soap-plant, became the order of the day; and as the time set apart for the intended honour approached, the building was in such exquisite order and bloom, that the hearts of the directors rejoiced within them; and they thought they could perceive the dawning glimmer of a bright day in store for their favourite arts and beloved institution. ”

“ The light of a glorious sunset gilds the broken ground and the frail erection upon it, and obliges the uncouth figures to turn away their faces, and place their hands before their eyes, to shield them from the glaring light.
The eldest is a middle-aged Indian, with low and retreating features, and a head partially shaved. He is dressed in a miserable thatch-like cloak, or serapé, made of twisted water-flags; and the tattered breeches that barely reach below the knee, leave his legs and feet as much exposed as the coating of soil and clay upon them will permit. ”

“ No hope of tiny feet pressing the soil above, and of subdued yet cheerful faces perusing the stone which tells where they lie. No thought of shady trees and twittering birds, of calm sabbaths, hymns of praise, and thronging worshippers: but all is neglect and desolation.
In the case of the wealthy, however, neither pomp nor expense is spared. To die rich in Mexico, and to bequeath the greater part of your riches to the Church, is not only to secure a splendid pageant on earth, but to possess a safe passport to heaven besides. ”

“ The poor, plundered youth turned, with a sinking heart, to retrace his steps to his native village; bemoaning his ruined hopes, and heartily regretting that he had left his home with such a companion.
He had not proceeded far before he unwittingly turned to take a last look in the direction of the city; and as he did so he felt a sudden chill creep over him, as if in apprehension of impending danger. He looked up at the sky above him—it had become bright and tranquil; then at the earth at his feet: it was true he was upon the narrow pass ”

“ Many a dire alarm shook the hearts of those devoted old priests, as they performed their tedious duty, through the midnight hours, under the arches and vaulted roofs of the old cathedral. Often did they give themselves up for lost, when the echo of footsteps near the square, or the noise of the wind as it shook the fretted doors of the building, saluted their listening ears. ”

“ Within the spacious court-yard of the Mexican prison—the Accordada—may he seen such a horde of wretched and degraded male criminals as may challenge the lowest grades of society in any other nation to produce the like:—some crowding indiscriminately together in corners, or cowering in groups to cheat and gamble; others yelling and dancing, quarreling and fighting or dabbling in an unclean fountain in the centre; and a few repairing tattered serapés with broken needles, making baskets of decayed rushes, or hunting the abundant vermin. ”

“ His purpose becomes apparent when the bull opens his mouth wide to bellow; for suddenly the bear seizes upon the bull's tongue with his fangs. The tortured bull exerts all his strength to throw off his assailant; but the bear's hold is tenacious, and relaxes not till he has torn out the tongue by the roots! This decides the combat: the bull, overcome by the agony, sinks down powerless at once, and is immediately dragged off the arena to die. ”

“ No wonder, then, that the people have little respect for a religion taught by such men: who, however, make it a powerful instrument of terror to the timid, the weak, and the credulous. Penance and other physical terrors are threatened on fitting occasions; while the bugbears of excommunication and purgatory are held forth in all their horrors besides. The priest does not scruple to represent himself as the absolute arbiter of eternal bliss or endless punishment ”

“ By the systematic sale of indulgences, however, vice stalks abroad clothed in a mantle of impunity. The commission of an enormous crime is but a small matter, providing you possess wherewithal to bribe the church for the same: how heinous soever may be the sin, the priest will wipe it clearly away for a consideration. To smooth the path of vice, indulgences are to be had ready to hand, before the crime is committed; and the indulgence once paid for, the sinner has a balance in his favour till the offence is consummated: and then all is square again until the next occasion. ”

“ Every external resource is exhausted. At this juncture, the fair daughter comes to their relief; she has mustered the whole of her trinkets and personal effects—many of them valued gifts, and now offers them at the Monte Pio for the relief of her unworthy but distressed parents. The rich colour mantles upon her cheek as she exposes those cherished relics of more prosperous days; but an expression of tearful joy illumines her eyes, as she thinks of the benefit her present sacrifice will confer upon her relatives. As she turns away, one might envy her the happiness she anticipates. ”

“ Just at this instant, the scoundrel Sanchez, his old companion, also turned; and seeing that his victim hesitated and looked back, he raised his hand with a threatening movement, hastily advancing a few steps and shouting.
This action, and the apprehension it excited proved too much for the young Indian's presence of mind; he quitted his hold upon the rock; and began to fly from his fancied pursuer—his foot slipped—he fell over the precipice— —and before he could reach the bottom, he was a crushed and mangled corpse. ”

“ Suddenly we come upon a band of Indians, quite overcome with the liquor they have recklessly swallowed whom a very inadequate party of police-officers are endeavouring to remove. Their efforts, however, only serve to irritate the Indians; whose eyes glow with the fury of intoxication, while they foam at the mouth, and utter wild shrieks; those among them who are armed struggle desperately with the officers; wounds are inflicted; groans are heard, and death is not unlikely result. Drinking and fighting form two of the staple recreations of vast masses of the population of this country. ”

“ There is a great deficiency of those simple and elegant social entertainments, which are so agreeable a medium of intercourse in more civilised countries. Unless a Mexican family are able to dazzle their neighbours by an extravagant display of plate and jewels, rich viands, and sumptuous decorations, they do not give parties at all; insomuch, that the unceremonious, intelligent, inexpensive reunions, so welcome elsewhere, may be sighed for in this country in vain. Genuine hospitality, of a hearty, unobtrusive kind, however, is not unfrequently to be met with—especially in the country districts ”

“ No sooner has each champion caught sight of his opponent, than his eye kindles, his wings flutter, and he manifests the utmost eagerness to begin the attack: they are then placed on the ground, opposite each other, at a little distance, and with a vindictive scream they both spring forward. Leaping up and meeting one another in full shock, they struggle wing to wing; they pounce upon each other with their beaks, and strike with their armed claws ”

“ The people of Mexico, in wrapping themselves round with jealous restrictions, and avoiding communication with other countries, have vented their spleen, from time to time, upon one another. But should a more liberal national disposition evidence itself in the country, and the light of knowledge and intelligence disperse the clouds of superstition and ignorance, those fruits of individual refinement and goodwill may be looked for, which only flourish in the genial atmosphere of domestic happiness and free institutions. ”

“ A trumpet sounds, folding-doors are thrown open, and every neck is strained to view the scene, as a bull is led in—a stout, powerful, young beast, in all the pride of unsubdued strength; the sharp tips of his horns have been cut off, but he still looks sufficiently formidable. The matadores and picadores come thronging in their gay costumes, in great numbers and high spirits, mounted on rather small horses, blindfolded; and bearing lances in their right hands, and red mantles on their left arms. ”

“ The practice of gaming has probably never been carried to such a height in any country as in Mexico: the best houses and hotels in their neighbourhoods are fitted up for the reception of wealthy gamblers; and the poorer sort have also their places of resort, where play is pursued with equal avidity—varied by the indulgence of vices and debaucheries of a more disgusting and degrading character.
The most favourable specimens of the Mexican people are sensitive, proud, impulsive, talented, courteous, brave, sincere, and hospitable ”

“ A cloud of dust arises, notwithstanding the precautions against it—that bull's tremendous charge would raise dust out of anything—the ground appears to shake beneath the shock; terrific bellowings rend the air; the nostrils of the horses dilate in affright; and there is nothing to be seen but a confused mingling-of horses and men, lances and mantles, with the infuriated bull in the midst of the commotion. The tormented animal is soon enticed away to another part of the arena ”

“ Close beside these sat a dirty, frowsy man, with blanket old and soiled, hat crushed and adust, leathern pantaloons faded, boots thick and unused to friction, and linen almost as sombre as his complexion. Yet he was a genuine town-councillor, and his opinion was received with as much consideration as another's;—he was a rich man, and well known to be such, though considering it to be no part of his duty to his neighbour, to keep himself outwardly clean and respectable. ”

“ The heat is so intense, that the veiled ladies are glad to retire beneath the shades and awnings provided for them; and sundry gallant but effeminate cavalleros are proud to bear them company. The arena is spacious, of almost oval form; and the best points of view, whether for sitting or standing, have been eagerly contended for, and are fully occupied. Noble and beautiful ladies fill the seats of honour, their faces glowing with animation and anticipated pleasure, arrayed in the richest lace and embroidery ”

“ But the geographical situation of the country is against them; it is separated from the United States by a sterile and savage region, while both mountains and seas, in other directions, conspire to isolate Mexico from other lands. These unfavourable circumstances would have little effect upon more energetic minds; but the semi-Spaniards yield at once to their position: they seem to think that their best protection lies in falling back upon their own indolence, and their truest wisdom in suspecting all the world beside. ”

“ Thus the more intelligent and industrious portions of the community are continually taxed beyond their means, to support a gigantic receptacle of vice, in which criminals of every stamp and degree of villany are herded together, to their mutual deterioration—an exhibition of recklessness, crime, and misery unparalleled.
At one end of the court-yard, in the midst of the utmost riot and blasphemy, is the chapel—against the wall of which the prisoners stoop and gamble. ”

“ Mexico has no lack of melancholy sights,—scenes that are enough of themselves to horrify the sensitive, and to fill the mind of the philanthropist with sorrow; yet, of all these, perhaps the most melancholy may be witnessed in the public street, outside the little low barred window of that dreadful room. Heartrending are the shrieks and lamentations often to be heard there! Women bewailing the loss of their husbands; orphans weeping over the corpse of a murdered father ”

“ The females of Mexico are naturally kindhearted, sociable, hospitable, and sincere; there is no deficiency of feeling amongst them, for they are eminently impulsive: indeed, to this latter quality is owing much that is excellent, as well as much that is irregular, in Mexican society.
Mexican courtships are shorter, on the average, than in most other countries; though there is no lack of passionate devotion on the part of cavalier suitors: and in high life, the vapid gallantries and sentimental affectations between the sexes in public are absolutely disgusting. ”

“ Such was the room in which I did not sleep; though the landlord was greatly surprised that any objection could be started against such quarters,—and it was not without a very stormy debate that he could be prevailed upon to grant me any other.
Beggary is a profession—by far the most universal one in the city of Mexico. I had before seen it in great force in other districts, and had heard much of its prevalence in the capital; but I certainly was not prepared for such a tumultuous exhibition of mendicity as I beheld next morning from the window of my apartment. ”

“ He receives the amount advanced to him with an oath and a bitter smile of contempt, letting the money fall into his pocket as if it were an offering of propitiation to an offended deity; then, scowling upon the assembled multitude, he retires, muttering maledictions and vowing to revenge himself upon society in general. ”

“ May every comfort fly from your embrace! May Heaven always be shut against you! May your wife and children be torn from your arms, and perish miserably before your eyes! May your flesh rot and wither upon your bones from day to day! May you die in pain and horror, amid curses and blasphemy! And may your remains lie unburied for ever and ever!" Thus the hardened caitiff deals out his entreaties and his threats, his prayers and maledictions; and well it is for you that he has you not at his mercy.
The life of a female of this class is miserable and degraded in the extreme ”

“ Gold and silver cups, vases, chains and boxes, magnificently attired priests, and solemn chanting, aid alike to dazzle the eye and charm the ear. While a numerous array of youthful attendants on the altar, stand with folded hands, or are employed in bearing candles, swinging censers of incense, carrying holy water for sprinkling, or sustaining the long trains of the priests' vestments. ”

“ A priest, arrayed in gorgeous vestments, sits cosily within; he is on his way to carry the consecrated wafer to the deathbed of some expiring penitent—a wealthy sinner, who is, of course, worthy of his attention.
As the carriage approaches, the whole of the crowd simultaneously kneel down—the men uncovering; each one utters a prayer, and the more ruffianly the worshipper, the louder his supplications are sure to be. No sooner has the vehicle turned the opposite corner, however, than a sudden change takes place: all rise from their knees ”

“ With no satisfaction in the past; no care for the present; and no hope of the future; therefore; the Indian never rises in the social scale: and perhaps his doing so would be unsatisfactory to the powers above him. While benevolent associations; religious missionaries; and enlightened governments; are striving for the amelioration of many classes of mankind; would that something could be effected towards the enlightenment of the thousands of ignorant and degraded Indians, who form the hulk of the population in Mexico! ”

“ The prisoners were among the most callous and ruffianly I had ever seen; the countenance of the man appeared hopelessly reckless and brutal; and the indifference of the woman was almost as great: she refused to make reply to the questions put to her, and very composedly smoked a cigarrito during the proceedings.
This atrocious practice of vitriol-throwing is so rife in Mexico, that its appalling evidences are frequently visible in the streets. ”

“ It is a rare thing—so rare, indeed, as to have given rise to a proverb—to hear of a priest, a bishop, or even an archbishop, throughout the country, who is either moral in his conduct, upright in his dealing's, amiable in disposition, or pious in spirit.
In many parts of Mexico the women are celebrated for their beauty; but this quality is unusually transient here, as girls become wives and mothers at an exceedingly early age. ”

“ A singular being, with coarse hair which reaches nearly to his middle, and whose large, idiotic countenance almost stamps him as the impersonation of vicious ignorance, is kneeling in as devout a position as he can command, before a little leaden image—obtained most probably by theft. ”

“ Nothing could exceed the jealous suspicion with which the Mexicans formerly regarded other nations; more particularly, perhaps, the people of the United States. The hate and rancour with which the very name of American was mentioned, while hostilities were in progress, were immeasurable. But at the present time—though similar feelings may exist in the minds of many, in a slumbering state, only waiting an opportunity to burst forth in undisguised animosity—it is to be hoped, with a large proportion, that such kindly feelings are being fostered as will lead to happy results for both countries. ”