Sir Spenser St. John

“ In the spring of 1856, I made a tour through the Chinese settlements established in Sarawak, commencing with the rice plantations and vegetable gardens established at Sungei Tañgah. I have never seen in Borneo anything more pleasing to my eye than the extensive cultivated fields which spread out around the scattered Chinese houses, each closely surrounded by beds of esculent plants growing in a most luxuriant manner. ”

“ Early that morning a large party of Chinese had crossed from the right to the left bank to burn the half of the town which had previously escaped; but though they succeeded in destroying the greater portion, they signed their own death warrant, as the Malays, now resuming the offensive, seized the remainder of their boats, and the relentless Dayaks pursued them through the forests. Not one of that party could have escaped; some wandered long in the forests and died of starvation, others were found hanging to the boughs of trees, preferring death by suicide to the lingering torments of hunger. ”

“ There is a spot at the entrance of one of the minor branches of the Sarawak river, where the curlews congregate in thousands, but only at the height of spring-tides can you get profitable shots at them. There are broad sands there, and the birds spread over them to feed; by degrees the rising waters gradually press them back towards the wooded shore; and as beach after beach is covered, they fly screaming above in wide circles, gradually narrowing till they all settle on the spot near which the sportsmen lie concealed, either behind scattered bushes, or in a prepared bower of leafy branches. ”

“ Old Japer is a store-house of information; he is so well acquainted with the countries between Sarawak and Brunei. He has a thorough faith in ghosts and spirits, and tells of many an adventure with them; of the Antus who caused the death of the wax-hunters, by pushing them off the meñgiris or tapang-tree. When the unfortunate men, from inefficient preparations, as their companions not keeping up a great fire under the trees to stupefy the bees, are so stung as to let go their hold, the natural explanation is never taken; they fly to their superstitions. ”

“ We had another very happy find to-day, for while passing under a fine tapang-tree, we noticed the remains of a bees’ nest scattered about, and every particle was eagerly appropriated. From the marks around it appeared as if a bear had climbed this lofty tree and torn down the nest to be devoured by its young below, as there were numerous tracks of the smaller animals around, but whether the comb had been sucked by the bears or not was very immaterial to our men, who rejoiced in securing the little honey still clinging to it. ”

“ With feelings of the most acute distress these few Englishmen, under their brave leader, put out to sea to bear away eastward; when a cry arose among the men, “Smoke, smoke, it is a steamer!” and sure enough there was a dark column rising in the air from a three-masted vessel; for a moment it was uncertain which course she was steering, but presently they distinguished her flag; it was the Sir James Brooke, the Borneo company’s steamer, standing right in for the Muaratabas entrance of the Sarawak River. ”

“ It presents no very striking features; the long, low, dark fort and whitewashed houses, intermixed with a few groves of cocoa-nuts, with forest on either side, and the hills, some cleared and some wooded, rising about seven miles inland, suggest a rough idea of this pleasant little town. The plain around is very well cultivated; as you walk along the roads—very much like English country ones—you have a continual series of large rice fields, cocoa-nut groves, now swelling into extensive plantations, then a few round a detached cottage, and intermixed with these are great quantities of bananas. ”

“ The sultan’s power is very limited, though the datus still send parties to raise contributions from the neighbouring towns, villages, and islands. In all decaying states we find religion neglected, and here, I imagine, it is held but in slight respect; their houses of prayer being like a tumble-down barn, and the inhabitants indulging in the use of wine, and occasionally pork.
Mr. Wyndham told us an amusing story of an old datu, who, going on business to a Chinese trader, began to find a delicious odour insinuatingly creeping over his senses. ”

“ Within the territory of Sarawak there are, as I have said, many districts totally unoccupied—as Samarahan and Sadong, with its population of Land Dayaks. And the branches of the great river Batang Lupar, occupied by Sea Dayaks, are all free to new-comers, except Lingga. The Seribas, the Kalaka, the Rejang, and the rivers flowing out of the hundred and thirty miles of coast between the last and Bintulu, are totally untouched by the missionaries.
What a field it offers to brave and earnest men! ”

“ In the evenings the datu would talk over the tales they had heard from other fishermen, and the chief delighted to recount the story of the vast pearl which was seen by the men of old, and actually brought in its oyster into a canoe, but had slipped from the fingers of the incautious captor. The natives declare that the oysters containing the largest pearls are always open, until you approach them, and that by cautiously peering into the water, they may be seen. ”

“ As I have said before, it has the name of government, but not the reality.
Crime is unpunished, if committed by a relative or a follower of a high noble, as no one will act against him for fear of the enmity of his chief. There is a man in Brunei, named Sirudin Buñgkul, who is the most notorious thief in the capital. He lives in very good style on the result of his achievements, and is admitted into the best society. He is never punished, as he is a follower of the chief minister, the pañgeran bandhara. ”

“ The Orang Kaya Upit has not made his appearance: I only regret the rice we left at Si Lopong’s—he may come to-night; but I have never expected him to follow so soon. It has been showery all the afternoon, and I fear a wet night. We have made four rafts: old Japer commands one with three men, Minudin with three more, Lamit and three, then Musa, with three Malays, a boy, Ahtan, and myself. Ours is a very strong raft of bamboo; the others appear but very shaky affairs, the men being too lazy to work well at them. ”

“ The Brunei government possesses no armed force beyond the power of calling out the population as militia, who rarely respond to the call, as they are neither fed nor paid during their time of service, and are generally required to perform acts repugnant to their real interests. It possesses neither war boats nor police, and is incapable of organizing an expedition to attack a neighbouring district, and is, without exception, one of the most contemptible semblances of power that ever existed. ”

“ The ravages of the bears were distressing. They destroyed a Deane’s pistol-case, tore open my box of books, and ruined them; reduced the cloth to shreds, and tumbled it into the mud, where the white ants afterwards finished the spoiling; opened the tin boxes containing the sugar and biscuits, and of course devoured them; so that I have nothing left but coffee and arrack. After Musa had cooked a meal, a very frugal one, he went off with a party to fetch the garei, hoping to find a little sago left, but was disappointed. ”

“ The appearance of the country from the sea is very beautiful, many of the hills rising to a peak some 2,000 feet above the level of the sea; while others are lower and wooded, and form an agreeable contrast. Several of these eminences are forest-covered to the summit, while many present alternate patches of rice cultivation, pasture land, groves of cocoa-nut, palms, gardens, and detached clumps of forest trees. ”

“ Though, perhaps, gold-working pays on the whole more than other labour, the men are kept so very hard at work that the ranks are not easily filled; yet they are allowed five meals a day, with as much rice as they can eat, a good supply of salt fish and pork, and tea always ready. At their meals the Chinese are very fond of drinking their weak arrack, or samshu, raw, but as nearly approaching a boiling state as the lips can endure.
Our tour then led us to the neighbourhood of the antimony mines of Bidi, where the Bornean company are at present working that metal with success. ”

“ As we passed before the fort I could see numerous guns displaying their adamantine lips through the embrasures; and I learned from our companion that the Sulus possess about 150 brass guns, besides innumerable iron ones. In the market-place, crowds of armed men were assembled, looking eagerly and anxiously at us. We landed at the little bridge, and learning that Molok was at the sultan’s palace, we proceeded thither, escorted by about half a dozen men armed with long spears, and followed by a crowd of men, women, and children. ”

“ As far as material comfort adds to the happiness of man, the Dayaks have reason to be thankful: whatever they earn, they enjoy; a tax of four shillings on every family is the amount levied on them by government: after that is paid they are free from every exaction. Not only have they the produce of their [294] industry, but the wealth derived from their forests of fruit-trees, a market for which can always be found among the Chinese and Malays. Many of the caves likewise produce the edible bird’s nest, which is another source of profit. ”

“ The Chinese have no difficulty in amalgamating with the native inhabitants, and to a certain extent can always obtain wives, as Borneo, like England, appears to possess a redundant female population. The men are, of course, exposed to many more dangers than the women, and these latter are so fond of their own homes that they seldom remove far from their parents. But now there appears to be no difficulty in procuring female emigrants, and if the present rebellion continue to desolate China we might remove all the inhabitants of a village together. ”

“ No relative is abandoned because he is poor, or because an injury or an illness may have incapacitated him for work. I like the Malays, although I must allow that I became weary of having only them with whom to associate.
Sarawak appears to the natives of the western coast of Borneo what an oasis must be to the wandering Arab, and it is often visited by the people of the neighbouring countries to examine as a sort of curiosity. ”

“ The villagers of Balat Ikan, inhabited by Muruts, trusting to the usual alarm signal, kept no watch, and were easily surprised.
From time immemorial, it has been a custom among the inhabitants of these villages to beat an alarm on their gongs on the first appearance of an enemy, or when some great misfortune has happened. It puts the people on the alert, as when I lost my boat on a snag in the Madalam, the report spread I was drowned or in trouble, and the alarm signal was beaten, and I met a dozen boats coming to the rescue, or to inquire into the truth of the report. ”

“ Labuan possesses one of the finest forests I have seen in Borneo, and is admirably situated for three objects—to suppress piracy, to influence the neighbouring countries, and to increase commerce by many means. Among the last, I may mention the numerous coal seams which are found in the island; that they have not been yet developed is no matter of surprise to those who are familiar with the early management; and that they will be hereafter of the utmost importance is the confident belief of those who are best acquainted with the island. ”

“ There can be little doubt, judging from the character of the two people, that the nobles would endeavour to squeeze out of the foreign planters as much as possible; that they would fine them heavily for very slight faults, till they would drive the Chinese to resistance, and insurrections would as surely follow among a people who always unite against other races. They are no match for the Malays and Dayaks in wild warfare; and it is only their organization which enables them to offer any resistance to the desultory attacks of their enemies. ”

“ Some of the men, who wandered farther than the others in search of wild fruits, reported seeing some very large monkeys, which they said might be orang-utans, and whilst speaking of them I was reminded of the various stories told of people being carried off by them. I have referred to this subject in my account of my journeys among the Sea Dayaks, but although many stories are related of the male orang-utan carrying off young Dayak maidens into the jungle, yet it is seldom that we hear of the female orang-utan running off with a man. ”

“ In fact, a generation is springing up, with new ideas and more enlarged views, who appear to appreciate the working of their present government, and have a pride in being connected with it.
By associating these men in the administration, and thus educating them in political life, and by setting the example of a great equality in social intercourse, Sir James Brooke laid the foundation of a government which stood a shock that many of his best friends expected would prove fatal. I mean the Chinese insurrection. ”

“ The men are on shore, searching for vegetables, pumpkins, cucumbers, and fruit at the site of the Tabun village, burnt down last year by the Kayans. The plants grew up in great strength round the ruins, and afford supplies to every visitor. This is the fourth time we have helped ourselves, but to-day the pig-hunters having been before us, there are but few left. The fruit-trees are covered with a young crop, but none are ripe; everything, however, is eagerly appropriated by my men, who have brought but little to eat with their rice. ”

“ I have generally found that those Chinese who come direct from their own country are better adapted to succeed with the native chiefs than those who have resided long in our own settlements, where they acquired [319] an independence almost amounting to lawlessness. I once nearly lost my life through the reckless conduct of one of these Singapore Chinese, who had been accustomed to treat the Malays there with great contumely. When he arrived in Brunei, he did the same thing with a crazy man belonging to the Pablat section of the town, and the Chinese quarter was thrown into confusion. ”