Antigua and Barbuda

“ Perhaps it may be considered almost an impertinence in me to remark​—​the fact is so well known both in England and the West Indies​—​that, among this numerous body of her majesty’s subjects, there are some of the highest respectability. Every West Indian island has its élite, and Antigua is not behind the rest. Many, very many, could be mentioned, who are superior in every way​—​well-read, strong-minded, with excellent natural talents, and unexceptionable, both in public and private life. ”

“ Far from it; an attentive perusal of these pages will prove, on the contrary, that there are to be found among them families, whose genealogical tree bears many a goodly shoot​—​through whose veins runs a stream of England’s richest blood: the names of Warner, Williams, Byam, Martin, Ottleys, with many others, have long stood pre-eminent in the annals of Antigua; while their descendants have kept up their high station in the society of the island. ”

“ As the traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland, twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this, equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the more humble gig, alike have to pass, while shoals of fairy-like fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on with their dazzling coruscations.
Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object, as the stranger approaches Antigua. ”

“ The road rises about 180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt precipice clothed with the dwarf acacia and “milk-bush”​—​those ever-to-be-found productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones, loosely piled, borders the edge of the road, which would prove but a sorry guard against any accident. In the steepest part of the hill, we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful but treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the precipice. ”

“ A few minutes’ drive brought us to “Old Road,” so called because it was the first high-road made in Antigua.
This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards architective arrangement, a perfect nondescript; for streets there are none, but here and there a straggling house. There is the beach, indeed, which may justly be termed “the strand;” but, unlike that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid shops​—​no arcades or bazaars, with their “euterpeons”​—​no brilliant lines of lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy passengers. ”

“ From the period when Antigua was first settled by the English, the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in the constant habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the most fearful and horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants. So frequent and barbarous were these attacks, that the colony at one time was in danger of being abandoned; and nothing but firm and vigorous measures on the part of the English could restrain the fury of their Indian adversaries, and quell their turbulent assaults. ”

“ Just at the termination of the first descent is one of the sweetest spots in Antigua. It is one of tranquillity and repose. The fierce beams of the sun are excluded by the umbrageous foliage of the trees, around whose trunks various creepers entwine themselves, and throw their slender limbs from one to the other of these
“Green-robed senators of mighty woods,”
forming many beauteous alcoves, carpeted with the lowlier flowers; whilst the “purple wreath” hangs its tasseled blossoms on all sides, and gives an air of lightness to the whole. ”

“ William Lord Willoughby of Parham Captn Generall and Chief Governor of Barbados and the rest of the Caribee Islands, To all whom these presents shall come greeting​—​Whereas the King’s most excellent Majestie hath by due Conquest regained to himself ye sole and absolute right and propriet unto and in ye said Island of Antigua and every part thereof. ”

“ Baxter’s death, the Wesleyan society has been rapidly progressing, not only in Antigua, but in all the other West India Islands, although Antigua is still looked upon as the parent church; and in 1842, the society in that island consisted of about 2700 members. Beside the chapel in St. John’s, they have places of worship at Parham, English Harbour, Willoughby Bay, and elsewhere. ”

“ The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although the average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered one of the most healthy in the West Indies.
The history of Antigua may be said to commence with its discovery by Columbus, for although it was at that period, and subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear not to have made it a place of permanent residence; the want of water, which caused European settlers so long to neglect the island, deterring them also from establishing themselves upon it. ”

“ The court house is a very noble-looking pile for a West India colony, and indeed would not disgrace the boasted streets of London. The plan of the structure is very uniform and neat. It is built of a fine-grained freestone, the produce of some of the small islands already described, which was furnished by contract for the purpose by Mr. Robert Bannister, a former planter of Antigua. ”

“ But, with all its rocks and breakers, beautiful, very beautiful are the scenes which present themselves to your notice, as, seated upon the deck of some vessel, whose graceful sails are filled with a fresh and favourable breeze, you skirt along the sunny shores of lovely little Antigua. It has happened, in some of my frequent trips around the island, that, although the breeze has been fair, it was so light as scarcely to lift the canvas from the mast. ”

“ Suffice it to say that as Trinidad is the best off of the British possessions in the Caribbean Sea, so Antigua is the poorest; it has even been necessary to cut down the official salaries. The failure of sugar is the reason of its poverty. The Governor of the Leeward Islands resides at Antigua. We stood 4 miles out from St John’s, the chief town of that island, where heavy seas made the landing most difficult. ”

“ After copying these inscriptions, and casting one more glance round this rustic church, we returned to our carriage, and proceeded on our journey to “Crab Hill.” Before relating the rest of our adventures, I must remark, that the line of conduct pursued by the sexton of “Old Road” is not common in Antigua, such officials being generally very obliging.
Near to “Old Road” is a pond, which is formed by the hand of nature into a complete bason. ”

“ Antigua remained neglected by all the various European adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured spots, until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards, under the Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, who had received letters-patent from the King of Spain to colonize Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu, Deseada, Dominica, and Martinique, landed, and driving off the few Caribs they found there, attempted to establish themselves ”

“ Some of the other islands were inhabited by a similar race; but the people of Hispaniola, Cuba, Jamaica, and Porto Rico were decidedly of a different family​—​mild, temperate, and indolent, they were a certain prey to the ferocious cannibals.
The Caribs of Antigua were first conquered by the Spaniards in 1521, and after trying to make them work as slaves without effect, they were finally driven from off the island. As in the other islands, fire and sword came among them, and the ancient people of the soil are no more. ”

“ The population of Antigua is about 37,000, of whom 30,000 are negroes--lately slaves--4500 are free people of color, and 2500 are whites.
The cultivation of the island is principally in sugar, of which the average annual crop is 15,000 hogsheads. Antigua is one of the oldest of the British West India colonies, and ranks high in importance and influence. Owing to the proportion of proprietors resident in the Island, there is an accumulation of talent, intelligence and refinement, greater, perhaps, than in any English colony, excepting Jamaica. ”

“ For the present-day traveler who is interested in earthquakes and their effects and in the ruins of Spanish architecture, nothing more entertaining can be found than a visit to La Antigua, which can be reached from Guatemala City by a few hours' ride in carriage or on horseback. Antigua stretches through the beautiful and fertile valley which in the Indian language means dry lake because the tradition exists that in prehistoric times there was a fine sheet of water covering the land. The panorama which delights the eye from any elevated point of Antigua is glorious. ”

“ Thus have I narrated the reduction of Antigua by the French, following the steps of their own historian, “Du Tertre,” who of course speaks in favour of his own countrymen. Antigua remained a French colony, although of no use to the nation, except from the plunder obtained from it, until the following year, when by the treaty of Breda, Louis XIV. restored it to the English crown. [19] The French appear to have ever doubted their success ”

“ During Colonel Modiford’s stay at Barbados, it was represented to him how far more advantageous it would be to purchase an estate in that island, already planted, and from which immediate emolument might be derived, than to proceed to an infant colony, where he would have to undergo all the fatigues and privations incident upon establishing a plantation. Colonel Modiford, listening to this advice, purchased the half of an estate for 7000l., an immense sum at that day, and thus constituted himself a Barbados planter, instead of adhering to his first resolution, of becoming a settler of Antigua. ”

“ Thwaites that, in almost every instance, the pupils who have left the schools under his charge have followed agricultural employments. To a country whose grand resource, and, indeed, entire dependence, is placed upon the cultivation of the sugar-cane, this conduct upon the part of its rising generation must be very important; and if the lower classes continue to do so, and not, because they are free, despise the hoe, Antigua may stand forth as pre-eminently flourishing among the other West Indian colonies. ”

“ To resume our description of these ancient possessors of Antigua​—​these warlike Caribs. Vanity is a passion which to a greater or lesser degree pervades the breast of almost every mortal, and the savage in his native wilds feels the force of it in the same manner, although, perhaps, not to the same extent, as the giddy fair who whirls round the vortex of dissipation within the purlieus of May Fair. When first discovered by the Spaniards, the Caribs were habited in different fashions ”

“ During a long succession of dry weather, and when there was but very little water to be found in Antigua, one of these water-merchants, if I may be allowed to use that expression, went to Monserrat (a small island a few hours’ sail from Antigua) for a cargo of this useful beverage. Upon his return he asked an extravagant price for it; the poor people murmured; but what was to be done? Water must be had; and in the end the hard-earned wages of many a one found their way into the pockets of this “Aquarius.” ”

“ Although we have no such miserable objects in Antigua, still I am persuaded that, were it the case, the negroes of this island would not be behind their Barbadian brethren in these acts of charity; for whenever any European sailors get out of employ, and wander about the streets in a state of misery, (although brought on by their own misdemeanour in most instances,) the Antiguan negroes extend to them their bounty, taking them to their houses and giving them food, and not unfrequently small sums of money. ”

“ There is, however, a tradition still extant in Antigua, which most probably relates to this catastrophe. In the first years of this island becoming an English colony, it was, of course, but thinly peopled by Europeans, and consequently there was but little force to repel any invasion. Parties of Caribs from the different islands, particularly Dominica, used frequently to land upon it, and distress the inhabitants. In these invasions, no mercy was shewn, no quarter given, to the unhappy people who fell in their power, and after a combat, numerous were the bodies left upon the field of battle. ”

“ Parham harbour, although it affords safe anchorage when gained, is dangerous to the inexperienced navigator from the number of shoals and reefs which encumber its approach. It also contains some few islands, of which Bethel’s Island is the largest. This harbour is protected from the inroads of the enemy by Port Byam, erected upon Barnacle Point, and which derives its name from Colonel Edward Byam, some-time governor of Antigua. ”

“ It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party, but finding, on examination, that it was peopled only by a few Caribs, who possessed nothing that was serviceable to the Spaniards, and who were, probably, only casual visitants, and that the island was destitute of fresh water, he contented himself with giving it a name, Antigua, from the church of St. Mary of Antigua, at Seville, and abandoned it. There is a tradition that the name given to the island by the natives was “Xaymaca,” signifying the “land of springs;” ”

“ It must not be supposed that all the barristers of the island in question engage in such diversified occupations; many of them pay as much respect to their profession as their brethren of Antigua do, and among them are to be found some very clever men. ”

“ CHAPTER XXVI. Towns: Falmouth​—​Church and churchyard​—​Mangroves and acacias​—​Black’s Point​—​Bridgetown​—​Willoughby Bay​—​Its site and decoration​—​The superintendent of the Wesleyan schools​—​School-room​—​Methodist chapel​—​The Memoras​—​St Philip’s church​—​Beautiful views​—​Parham​—​Its derivation and site​—​St Peter’s church​—​Churchyard​—​The new church​—​Methodist chapel and school-room.
In the year 1675, six towns were appointed in Antigua as places of trade​—​viz., St. John’s, Falmouth, Old Road, (or Carlisle Road,) Bridgetown, Willoughby Bay, Bermudian Valley, and Parham. ”