Antigua

“ For the present-day traveler who is interested in earthquakes and their effects and in the ruins of Spanish architecture, nothing more entertaining can be found than a visit to La Antigua, which can be reached from Guatemala City by a few hours' ride in carriage or on horseback. Antigua stretches through the beautiful and fertile valley which in the Indian language means dry lake because the tradition exists that in prehistoric times there was a fine sheet of water covering the land. The panorama which delights the eye from any elevated point of Antigua is glorious. ”

“ Perhaps it may be considered almost an impertinence in me to remark​—​the fact is so well known both in England and the West Indies​—​that, among this numerous body of her majesty’s subjects, there are some of the highest respectability. Every West Indian island has its élite, and Antigua is not behind the rest. Many, very many, could be mentioned, who are superior in every way​—​well-read, strong-minded, with excellent natural talents, and unexceptionable, both in public and private life. ”

“ The road rises about 180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt precipice clothed with the dwarf acacia and “milk-bush”​—​those ever-to-be-found productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones, loosely piled, borders the edge of the road, which would prove but a sorry guard against any accident. In the steepest part of the hill, we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful but treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the precipice. ”

“ As the traveller nears the fort, an arm of the sea runs far inland, twisting and twining its rippling waters amid the clumps of aquatic shrubs in a most snake-like manner. Through this, equestrians and pedestrians, the emblazoned carriage, and the more humble gig, alike have to pass, while shoals of fairy-like fish dart from their parent waters in all directions; and as the sunbeams catch their silvery scales, almost blind the looker-on with their dazzling coruscations.
Rat Island Battery is of itself a most picturesque object, as the stranger approaches Antigua. ”

“ For many miles it winds slowly and heavily through the deep and shifting soil, until, as the traveller approaches the river Antigua, the country begins to rise and fall by gentle elevations like the first heavy swells of the ocean. ”

“ The Island of Antigua, one of the great Antilles, is situated in the Caribbean Sea, about twenty-five miles to the north-east of Montserrat, and forty miles north of Guadaloupe, in latitude seventeen degrees north, and longitude sixty-two degrees, or thereabouts, the measurement in these respects not being more exact than those of its length and breadth, which are variously stated at 21, 20, and 18 miles for its length, and 21, 20, and 17, for its breadth. ”

“ The first physician in Antigua is a Dr. F., a man of versatile and brilliant talents​—​an able logician, well versed in polite literature, of energetic manner, and, what is above all, possessed of deep, heart-felt philanthropy, based upon that golden maxim, “Do unto others as you would have others do unto you.”
Some of the proprietors’ dwellings, situated upon their several estates, in the most cultivated parts of the island, are mansions which would not disgrace the parks of our English country gentlemen. ”

“ Antigua remained neglected by all the various European adventurers, who hastened in crowds to other more favoured spots, until the year 1520, when a small party of Spaniards, under the Licentiate Don Antonio Serrano, who had received letters-patent from the King of Spain to colonize Antigua, Montserrat, Barbadu, Deseada, Dominica, and Martinique, landed, and driving off the few Caribs they found there, attempted to establish themselves ”

“ It was not until his second voyage, in the year 1493, that Columbus discovered Antigua. He landed with a party, but finding, on examination, that it was peopled only by a few Caribs, who possessed nothing that was serviceable to the Spaniards, and who were, probably, only casual visitants, and that the island was destitute of fresh water, he contented himself with giving it a name, Antigua, from the church of St. Mary of Antigua, at Seville, and abandoned it. There is a tradition that the name given to the island by the natives was “Xaymaca,” signifying the “land of springs;” ”

“ Registrar of Antigua, to ——— Edmead, Esq., to Captain George B. Mathew, of the Guards, the Rev. D. F. Warner, and others.
In conclusion, may the Great Giver of all good pour down His choicest blessings upon this beautiful and favoured little island; may her legislators be ably endowed in all true principles of jurisprudence; may her planters be blest with kindly showers, so that their golden canes may raise their “tall plumes” in luxuriance; may her merchants, the prop of every civilized state, be prosperous​—​her peasantry happy and good, as they are free ”

“ The greatest fault to be found with these kitchen gentry, these black cooks of Antigua, is, that while from various meats and spices they are compounding ambrosial food for their masters, they forget the rules of equity, and, like the lordly lion of the forest, keep the largest share for themselves. ”

“ During a long succession of dry weather, and when there was but very little water to be found in Antigua, one of these water-merchants, if I may be allowed to use that expression, went to Monserrat (a small island a few hours’ sail from Antigua) for a cargo of this useful beverage. Upon his return he asked an extravagant price for it; the poor people murmured; but what was to be done? Water must be had; and in the end the hard-earned wages of many a one found their way into the pockets of this “Aquarius.” ”

“ When Sir Thomas returns, most inopportunely, from Antigua, we lay down the book with a sigh of gentle satisfaction, knowing that we shall find all these people in the morning just where they belong, and not, after the fashion of some modern novels, spirited overnight to the antipodes, with a breakneck gap of months or years to be spanned by our drooping imaginations. ”

“ From the period when Antigua was first settled by the English, the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in the constant habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the most fearful and horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants. So frequent and barbarous were these attacks, that the colony at one time was in danger of being abandoned; and nothing but firm and vigorous measures on the part of the English could restrain the fury of their Indian adversaries, and quell their turbulent assaults. ”

“ S. is a scion of a goodly stock. His ancestors emigrated from the mother country, and became settlers in Antigua, in which island they filled official situations at an early period, and where they have ever maintained a high character for philanthropy and liberal principles, even in days of prejudicial darkness. ”

“ A few minutes’ drive brought us to “Old Road,” so called because it was the first high-road made in Antigua.
This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards architective arrangement, a perfect nondescript; for streets there are none, but here and there a straggling house. There is the beach, indeed, which may justly be termed “the strand;” but, unlike that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid shops​—​no arcades or bazaars, with their “euterpeons”​—​no brilliant lines of lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy passengers. ”

“ Thus have I narrated the reduction of Antigua by the French, following the steps of their own historian, “Du Tertre,” who of course speaks in favour of his own countrymen. Antigua remained a French colony, although of no use to the nation, except from the plunder obtained from it, until the following year, when by the treaty of Breda, Louis XIV. restored it to the English crown. [19] The French appear to have ever doubted their success ”

“ The climate is remarkable for want of moisture, although the average fall of rain is forty-five inches. It is considered one of the most healthy in the West Indies.
The history of Antigua may be said to commence with its discovery by Columbus, for although it was at that period, and subsequently, frequented by the Caribs, they appear not to have made it a place of permanent residence; the want of water, which caused European settlers so long to neglect the island, deterring them also from establishing themselves upon it. ”

“ To resume our description of these ancient possessors of Antigua​—​these warlike Caribs. Vanity is a passion which to a greater or lesser degree pervades the breast of almost every mortal, and the savage in his native wilds feels the force of it in the same manner, although, perhaps, not to the same extent, as the giddy fair who whirls round the vortex of dissipation within the purlieus of May Fair. When first discovered by the Spaniards, the Caribs were habited in different fashions ”

“ The Antigua that once sheltered eighty thousand inhabitants, beautiful in its situation and distinguished by its architectural display, is still attractive in its ruins; its forty thousand inhabitants go in and out under the shadow of the volcano and await the next destruction, which may come to-morrow or years hence: the lesson that is past is all forgotten. ”

“ Having been resident in Antigua both before and after the passing of the Emancipation Act, and having had ample opportunity of judging of the practical effects of that memorable event, the observations I have made with relation to it may not be considered altogether unimportant.
In perusing the early history of the colony, the English reader may be surprised to find how many men of family became early settlers in the West Indies ”

“ Antigua is not always devoid of public exhibitions. A juggler, or a rope-dancer, now and then makes his appearance, and having procured an empty store or loft, throws his body into ten thousand different contortions, for the amusement of those who feel inclined to throw in their dollars. ”

“ After copying these inscriptions, and casting one more glance round this rustic church, we returned to our carriage, and proceeded on our journey to “Crab Hill.” Before relating the rest of our adventures, I must remark, that the line of conduct pursued by the sexton of “Old Road” is not common in Antigua, such officials being generally very obliging.
Near to “Old Road” is a pond, which is formed by the hand of nature into a complete bason. ”

“ Although in Antigua the tide does not ebb and flow more than from six to twelve inches in ordinary instances.
[67] “Pic’nee” is the negro term for children.
CHAPTER XVIII. Description of the town of St. John’s, the capital of Antigua​—​Situation​—​Arrangement of the streets​—​Hucksters​—​Houses​—​Springs​—​Small shops​—​Stores of the retail dealers​—​Grog-shops​—​Merchants’ stores and lumber yards​—​Definition of lumber​—​Auction sales​—​Scotch Row and Scotchmen​—​Incongruous display of goods​—​Fire in 1797​—​Ruins​—​Fire in 1841​—​Its devastations. ”

“ William Lord Willoughby of Parham Captn Generall and Chief Governor of Barbados and the rest of the Caribee Islands, To all whom these presents shall come greeting​—​Whereas the King’s most excellent Majestie hath by due Conquest regained to himself ye sole and absolute right and propriet unto and in ye said Island of Antigua and every part thereof. ”

“ CHAPTER XVI. Scenery of Antigua​—​Pilgrimage to “Tom Moore’s Spring”​—​The Goddess Mnemosyne​—​Fig-Tree Hill​—​The “Bower of Bliss”​—​“Old Road”​—​The Strand​—​The cross sexton​—​The parochial school​—​Old Road Church​—​Tomb of Col. Williams​—​Moravian settlement​—​Salt ponds​—​Copses​—​“Crab Hill”​—​Sandy Valley​—​The Valley Church​—​The rising moon​—​Arrival in town​—​Night, and night dreams.
With respect to the scenery of Antigua, it is said to be neither “grand nor magnificent,” that “its mountains are too much like mole-hills,” [62] and in many other ways has it been depreciated ”

“ The population of Antigua is about 37,000, of whom 30,000 are negroes--lately slaves--4500 are free people of color, and 2500 are whites.
The cultivation of the island is principally in sugar, of which the average annual crop is 15,000 hogsheads. Antigua is one of the oldest of the British West India colonies, and ranks high in importance and influence. Owing to the proportion of proprietors resident in the Island, there is an accumulation of talent, intelligence and refinement, greater, perhaps, than in any English colony, excepting Jamaica. ”

“ There are many worthy industrious characters among this class of persons in Antigua; not famous, it is true, for any great display of abilities, or of superior talents, like Juan Parega, or our friend Sancho, but men of sound mind, well-behaved, and clever in producing little articles of native manufacture. A fancy sale was held in this island in January, 1837, and among the contributions was a miniature sugar-mill, with all its vanes &c. ”

“ Far from it; an attentive perusal of these pages will prove, on the contrary, that there are to be found among them families, whose genealogical tree bears many a goodly shoot​—​through whose veins runs a stream of England’s richest blood: the names of Warner, Williams, Byam, Martin, Ottleys, with many others, have long stood pre-eminent in the annals of Antigua; while their descendants have kept up their high station in the society of the island. ”

“ For the particulars of this case, I am indebted to an old man well known in Antigua. He bears the burthen of eighty-six years, and is still as active and strong as many a one only half that age. I heard him speak very highly of our late gracious majesty William IV., who, when he was in the navy, visited Antigua for some time. “Prince Henry was a good young gentleman, God bless his memory!” cried the old man. “I used to wait upon him, and have often heard him speak of what good he would do, should he ever come to the throne. He has spared many a black person a good flogging. ”