Mrs. Lanaghan

“ The road rises about 180 feet from the sea, in an abrupt precipice clothed with the dwarf acacia and “milk-bush”​—​those ever-to-be-found productions of Antigua. A low wall of stones, loosely piled, borders the edge of the road, which would prove but a sorry guard against any accident. In the steepest part of the hill, we looked over, and watched in silence the beautiful but treacherous waves, as they laved the rocky base of the precipice. ”

“ Suffering as the inhabitants do, from the great heat of the days, the delightful evenings are particularly enjoyed. No sooner has the sun hidden his rays in the bosom of the ocean, than the land-breeze arises; this, blowing as it were from the centre of the island, towards the sea, appears to come from all points of the compass at once. Evening is the time for walking ”

“ From the west door, the eye ranges over the bustling town, with its motley groups of passengers​—​dwells for a time upon the long line of ruined buildings destroyed by the fire already described​—​scans the lovely harbour, with its graceful shipping, the interesting bay of the Five Islands on the one side, and, on the other, a long line of cocoa-nut trees and brilliant sand, bespeaking the situation of Dickenson’s Bay​—​and then roves on to the offing, where a large extent of ocean of the sweetest blue stretches out ”

“ Just at the termination of the first descent is one of the sweetest spots in Antigua. It is one of tranquillity and repose. The fierce beams of the sun are excluded by the umbrageous foliage of the trees, around whose trunks various creepers entwine themselves, and throw their slender limbs from one to the other of these
“Green-robed senators of mighty woods,”
forming many beauteous alcoves, carpeted with the lowlier flowers; whilst the “purple wreath” hangs its tasseled blossoms on all sides, and gives an air of lightness to the whole. ”

“ In a moment the streets are inundated, and the falling of the large drops upon the shingled roofs of the houses is quite deafening.
But at the same time these rains constitute the Antiguan’s greatest blessing, for not only do they revive the parched and thirsty earth, cool the atmosphere, promote the growth of the sugar cane, and dress nature in her loveliest garb; but from having (as before mentioned) only two or three fresh-water springs in the island, and those far inland, their chief supplies of that necessary fluid are derived from these showers. ”

“ It was this year that slaves were condemned to work in the streets, for the first time, as a punishment for offences. If any slave was committed to jail for refusing to give their owner’s name, they were put to such work until claimed; when convicted of a crime less than felony, they were to be kept to hard labour in the streets for the space of three months; and if they had been sentenced to death, and afterwards pardoned by the governor, his excellency could annex to such pardon an order for the guilty slaves to work in the streets for any time he thought proper. ”

“ The rock upon which it is built appears to overhang the sea; and the waves, from constantly fretting and foaming around its base, have completely undermined it. If all proper precautions be not taken, the fort and its accompaniments will, some day, probably make a rapid descent into the yawning gulf beneath, and its avenging weapons no longer vomit forth their flaming breath upon the dauntless vessel who dares to pass it, without tendering to its captain his expected dole. ”

“ Philip’s, the parish church, is situated upon an ascent, at some distance from Bridgetown, and commands one of the finest views to be met with in any part of the country. The eye ranges with delight over sloping hills and open glades; wood-crowned mountains, and silent valleys. Sugar plantations, in all the beauty of high cultivation, spread out their fields of rich and wavy green beneath our feet, interspersed with groups of simple negro huts, almost hid in their leafy enclosures ”

“ On all sides of Antigua did the battle rage; island after island surrendered either to French or English prowess; and the fears of the Antiguans were raised for the safety of their little domicile. Nor was war alone the only impending evil she had to dread; the heavens withheld their bounty, and the country fainted beneath a burning sun; famine, it was supposed, would be the result, and had it not been for the interposition of his gracious majesty George III., by advancing 20,000l. sterling to procure subsistence for the negroes, their fears would have proved too true. ”

“ A few minutes’ drive brought us to “Old Road,” so called because it was the first high-road made in Antigua.
This town, if town it can be called, is, as regards architective arrangement, a perfect nondescript; for streets there are none, but here and there a straggling house. There is the beach, indeed, which may justly be termed “the strand;” but, unlike that far-famed street in London, boasts no splendid shops​—​no arcades or bazaars, with their “euterpeons”​—​no brilliant lines of lamps, or crowds of well-dressed and busy passengers. ”

“ If only in respect to the old and noble family of the Paynes, Lord Ralph’s last resting-place should not be thus dishonoured; a few flowers should shed their sweets around; a few trees should shade that old grey tomb. There is a very handsome monument erected to his memory in the church of St. John’s, which will be further mentioned in the description of that edifice. Lord Lavington’s family, on his father’s side, had long been resident in St. Christopher’s, where they were of great eminence and distinction, having filled some of the highest offices in that island. ”

“ The year 1706 is celebrated in the annals of Antigua as that in which that abominable and atrocious governor, Daniel Parke, arrived to blast for a time with his unhallowed breath this beautiful little island. Parke was an American of rather low birth, a tobacco-planter in the state of Virginia, but who succeeded in marrying a lady of good fortune, and of a respectable family in that province. As money was the only thing he cared for in this alliance, he contrived to secure that, and then left his wife a prey to sorrow and regret, for having sacrificed her peace for a handsome but unworthy man. ”

“ Wild spirits will be abroad ere the glad sun shall set and rise again, or yon pretty stars be peeping at us; and though I think they will care for mine as they would me, still, Raphe, I would have thee prepared. When all is over​—​when you and I​—​but I need say no more, except that Bridget shall not then be ashamed to love the despised, the scorned Zulmiera,” and as she spoke, she threw back her graceful head with the air of a Cleopatra, while the bright crimson mantled in her cheeks, and increased the lustre of her eyes. ”

“ From the period when Antigua was first settled by the English, the Caribs, as we have already seen, had been in the constant habit of landing upon it, and perpetrating the most fearful and horrid acts of violence upon its inhabitants. So frequent and barbarous were these attacks, that the colony at one time was in danger of being abandoned; and nothing but firm and vigorous measures on the part of the English could restrain the fury of their Indian adversaries, and quell their turbulent assaults. ”

“ If any one killed a slave who had been absent from their owner three months, while in pursuit of them, he was entitled to the sum of three pounds; and when such slave was taken alive, the reward was doubled, the owner of any slave so killed being paid his or her value from the treasury. If a slave concealed, afforded nourishment to, or comforted a runaway, he was to be publicly whipped on the bare back with any number of stripes the justice of the peace thought proper to order; and if any free person so offended, such freeman was to be fined not less than ten pounds for the first offence. ”

“ About a stone’s throw from “Old Road,” on the top of the hill, stands a Moravian settlement, with its neat white house and chapel; there is always an air of comfort around these settlements, which speaks to an English heart; and the Moravians themselves are a quiet, well-meaning people, diligent in the discharge of their ministerial duties, and earnestly desiring their people’s welfare. May they meet their reward!
After passing the fort of “Old Road,” the next place which attracted our notice was the salt ponds, with their fringe of mangrove trees and little islands. ”

“ Still, Antigua is one of the most fertile of the West India islands, and produces, in proportion, a larger crop than most of her sister colonies. The land requires, it is true, a quantity of manure, which is one reason for estates keeping such large herds of cattle as they do; but with the assistance of that, and the blessing of the “o’ercharged clouds,” she seldom disappoints the hopes of her planters; while her sugar stands as high as any in the English markets, and her rum has long been known for its pre-eminent qualities. ”

“ Goat Hill crowns the summit of a lofty hill upon the opposite side of the harbour to Fort James. When passing it by sea, our surprise is excited when we consider how it is possible to transport the heavy artillery and stores up the steep ascent; but the road is winding, and the difficulty is much sooner overcome than would be supposed. It was on the site of this fort that the French landed, in that memorable attack upon, and reduction of, the island in 1666. ”

“ The year 1695 will be long remembered in English history as that of the siege of Namur; which action, glorious as it was, would not have been mentioned here, did not two gentlemen, well known in Antigua, make themselves conspicuous by their courage and noble bearing on that occasion. One of these distinguished characters was Christopher Codrington, Esq., son of General Codrington, the commander-in-chief, and afterwards governor himself; a gentleman not only celebrated for his bravery, where all were brave, but also as being the most accomplished person of his day. ”

“ Happy for us is it that we live in an age when Paganism, with all its accompanying horrors, has given place to the mild doctrines of Christianity​—​when this land, so beautified by the hand of Nature, is freed from those barbarous wars, those soul-sickening feasts of human flesh, which once polluted it! ”

“ The crew of two French ships of war, which chanced to be lying in the harbour, also assisted, aided by the sailors from the English and island vessels; and the gentlemen of the town, headed by the lieutenant-governor, Major McPhail, (who flew to the scene of danger stockingless and almost slipperless,) worked with undaunted courage and good-will; and by dint of energy, and pulling down several small houses, so as to make room for the flames in their gyral evolutions, at length succeeded in gaining the mastery over their formidable enemy. ”

“ If your excellency’s resentment so far prevails as to despise these our propositions, and that the public affairs must with us still suffer, as unworthy your regard and consideration, we do then, as the only and last expedient, humbly propose your excellency’s visiting some other island of the government; thereby to afford us the opportunity and means, in conjunction with the lieutenant-governor and council, to provide for the public security, to heal our divisions, restore discipline, and our broken constitution, after the best manner we can. ”

“ Thwaites’ dwelling, we met with some old friends of mine​—​a small wooden hive of “busy bees.” A pane of glass inserted into the box gave us a view of the industrious little creatures building their waxen cells, in which to store their fragrant food; but the weather was against them​—​the long drought had withered the flowers, and thus curtailed their stock of honey. There are very few bee-hives to be met with in Antigua. ”

“ During Colonel Modiford’s stay at Barbados, it was represented to him how far more advantageous it would be to purchase an estate in that island, already planted, and from which immediate emolument might be derived, than to proceed to an infant colony, where he would have to undergo all the fatigues and privations incident upon establishing a plantation. Colonel Modiford, listening to this advice, purchased the half of an estate for 7000l., an immense sum at that day, and thus constituted himself a Barbados planter, instead of adhering to his first resolution, of becoming a settler of Antigua. ”

“ The lieut.-general of our king having sent Colonel Daniel Fitche as his governor, has given him power over all the militia of this island. Thus, Sir, we are become entirely unable to give you any satisfactory answer; and, upon examination of the transactions which have taken place, we have found that they were so much to our prejudice, and in particular, sending the Caribs twice upon us, against the obligation of your articles and the laws of nations; persons who are cruel, entirely barbarous, and ignorant of God and of all civilities. ”

“ Thus, from a small beginning​—​from a few black slaves gathered together by night beneath the roof of a white man​—​this society has spread far and wide, like some huge wave, until now it boasts a vast increase of number, of every variety of shade, from the ruddy son of Britain, down to the jetty offspring of Afric’s soil. ”

“ The next edifice worthy of notice is government house. It is situated in a pleasant and open space in the suburbs, and embraces a wide extent of prospect, while from its open windows as pure a breeze may be inhaled as attainable from any dwelling in the capital. Although possessing nothing very grand in its exterior, or internal arrangements, no marble pillars or lofty arches, yet it is a pleasant, genteel West Indian residence, possessing some good apartments, and having its stabling and other out-buildings upon a respectable scale. ”

“ To bear with an unflinching spirit the most excruciating torments, inflicted by the hands of his own father and nearest kin​—​to suffer all the severities and unnatural cruelties which the savage breast was capable of imagining without betraying one symptom of weakness​—​to rise superior to pain, and baffle the rage of his persecutors by calmness and tranquillity, was the test by which the courage of the young Carib was tried. ”