Bulb (plant)

“ There are four or five varieties of the above, showy flowers, and singular in appearance. They require a deep rich loamy soil, and if in beds, plant them from three to four inches deep, and one foot apart. They will grow under shade of trees, or any situation where the soil is adapted for them. No imbricated or scaly bulb ought to be retained long out of the ground. When any of these are lifted, and the young bulbs taken off, they should be planted at once. See particularly on bulbous roots in general next month. ”

“ When such a bulb is cut down the middle, it is seen to be mainly composed of leaves or leaf-bases, swollen with stored food. Inside these are the young leaves and the flower bud, which would have expanded next season; and on the outside are a few thin scale leaves. All these leaves spring from a fleshy button at the base, which gives off roots below. The button is the flattened stem. When a plant produces a bulb it will generally be found that it flowers either very early or very late in the season ”

“ Most bulb catalogues give specific cultural recommendations that are helpful in selecting varieties that will adapt to your climate, and to the sun, soil, and moisture in the spot where you want to plant them. In general, bulbs are either hardy or not; they will survive a deep winter freeze, or they must be lifted and stored before the ground freezes at all. ”

“ If the flower stem is removed from the bulb and the upper roots are not disturbed, it will continue to grow unchecked. Or, again, if the bulb be destroyed by disease, or its lower roots do not develop, the lily may still flower; but if the stem roots are destroyed, the shoot dies, even though the bulb and lower roots are quite perfect.
All the lilies possess bulbs. These bulbs are exceedingly characteristic, and differ greatly from those of any other plant. The bulbs of all lilies are imbricate—that is, consist of a number of scales united at their bases. ”

“ If at this time the plant be taken up, the old and new bulb will still be found to be united, but the new one will be observed to have increased little in size since autumn, being still hardly larger in diameter than the leaf stalk. The bulb thus grows little during the autumn, but in winter it increases rapidly in size ”

“ In a few years the bulbs are curiously produced, the original bulb near the surface striking a radical fibre downright from its base, at the extremity of which is produced a new bulb for the next year's plant, the old one perishing. ”

“ Most of the complaints show that there has been no effort made to study the nature of the plant. A little study would show that an immense bulb like 156Crinum ornatum must have a generous supply of roots to sustain it; that these roots must have time to grow, commensurate with the length of time the bulb has been out of the ground, and that not much could be expected of it until these conditions were fulfilled. ”

“ Plant these bulbs in the same way and with the same precautions as you do new bulbs; detach any small bulblets and plant these separately. Never let the bulbs remain out of the ground longer than can possibly be helped.
Lilies in pots must be repotted every year. As soon as the stem has died down, empty the pot, shake out the bulb, separate any offshoots that it may have made, and replant at once. ”

“ They may plant hyacinths, dwarf tulips, polyanthus-narcissus, or any other moderately-growing bulbous roots, either in water-glasses, or in pots of light dry earth, to flower early in their apartments. If in glasses, the bulb should be a little in the water; if in pots, a little in the earth, or but just covered. They should be kept in a warm light room.
“The trees generally lose their leaves in the following succession:—walnut, mulberry, horse-chesnut, sycamore, lime, ash, then, after an interval, elm, then beech and oak, then apple and peach-trees, sometimes not till the end of November ”

“ These thickened parts are stored with nutriment which is used during subsequent growth. Bulbs occur only in plants which are accustomed to a long period of inactivity. Many bulbous plants are peculiar to dry and arid regions, where growth is impossible during long periods. A bulb is, therefore, a more or less permanent and compact leaf-bud, usually occupying the base of the stem underground and emitting roots from its lower portion. ”

“ And this is the way nature plants bulbs.
In a similar manner young slender roots well anchored in the soil, at or near the close of the growing season, pull downward and outward large numbers of bulblets that form around a parent bulb of some kinds of leeks, tulips, star-of-bethlehem, globe hyacinth, and monkshood. The pull of the roots is much greater to one side than downward, because most of the longest roots extend sidewise. ”

“ There are a large number of species of Lilium, differing greatly in size and blossom, and it is therefore only natural to expect the bulbs to vary a good deal also. Indeed, there are very large and very small bulbs, comparatively speaking, and they display a good deal of difference in their vegetation, and in producing offsets. For example, most kinds develop new bulbs or offsets round the base of the older bulb, while others, like canadense, Grayi, pardalinum, Parryi, and superbum, develop their new bulbs along creeping stems or rhizomes as shown in the sketch on [Pg 95] page 31. ”

“ A wonderful sight presents itself on first entering the gardens, vistas of alleys with flowers of every variety, and kind, and colour, cut by borders and beds which contain each one kind of flower only. Hyacinths are in the greatest number. Early tulips, narcissi, anemones, and others are laid out in successive order. The effect is surprising. Never, when they are once selected and placed in position, does a grower ever touch his bulbs again, he dare not disturb them once they are planted, but if a bulb dies or refuses to grow they may possibly embed a flower in a pot in its place ”

“ Bulbels vary greatly in size and frequency in different species. Sometimes they are no larger than a grain of wheat, and in other plants they are as large as hickory-nuts. In some species they are borne habitually underneath the scales of the mother bulb. These bulbels are often removed when the mother bulbs are taken up, and they are usually planted in essentially the same manner as the bulbs themselves, although it is desirable to place them, at least for the first year, in a bed or border by themselves. ”

“ The roots, which are in such a hurry to show themselves when first the bulbs are planted, perish as quickly as they grow. They stop growing before the flower is in full bloom, and are always quite dried up before the seed begins to ripen. While the root is perishing the flower continues, the stem grows, and all the flowers expand completely. When the flower is quite over and the seed is left to ripen, the sap goes into the leaves, which lengthen considerably, then these die in their turn, till they separate from the bulb of themselves. ”

“ Bulbels are often produced by an injury to the bulb. Growth of stem and leaves is prevented or checked and the energy is directed to the formation of minute buds, or bulbs, in the same manner as adventitious buds form upon a wounded stem. Advantage is taken of this fact to multiply some bulbous plants, and in the case of the hyacinths, at least, the mutilation of bulbs for this purpose is practiced to a commercial extent. ”

“ One of the most delightful phases of bulb-growing is that of the cultivation of hardy species in the grass. Nowhere do they look so well as against the grass, whose leafage seems to harmonise so well with the general character of the bulbous plants. In addition to this, many of these bulbous plants will thrive much better in grass than in a cultivated border, where there is often too much bare soil, and where other flowers of encroaching nature can injure them. ”

“ They are the most easily raised of all the bulbous plants and increase in a manner quite alarming, each bulb forming a long tuber resembling a white radish in general appearance, and covered with small bulbs—probably fifty—the top being crowned with one large bulb, the source of the season’s florescence. ”

“ By Offsets.—This mode of increase applies specially to bulbous plants, such as the lily and hyacinth, which produce little bulbs on the exterior round their base. Most bulbs do so naturally to a limited but variable extent; when more rapid increase is wanted the heart is destroyed, and this induces the formation of a larger number of offsets. The stem bulbs of lilies are similar in character to the offsets from the parent bulb. The same mode of increase occurs in the gladiolus and crocus, but their bulb-like permanent parts are called corms, not bulbs. ”

“ Bulbils in leaf-axils.
The bulbils should not be detached from the stems until the latter are quite ripe, and the foliage shows signs of withering. They may be sown as if they were large seeds. They possess the advantage over seeds, however, inasmuch as they produce flowering bulbs two or three seasons before the bulbs from real seeds come to maturity.
Tulip Seedling. b. young bulb; r. first root; s. l. seed leaf; s. ”

“ For ordinary flower-pots a mixture of leaf-mould and sand is good, and while these are in the dark you must not water much, or the soil will get [204] sour and unhealthy. In planting bulbs for a room garden, do not set them deeply in the gravel or moss-fibre. The point of the bulb should just show above ground. This applies also to bulbs grown in ordinary pots. Whatever medium you use should be damp when you finish your planting. Your bulbs must then be put into a dark, cool place for four weeks to make their roots. An airy cellar is good, but many people use a cool cupboard. ”

“ In planting bulbs in newly prepared soil, great care must be taken that they do not [152] come in contact with manure. To prevent this, the man should have a box of sand, in a handful of which each bulb should be set. Spring-flowering bulbs should be planted about four inches deep.
Poeticus Narcissus and Daffodils, both single and double, do well when naturalized in grass that need not be cut until the foliage of the bulb has died in June. They also make a very good edging for a border along a walk. ”

“ Preferring partially shaded spots, they are particularly valuable for planting in woodland walks, and beneath our native trees in parks and pleasure grounds. The hardier kinds require practically no cultivation, and will flourish in any of the places indicated or in ordinary garden soil in the rock-garden or flower border. The best time to plant is about September and October, and as the bulbs are 1-1/2 to 2 inches in diameter, they should be buried about 3 or 4 inches deep, and in hundreds and thousands if possible instead of in twos and threes. ”

“ The lateral buds or cloves sometimes remain attached to the axis, and produce flowering stems, so that apparently the same bulb continues to flower for many years, as in the hyacinth and tulip; at other times the young bulbs are detached, and form separate plants. ”

“ The bulbs are about the cheapest of all winter bulbs and they grow without putting them away to make roots, as the tops do not seem as impatient to start as those of most other bulbs, but wait until there are roots to help them along. The flowers are borne on a slender stem and look very graceful, either on the plant or in bouquets. They are also very fragrant, and a pot with five or six [585] bulbs will perfume a large room. All they need is good light soil, sunlight, water, and warmth to make glad the heart of anyone who plants them.
Fig. ”

“ Before planting the large bulbs, it may be well to examine the points, to determine whether they are likely to bloom. The tuberose blooms but once. If there is a hard, woody piece of old stem in the midst of the dry scales at the apex of the bulb, it has bloomed, and is of no value except for producing pips. Likewise if, instead of a solid core, there is a brownish, dry cavity extending from the tip down into the middle of the bulb, the heart has rotted or dried up, and the bulb is worthless as far as blooming is concerned. ”

“ The scales of bulbs are often employed to multiply scarce varieties. From ten to thirty of the thicker scales may be removed from the outside of the bulb without serious injury to it. These are treated in the same manner as single eye cuttings. They are usually handled in flats or propagating-frames, and are pressed perpendicularly into a light and loose soil—half sharp sand and half leaf-mould—for nearly or quite their entire length, or are scattered in damp moss. Keep the soil simply moist, and for hardy and half-hardy species keep the temperature rather low—from 45° to 60°. ”

“ The bulbs should be firm and plump. The easiest to grow and the most satisfactory are hyacinths, tulips, narcissus and freesia. They can be grown in pots, but success will be more certain with small boxes four to six inches deep and any size up to the regular "flat" (about 13x22 inches) , according to the number you wish in bloom at one time. All the paraphernalia you will need is a supply of light, rich soil (one-third old rotted manure, two-thirds rotted turf-loam is good) a few fern or bulb pans, boxes, and your bulbs. ”

“ For the spotless purity of its flowers, and for incomparable fragrance, it has no superior. It is very easy to grow them successfully. Bulbs intended for fall blooming, should be planted in the open ground from the first to the middle of May; plant them about two inches deep. They will do well in any good, rich garden soil, if the soil is occasionally moved around them with the rake or hoe, after they are up and growing. Such treatment will cause the bulbs to grow rapidly, and the flower trusses, when they come into bloom, will consequently be much larger and finer. ”