Tidal wave

“ If the Straits were wide enough to admit the progress of the tidal wave there would be a rise and fall in the ports of the Mediterranean, but as they are not, only the tidal current rushes in and out twice every day. ”

“ And, seeing that we are writing more particularly for the young naturalists of our own island, we must devote a little space to the study of the movements of the tidal wave round Great Britain, in order that we may understand the great diversity in the time of high tide on any one day on different parts of the coast, and see how the time of high tide for one part may be calculated from that of any other locality. ”

“ That this wave ‘does work,’ no one can doubt who has watched its effects. The mere rise and fall in open ocean may not be strikingly indicative of ‘work done;’ but when we see the behaviour of the tidal wave in narrow channels, when we see heavily-laden ships swept steadily up our tidal rivers, we cannot but recognise the expenditure of force. Now, where does this force come from? Motion being the great ‘force-measurer,’ what motion suffers that the tides may work? We may securely reply, that the only motion which can supply the requisite force is the earth’s motion of rotation. ”

“ Progress of the Tide-wave over the Ocean and in the British Seas.—Sufficient tidal data would give the state of the tide at every part of the world at the same instant of time, and if the tide wave is a progressive one, like such wave as we may observe travelling along a canal, we should be able to picture mentally the motion of the tide-wave over the ocean and the successive changes in the height of water at any one place. ”

“ If the theory of the tides was to be the simple one so often described, then at every port noon should be the hour of high water on the day of the new moon or of the full moon, because then both tide-exciting bodies are on the meridian at the same time. Even if the friction retarded the great tidal wave uniformly, the high tide on the days of full or change should always occur at fixed hours ”

“ Were it not for the inertia of the ocean and the resistance offered by the irregular continents, high tide would always exist exactly under the moon, and we should have high water at any place just at the time when the moon is in the south and crossing the meridian of that place. But while the inertia of the water tends to make all tides late, the irregular distribution of the land breaks up the tidal wave into so many wave-crests and greatly retards their progress. ”

“ A tidal wave will traverse the open sea in a straight line, but as it passes along the coast the progress of the line nearest the shore is retarded while the centre part continues at the same velocity, so that on plan the wave assumes a convex shape and the branch waves reaching the shore form an acute angle with the coast line. ”

“ The semi-synchronous oscillation of the Southern Ocean raises the magnitude of oceanic tides somewhat above these directly generated values.
Oceanic tides are true waves, not currents. Coast tides are currents. The momentum of the water, when the tidal wave breaks upon a continent and rushes up channels, raises coast tides to a much greater height—in some places up to 50 or 60 feet, or even more. ”

“ The levels are, however, liable to be affected by winds. A wind blowing towards the shore raises the level of both high and low water; a wind blowing off shore lowers both levels. A severe storm in the North Sea has caused a double tide at London Docks, by accelerating the North Sea tidal wave. 191
In a funnel-shaped estuary, especially if it faces the direction of the tidal wave in the sea, the tide in going up the channel increases in velocity, and the momentum of the water causes it to rise higher and higher as the width decreases. ”

“ The tidal movement of the ocean, deep-sea currents, and the agitation of inland waters by the wind, lift up the sands strewn over the bottom by diluvial streams or sent down by mountain torrents, and throw them up on dry land, or deposit them in sheltered bays and nooks of the coast—for the flowing is stronger than the ebbing tide, the affluent than the refluent wave. ”

“ The subject of the tidal wave as experienced in England requires careful treatment, as many text-books leave the impression on the minds of children that the tidal wave in the North Sea travels from east to west, and that the shores of the Baltic are experiencing low tide when the eastern coast of England is having a high tide. ”

“ When it happens, however, it by no means follows that we have a very high tide; because it may occur when the tides are near ‘neap’; in other words, when the sun and moon exert opposing effects. The largest lunar wave cannot stand the drain which the solar wave exerts upon it at the time of neap tides. Nor would the large lunar tidal wave produce an exceptionally high tide, even though it were not the time of ‘neap,’ or were tolerably near the time of ‘spring’ tides. Only when it happens that a large lunar wave combines fully with the solar wave, do we get very high tides. ”

“ An assumption that the basic tidal movement in the open ocean consists of a system of stationary wave oscillations, any progressive wave movement being of secondary importance except as the tide advances into tributary waters. ”

“ When an estuary contracts considerably as it proceeds, as is the case with the Bristol Channel, then the range of the tide or the height of the tidal wave becomes greatly increased as it travels up the gradually narrowing channel, because the wave is squeezed into a smaller space. ”

“ It is strange that, while so much has been written and spoken about the possibility of turning the energy of the tides to account for power in the service of man, comparatively little attention has been paid to the problem of similarly utilising the wave-power, which goes to waste in such inconceivably huge quantities. Where the tidal force elevates and depresses the sea-water on a shore, through a vertical distance of say eight feet, about once in twelve hours, the waves of the ocean will perform the same work during moderate weather once in every twelve or fifteen seconds. ”

“ The front side of this great wave takes an almost vertical position, resembling an advancing wall of water, and works great havoc with boats and shipping which have had the misfortune to be left in its path. To understand more completely how a “bore” is formed, the reader must be reminded of the cause of all tidal phenomena. Any one who lives by the sea or an estuary knows well that the sea-level rises and falls twice every 24 hours, and that the average interval of time between high water and high water is nearly 121⁄2 hours. ”

“ This rise and fall of the waters along the coast, accompanied frequently by strong currents, are produced directly by the arrival in the shoal water of a pulsation of the ocean, which becomes a true onward-moving gravity wave as it nears the land. In the open sea the amplitude of the tidal undulations is but two or three feet, and their rate of travel in general 700 to 800 miles per hour. ”

“ But in the present condition of the globe, where the oceans are separated by continents and broken by islands, the progress of the tidal waves is obstructed, deflected, and wholly stopped in a great variety of ways and places, so that the hours, amount, and behavior of the tides are exceedingly varied in different regions, and are often very puzzling, forming one of the most difficult matters with which the practical navigator has to deal. ”

“ Again, when the tidal swelling is increased in height by the convergence of the shores between which it moves, it is no longer a mere oscillation or pulsation of the great ocean, but the water acquires a true motion of translation, and rushes past headlands and through narrow channels with tremendous force and speed—a phenomenon well known along the west coasts of Scotland and Scandinavia. In some cases the advancing tide on entering a narrow inlet or estuary gathers itself into one or more large waves, and rushes up between the converging shores. ”

“ If, however, the ball is hanging by a long string we can play at battledore and shuttlecock with it, and it always meets our blows. The latter is the analogue of the tides, for a free wave in our shallow canal Tides Inverted. goes slowly, whilst the moon's tide-generating action goes quickly. Hence when the system is left to settle into steady oscillation it is low-water under and opposite to the moon, whilst the forces are such as to tend to make high-water at those times. ”

“ Tide is the vertical rise and fall of the water, and tidal current is the horizontal flow. The tide rises and falls, the tidal current floods and ebbs. The navigator is concerned with the amount and time of the tide, as it affects access to shallow ports. The navigator is concerned with the time, speed, and direction of the tidal current, as it will affect his ship’s position, speed, and course. ”

“ The tides of the sea—as the two great flowings and ebbings of the water every twenty-four hours are called—are caused principally by the attractive influence of the moon, which, to a small extent, lifts the waters of the ocean towards it, as it passes over them, and thus causes a high wave. This wave, or current, when it swells up on the land, forms high tide. When the moon’s influence has completely passed away, it is low tide. ”

“ The tidal information becomes important and must be considered in navigation or in anchoring in waters where the available depth at low water approximates the draft of the vessel. In the general use of coast charts it is also important to observe the effect of the stage of tide on the appearance of many features. Rocks rising some feet above low water may be entirely submerged at high water. In some areas the aspect may be radically changed between high and low water by the baring of extensive shoals or reefs. ”

“ First, as to time: as the vessels in a harbour, and in the open sea without it, may be seen swinging with the tide at the same moment in opposite directions; the ebb has begun in the roadstead, while it is not yet high water in the harbour; so one or more nations may be in advance of or behind the general tendency of their age, and from either cause may be moving in the opposite direction. Again, the tendency or movement in itself is liable to frequent interruptions, and short counter-movements: even when the tide is coming in upon the shore, every wave retires after its advance ”

“ In considering the effect of the natural forces still in operation during the many thousands of years during which they have been at work, it is necessary to bear in mind that the level of the sea has all along remained the same, except so far as it is varied by the rise and fall of the tide, and by the exceptional exaggerations of tidal movement caused by the wind. ”

“ They are very complex, and consist of westward waves and eastward waves of very various periods. He finds, as was to be expected, that if for an ocean of given depth, a free wave very nearly coincides in period with the forced lunar or solar wave, the actual tide is largely augmented. Thus, for example, for an ocean of 29,000 ft. in depth the solar semi-diurnal tide would have a height at the equator 235 times as great as the equilibrium height, and would be inverted so that low water would agree with the high water of the equilibrium theory. ”

“ In such cases, however, where the rivers flow into tidal seas, it is important to place the jetties sufficiently apart to avoid any loss of tidal influx, since the tidal flow assists the fresh-water discharge in keeping the outlet open; whereas, with rivers flowing into tideless seas, a moderate restriction of the width between the jetties increases the scour. ”

“ Though we have not yet put the tides into harness, yet tides are not idle. Work they will do, whether useful or not. In some places the tidal currents are scouring out river-channels; in others they are moving sand-banks. From a scientific point of view the work done by the tides is of unspeakable importance. To realize the importance, let us ask the question, Whence is this energy derived with which the tides do their work? The answer seems a very obvious one. If the tides are caused by the moon, the energy they possess must also be derived from the moon. ”

“ The result will be that the particles will travel a little farther out from the shore each time it is swung to and fro in the alternating movement of the tide.
The effect of tidal movement in nurturing marine life is very great. It aids the animals fixed on the bottoms of the deep seas to obtain their provision of food and their share of oxygen by drawing the water by their bodies. All regions which are visited by strong tides commonly have in the shallows near the shores a thick growth of seaweed which furnishes an ample provision of food for the fishes and other forms of animal life. ”

“ At low tide for miles out one sees only a vast plain, moist, strewn with shells, and intersected here and there with deep hollows and shifting sandbanks; but when the tide changes, and long before the waters appear in sight, are heard tremendous sounds, crash after crash, thunder after thunder, of the advancing tide, which comes in leaping like a huge monster, thirty to forty feet high, and breaks with terrific violence against the shore, carrying everything before it. ”

“ We may conceive the moon's tide-generating force as making a wave in the canal and continually outstripping the wave it generates, for the moon travels along the equator at the rate of about 1000 miles an hour, and the sea is less than 13 miles deep. The resultant oscillation of the ocean must therefore be the summation of a series of partial waves generated at each instant by the moon and always falling behind her, and the aggregate wave, being the same at each instant, must travel 1000 m. ”