Ann S. Stephens

“ The transition from one needle to more, and the weaving of thread into forms of beauty, was a progress natural to the spirit of invention, and the facilities for thought which the first step in any art creates.
Probably the first progress which Knitting made toward a distinct art, was when yarn stockings were invented in Flanders. The stitch, as every New England housewife knows, is simple enough. But inventive genius has so adorned and varied it, that stockings are easily enriched with lace-work, and lace itself is abundantly manufactured by a little thread and a pair of knitting needles. ”

“ In short, we persist in it, that a feminine character cannot be quite perfect without a knowledge of all sorts of needlework, and a down-right hearty love of it, too. For our part, we have buried many a heart-ache in the growing leaves of a silken rose, and blunted the sharp edge of pangs that would not be wrestled with by the sweet, calm monotony of a shining bit of steel. ”

“ It is only in well regulated households that leisure moments are thus gathered up. It is only minds composed and serene in their joy, or submissive in sorrow, that can constrain themselves to the gentle monotony of work like this.
With a crotchet-needle in the hand, we join more pleasantly in conversation; the little implement fills up all embarrassing pauses: its use gives a feminine and domestic air, which men may smile at, but cannot condemn ”

“ Knitting, crochet work, and the manufactory of lace are so connected and interwoven together that the history of one would be incomplete without the other. We therefore go on from our familiar and pleasant talk about needlework as an accomplishment and give its history as a matter of trade. In this point of view, lace making is the most important, and indeed so connected with the rest that we give concise history of its rise and progress in the world. ”

“ Our friend is only singular in the homeliness of her taste in knitting useful stockings, instead of pretty ornaments. The ladies of almost every country we have ever seen appear most natural and charming when employed in some graceful task of needlework or knitting.
But a love of it is increasing, and still increasing. Let gentlemen deride these pretty occupations if they please; we know how much of a soothing influence lies in the dreamy habit of counting stitches, and how many bright faculties are pleasantly exercised in arranging and matching colors. ”

“ We meet with most frequent allusion to Venice, that great bazaar of the luxuries of the middle ages as the chief seat of the point lace manufacture in early times. As this city certainly monopolised the most skilful artisans in every branch of ornamental handicraft, and was the great emporium whence everything beautiful and costly was spread over the world, it is by no means extraordinary that the establishment of lacemaking in other countries should be generally referred back to some wandering band from the city of the winged lion. ”

“ The embroidered sheath and chased silver needle-case have disappeared even from the cherry-wood workstands of New England, and a thousand beautiful designs for chairs, cushions, toilets and wearing apparel, supply the 9place of the old-fashioned stocking basket with its well mended contents. In England and Ireland, where the ladies are always industrious, Crochet work has arisen to the dignity of an art. It is introduced into the national schools, and hundreds of poor are supported by the rich laces and pretty collars produced there. ”

“ There is a careless fashion among gentlemen, of speaking lightly regarding those graceful exhibitions of female industry, which pass under the head of Fancy Work. Yet, to our mind, there is no amusement more innocent and graceful. One of the most distinguished literary ladies of this country once told us that she cultivated a love of her old-fashioned knitting, because it gave employment for her hands, which were so used to motion, that she really felt uncomfortable when they were unemployed. ”

“ The time which any lady gives to ornamental needlework is usually made up of those leisure moments which would be lounged away on a sofa, or in a rocking-chair; and it is wonderful how many pretty objects start into existence, that, but for this taste, would be dreamed away into nothingness. ”

“ Masculine women of hard and coarse grained natures, are seldom given to these pleasant household employments. We never hear that Elizabeth amused herself with the needle, she was too busy with her pen signing death warrants, or with her 10tongue scolding her council, for any thoughts of the graceful art which brightened the prison she gave to her beautiful rival. Indeed, fancy work in all its branches is always subservient to the household spirit which attends every true woman. ”

“ Without a gift for needlework, what should we ladies do for appropriate mementos for our brothers, husbands, and friends, at Christmas time, and when birthdays come round, sounding their yearly remembrances upon our heartstrings? What should we do for wedding cushions, and christening robes, when our favorite cousins insist upon becoming heads of families, and useful members of society? ”

“ Berlin work is the general term for what might perhaps be more properly termed embroidery on canvas; a material with which, doubtless, most of my readers are well acquainted, although they may not be familiar with the names of the different kinds and sizes.
The French Canvas, (sometimes called Patent) is the one which I prefer for all ordinary purposes. The open squares are very exact, and the threads and selvage usually firm and strong. It is the only kind that is suitable for large pieces, or for wreaths, or any thing else, in fact, in which squareness and strength are essential. ”

“ In this country, Crochet work can only be denominated an accomplishment, but we must consider it not merely as an elegant way of whiling away time, but as one of those gentle means by which women are kept feminine and lady-like in this fast age. ”

“ Every day develops new improvements and contributes some novel pattern to the world, which promises to render this class of lace making more popular than even the English point, has been, especially on this side the Atlantic. At the Crystal Palace this year, some specimens of Crochet collars, sleeves, and even entire dresses, were exhibited that had all the rich effect of old point lace. Flowers, even raised in petals from the ground work, have been invented, and the most intricate patterns are given with a boldness of effect only to be found in the ancient lace we have mentioned. ”

“ To see young ladies stooping, with rounded shoulders and contracted chest, over a simple piece of knitting, no one would imagine that they were exercising an art in which the blind are the greatest adepts. The fact is, that the blind exercise their sense of touch as well as their memory, until the most elaborate pattern is produced in a manner perfectly mechanical ”

“ We advocate it simply as an amusement, like all recreation, to be indulged in only when the more serious duties of life are disposed of. But it has advantages not always recognized. Many a fine eye for colors has been cultivated 12into artistic perfection, by the nice discrimination necessary to assort the tints of a worsted rose. Grouping may be learned from a close study of patterns, and a thousand charming associations may be woven in with the forget-me-not or heart’s-ease, which we have wrought tremblingly into the canvass, which a beloved eye was gazing upon. ”

“ English, or Embroidery wool, is a much stronger substance than Berlin; the dark shades are excellent for the ground of large pieces, but the lighter tints are not equal to those in the Berlin wool.
The chenille used for embroidery is called chenille a broder, to distinguish it from the chenille ordinaire, which is much coarser. The effect of flowers, birds and butterflies, worked in chenille, is rich and beautiful in the extreme, but the pile so easily attracts dust, and is so liable to injury, that it should be used only for articles which will be defended by glass. ”

“ Twist the needle twice round the silk, insert it in the same spot you drew it through before, and, with the right hand, draw the needle to the under side, gradually tightening the silk with the left hand. When quite drawn through the knot is formed. The great art in this work is to make the stitches all lie perfectly even. We seldom use the French Knot for anything 73but the seeds, stamen, or pistils of flowers; but the Chinese execute whole pieces in this stitch, shading them most exquisitely, and only using a coarse white silk or gold thread as an outline to the whole. ”

“ It seems wonderful that so perfect a result could have been attained by following the impulse of the moment; but still more difficult to believe that any design could have been invented so strange and capricious in character. ”

“ It is singular that, in later years, the secrets connected with the manufacture of old point lace have been lost to us; and that, although ingenious imitations are by no means rare, the authentic method of making it is quite unknown. The substratum used, or ‘foundation,’ as it is called, would appear to have been fine linen, though scarcely a thread is visible to the eye, from the heavy embroidery upon it, which here and there stands out in complete relief. The pattern consisted of small sections of fantastic and varying outlines ”

“ The delightful art of netting produces not only objects of beauty but of comfort so indispensable in our severe winters, that the fair hand employed in netting may be deemed useful as our grandmothers’ 13were when they seamed enormous quantities of yarn away in winter socks and stockings. In our cold seasons, when parties most prevail, sleeves, cuffs, rigolettes, and over-shoes of delicate Berlin wool, have saved many a fair form from colds and their consequent diseases, which, without such care, prove so fatal when heated rooms are exchanged for the biting cold of a winter’s night. ”

“ The surface of canvas is covered by being worked with various substances, of which silks, wools, chenille, and beads, may be considered the principal. Beads are now very much used, intermingled with silks and wools. For grounding large articles a new and very beautiful kind of wool has lately been introduced, termed filoselle. It works in admirably, and imparts a very rich effect to a design. It is about the size of Berlin wool which is fresh and good. For finer articles floss silk is common, and chenille may be worked on silk canvas with excellent effect. ”

“ An outline design in arabesque, or anything else that may appear suitable for two colors, should be drawn on paper of the proper dimensions and then marked on the canvass. The gold braid must be cut into pieces of the proper lengths, and laid on piece by piece, the spaces between the pattern being filled with wool of some well-contrasting color—as bright blue, green, or claret—so that the pattern appears in gold on a ground of wool. When leaves are so worked, a rich silk, of a deeper gold colour than the braid, should be used afterwards to vein it. ”

“ Taking a hint from the flowers, God’s own handwriting of love upon the bosom of the earth, she began to symbol the deep feelings of her nature in imperfect imitations, and this was the first step made by woman in the progress of mind. ”

“ In commencing our instructions in Crochet Work in all its variations, we supply what certainly is a great want in the American Household, where some sort of fancy work is essential to the completion of those domestic circles which render an American home so cheerful. ”

“ During the dark ages Needlework was considered an aristocratic, nay, almost a regal accomplishment, and queens vied with each other in the gentle art as ardently as their husbands struggled in the battle-field. ”

“ To work THROUGH a stitch, is to draw the thread under instead of in it. This is stronger than the usual method, but not so neat; it is, therefore, rarely used for anything but very open work.
Square Crochet is that which is made entirely in small squares, those which form the pattern being closely filled in, and the ground open. Open squares are formed thus: 1 dc. 2 ch., miss 2, repeated. Close squares contain three dc. stitches, thus: 1 c. 1 o., would have 4 dc. 2 ch. Every pattern in square crochet requires a foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by three and leave one over ”

“ Berlin work is often done on canvas, with cloth, satin or velvet underneath it: this saves the labor of grounding, as the pattern being worked, the superfluous canvas is cut away, and the embroidery appears on the solid material. Some people draw out the threads of the canvas: this is not only very troublesome, but it also spoils the effect of the work. Small intermediate spaces of canvas, not covered with embroidery, are usually grounded with wool exactly the color of the cloth. ”

“ It injures the work to use too fine a needle, as the small eye frays the silk; on the other hand a needle that is too large makes holes in the cloth.
The materials chiefly used for embroidery are wools, chenille, and silks: there are great varieties of the last-mentioned article, the principal being Mitorse, Dacca, Berlin, fine and coarse flax, crochet, and netting silks. Of the netting silks there are many sizes, which may be used according to the delicacy of the work. ”

“ German Canvas differs from the French in having every tenth thread a different color, and not being so true a square in the mesh.
39It is altogether inferior to the French (or patent) ; and, (amongst other disadvantages,) has that of showing the colored thread through any light wool. Still, as it obviates, in some degree, the trouble of counting, many people like to work on it.
Silk Canvas is a very expensive article; but it saves much labor, as designs worked on it do not require to be grounded. I should never advise any but white silk canvas being used, as the colored ones do not wear well. ”