George Matthews Bennett

“ One does not behold the graceful waving of the cocoa palm, the broad and vivid green foliage of the plantain, nor the beautiful luxuriance of a tropical vegetation, which delight the vision of the wearied voyager on a first approach to a tropical region, where the soil teems with cultivation, or a profuse natural vegetation extending from the loftiest mountains even to the ocean’s brink. ”

“ As we advanced on our journey, by the continued gradual ascent, the cold increased; even the shrubs had a stunted and miserable appearance, which gave a desolate aspect to the country about us, indicating a great difference of climate in this spot in comparison with the lower part of the range from whence we had departed only a few hours before. The sunset brought a still keener air, and with joy we hailed the bridge and habitations of a station called the “Weather-boarded Hut,” our place of rest for the night, and a termination to our journey of thirty-six miles this day. ”

“ This island, low at one part, is high and mountainous at another. It was late in the afternoon before we had a clear view of its lofty peaked mountain. The island was densely wooded, having a picturesque and verdant appearance. During the morning, which was showery, we slowly coasted along the island, at about four or five miles distant. As the weather cleared up about noon, the scenery gratified the eye with its varied tints, refreshed by the genial showers, and recalled to my memory those gems of the ocean distributed over the Polynesian Archipelago. ”

“ How delightful it is in this country, so destitute of large streams, to sit under the overshadowing branches of the Eucalypti, near the river, watching the flights of wild fowl, engaged in catching the fish, with which this river abounds, or seeing the young amphibious blacks amusing themselves by throwing stones into the deep part of the stream, and diving in order to catch them before they reach the bottom. ”

“ The plains were animated by herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and troops of horses, grazing, reposing, or exercising: the whole combination of this beautiful scenery excited the most pleasing sensations, which were heightened by its English character, and cause the settler to reflect less on the remoteness from home; when surrounded [185] by his family circle, and a few select friends—language, manners, customs, being all in accordance with his own “native land:” his farm once under cultivation, and stocked, he feels but few, if any wants. ”

“ On making a circuit around the town of Sydney, the metropolis of the Australian colony, the extent of ground it occupies, the number of buildings completed, as well as those erecting for the increased and still increasing population, the variety and neatness of the shops, excite the surprise of a stranger, and still more of a person who revisits the town after a brief absence, at the rapid improvements that have taken place in this distant colony in so short a period of time. The humble wooden dwellings are fast giving place to neat houses and cottages constructed of brick or sandstone ”

“ I have frequently observed at Singapore, that, although the tranquil water exhibits no particular luminosity, yet when disturbed by the passage of a [39] boat, it gives out phosphoric matter, leaving a brilliant line in the boat’s wake, and the blades of the oars when raised from the water seem to be dripping with liquid phosphorus.
Even between the tropics, the phosphoric light is increased or diminished in its degree of brilliancy, in a very slight difference of latitude; on one day it would be seen to a most magnificent extent, on the next it would be perhaps merely a few luminous flashes. ”

“ If the aborigines wanted to pass a river, I observed them strip off sheets of bark with great expedition, upon which they crossed, paddling themselves with a piece of wood, sometimes placing piles of mud at each end of the rude bark to prevent the ingress of the water, if there was any thing in it they wished to keep dry: having all the services they require out of the rudely constructed vessels, they desert and leave them either to be carried down the stream or rot on the banks, being aware that another canoe of the same rude construction is always ready when it may be required. ”

“ The fish make a rustling noise, very audible when they are near the ship, dart forward, or sometimes take a curve to bring themselves before the wind, and when fatigued fall suddenly into the water. It is not uncommon to see them, when pursued, drop exhausted, rise again almost instantly, proceed a little further, again dipping into the ocean, so continuing for some distance until they are out of sight, so that we remain in ignorance whether they have been captured or have eluded pursuit. ”

“ There are various objects well calculated to excite interest to a naturalist during a long voyage, and to furnish both amusement and instruction. The splendid Physalia, or “Portuguese man of war,” [3] is often seen floating by the ship; the inflated, or bladder portion of this molluscous animal, glowing in delicate crimson tints, floats upon the waves, whilst the long tentaculæ of a deep purple colour extend beneath, as snares to capture its prey. It is oftentimes amusing to see persons eager to secure the gaudy prize ”

“ The flats or plains near the stations are seen animated by immense droves of cattle, revelling in all the luxury furnished by a rich herbage. This part of the colony may be correctly termed a land flowing with milk, and even, we may say occasionally, with honey, as the latter is sometimes procured by the native blacks from the hollow trunk of a tree; by watching the direction in which the bees fly when proceeding homeward, and following them, they thus discover [261] and rob the industrious insects of the “sweets of their life.” ”

“ The aborigines have a custom of preserving human fat. I observed it among the Yas, Murrumbidgee, and other tribes. They show it with reluctance to Europeans. I could not ascertain the motive with certainty. Some said it was as a charm—others that it was used in the cure of diseases: that it is applied to the latter purpose I believe, from having seen it smeared over or near the place at which a patient complained of pain, or had received injury. The fat is not taken from particular individuals, that from any human body being considered equally efficacious. ”

“ The numerous lagoons and flats, swamps or marshes, (for by all these names they seem equally known,) had a fresh green appearance, occasioned by the young reeds springing up, which are greedily devoured by cattle and horses, as in that stage of growth they are sweet, and contain abundance of mucilage; as they advance in growth, the verdure they possessed is succeeded by arid brown stems, surmounted by feathered blossoms, which wave and bend with a rustling noise to the breeze that sweeps by them. ”

“ It is pleasing to observe this superb bird sailing in the air in graceful and elegant movements, seemingly excited by some invisible power, for there is rarely any movement of the wings seen, after the first and frequent impulses given, when the creature elevates itself in the air; rising and falling as if some concealed power guided its various motions, without any muscular exertion of its own ”

“ We were, on these occasions, visited by canoes, with fowls, eggs, turtle, &c. The outline of this island is at some parts low, wooded, and uninteresting; whilst at others, lofty mountains rise one above the other, until the towering “Mount Karang” terminates the view. The varied tints of the vegetation, covering the mountains from the margin of the sea to the loftiest summits the eye could attain, had a [351] rich and beautiful appearance, as the setting sun cast its rays over the landscape. Occasionally the thatched Javanese habitations became visible, peeping from beneath a canopy of wood. ”

“ Besides the sight of flying fish, sharks, dolphins, and other deep-water fish; cape petrels, albatrosses, and other oceanic birds, serve to banish the sameness of a sea voyage, and that ennui which lays its benumbing hand upon those who have but few resources in themselves, and looking for it in objects around, too often feel disappointed. It is usually about the 29° of latitude, and 26° of west longitude, that the gigantic [44] species of albatross is usually first seen, as well as the smaller but not less elegant species of the same bird. ”

“ Indeed, many persons when alone are afraid to face a large “old man” kangaroo. A man recently arrived in the colony, was sent after cattle; he returned in great terror, having, it appears, come suddenly on the ranges upon a kangaroo, as “large,” he said, “as a horse.” I asked him the colour of the animal; he replied that he did not recollect it; he only wished to get away from the beast, and running down the hill, was glad when he saw the animal warn’t following him; it is probable when he went down one part of the range, the animal, equally, if not more frightened, descended another. ”

“ On the 8th of November I left Sydney for Yas Plains on a second visit to that interesting part of the colony; again passed over the “Razor-back Mountain,” upon which road gangs were busily employed in finishing that line of road,—and arrived in the afternoon at “Abbotsford,” a very pretty farm belonging to Mr. Harper, near “Stonequarry Creek:” it was in excellent order; a large quantity of land was cultivated with grain, having every prospect of a productive harvest, the whole being in full ear, and verging towards maturity. ”

“ In company with my friend, Lieutenant Breton, R. N., I visited Elizabeth Bay, about two miles distant from Sydney, and the property of the Honourable Alexander Macleay. The situation is beautiful, being in a retired bay or cove of Port Jackson, and the garden and farm is near the sea. This spot, naturally of the most sterile description, has been rendered, at a great expense and perseverance, in some degree productive as a nursery for rare trees, shrubs, and plants, from all parts of the world. ”

“ Sickness is also rarer among the servants, from an inability to become inebriated; but tobacco is quite a necessary of life among them; few can undergo any labour without it, and many have told me that they would rather give up their rations than be deprived of tobacco; consequently no gift is more acceptable in the bush to a servant, for any assistance he may render to the traveller, than a present of tobacco, for money in the distant parts of the colony, is comparatively useless, and they care little or nothing about it. ”

“ About this place there was a great variety of flowering shrubs, among which the Dianella cærulea, and a variety or species with white flowers, were abundant; but the season (particularly on this bleak range) was not yet sufficiently advanced for Flora to distribute all her beauties, without the bright sun to enliven them. The rapidly advancing summer will, however, soon strew the earth with a thicker carpeting of floral beauties, which the earlier spring about Sydney had already brought forth in such an infinite profusion. It is difficult to eradicate from our minds early impressions ”

“ There is sometimes much difficulty experienced, when travelling through the wild Australian country, in finding the habitation to which the traveller may be proceeding; for, until he may be close upon it, or a patch of cultivation peeping through a small opening in the dense forest directs him to the farm, as the cultivated land is usually near the house, or, at all events, no great distance from it, he may wander very far from his destined resting place even after having been close to it without its being visible. The remainder of the estate is used as “runs” for sheep or cattle ”

“ The warm valley in which the farm is situated, as well as its being near the river, must make it an agreeable retreat to the reptiles. We, however, slept through the night without experiencing any visits from them, although we often expected to feel their cold bodies gliding over and awakening us, from pleasant dreams to disagreeable realities. ”

“ Hills rose above hills, having, in part, a cleared appearance; but, in general, vegetation was most abundant. Lofty mountains formed the distant prospect; above the whole of which, the “Golden Mountain” reared its peaked summit, terminating the rich and varied landscape in an extremely beautiful manner.
From the few houses and canoes seen about this part of the coast, there seems to be a paucity of inhabitants, and no cultivation of the land was visible. The natives, however, may live in the fertile valleys, a short distance from the sea-coast, and concealed from our view. ”