Marie Robinson Wright

“ Every subject of the Inca looked toward Cuzco with pride and reverence, glorying in its palaces and temples and bringing tribute to its sovereigns from the remotest provinces, in adoration of the royal grandeur and power. Gold, silver, precious stones, and fine textiles were constantly added to the storehouse of treasure which the sacred city guarded as the divine right of its princes. No wealth was ever permitted to leave its precincts. It is no wonder that the Spaniards were amazed at the magnificence of its temples and the abundance of its treasure. ”

“ The University of San Marcos is to-day a thoroughly modern institution, representative of the liberal spirit of progress which pervades all classes in Peru,—a country that has passed through greater and more vital changes than fall to the lot of most nations. What transformations have been wrought in education in Peru since the amauttas imparted knowledge to the sons of the Sun, holding its precious truths too sacred to be communicated to any but noble princes! ”

“ The national constitution, on which is based the present political organization of Peru, stands a lasting monument to the patriotism and genius of the statesmen in whose hands was placed the responsibility of framing it, and does credit to the democratic principles of the nation whose sovereign will is manifested in its laws and provisions. For nearly half a century, the government of Peru has been building its strength on this solid foundation of broad purpose and practical ideals, and to-day the aspirations of its rulers are being realized with ever-increasing success. ”

“ As the Argentine statesman Alberdi wrote, more than half a century ago: “To populate is to civilize. Bring immigrants to make of them good Argentinos.—Bring colonists, not to be exploited by the capitalist class, but that they may here set up their domestic hearth, and live among us as one of ourselves. The laws should amply favor these new brethren of ours who come to earn their living by the sweat of their brows, and they should have ample liberty, if they wish to fix their permanent residence in the country and to contribute to the development of the nation.” ”

“ The Independence of Peru was the crowning glory of the Spanish-American revolution. Here, in the heart and centre of colonial monarchism, where the very existence of society seemed to be threatened in the event of a change of government, and the vigilance of the authorities was so active that a single word in favor of liberty, spoken in an unguarded moment, was sufficient to place its author under the fatal ban of the Holy Office, the patriotic spirit had, nevertheless, grown and developed, awaiting only a fair chance to dominate an overpowering environment. ”

“ The Conquest brought under the dominion of the viceroyalty a people of such ancient culture that no period could be fixed as to its genesis, and of an origin so enveloped in mystery that no certain knowledge existed regarding its derivation,—a people who had lived for centuries under absolute despotism and yet had developed a gentle obedience and submission such as could only exist where the tasks were performed by willing servants of a beloved master. ”

“ Between the city and the sea extend the crumbling walls of Chan-Chan and the Huacas of Moche, while northward, after a railway journey of less than an hour, the traveller enters the blooming gardens and green-mantled fields of a country overflowing with the bounties of a perennial harvest. Chan-Chan covers a desert tract about fifty square miles in circumference less than a league north of the capital, and just beyond the little Indian village of Mansiche, on the road to the seaport Huanchaco. ”

“ He died at the age of eighty years, and left the throne to Tupac-Yupanqui, the tenth emperor of Cuzco, who made the conquest of Chile as far south as the Maule River, and spent three years visiting his kingdom. The royal progress was of the most magnificent description; the litter of the great monarch was resplendant with gold and precious jewels, displaying in its adornment the sacred symbols of sun worship, as it was borne on the shoulders of the Inca’s proudest nobles. ”

“ The change from old to new conditions in Peru is a transition in which the Indian has had little share; not because he is prevented, but because of his disinclination to learn new ways and his lack of capacity to receive and apply modern knowledge. It is impossible to say what may be accomplished for future generations, but, judging from past history, centuries are required to accustom the indigenes to any radical change, and they seem utterly bewildered in the face of the rapid march of the present-day civilization. ”

“ Travelling in Peru was more like visiting among friends than studying the manners and customs of a foreign people, and the uniform kindness and hospitality everywhere shown me made my experience in this beautiful land one of constant pleasure and of enduring memory. ”

“ In Peru, as in Spain, the army and the Church were the only occupations worthy of the nobility; in both countries, wars of conquest were fought in the name of religion, with the emblem of salvation in one hand and that of destruction in the other,—the Inca with the golden disk and the catapult, the Spaniard with the Cross and the sword; and both led their armies against the infidel with the determination to destroy his idols and to establish the true worship.
However much we may condemn the method of the Spanish conquerors, their mission was not altogether mercenary in its purpose. ”

“ There is much to enjoy also in the busy scene of the harbor; vessels of all nations are loading and discharging their cargoes, tugs bustle about, and, while the pompous whistle of modern steamers announces their arrival, the graceful sailing ship glides silently into port, maintaining with dignity the credit of the good old days, in the face of these rival parvenus of twentieth century transportation. ”

“ Under the influence of a common religion, a common language, and a common government the consolidation of the great Inca empire was effected, and it must be conceded that the benevolent character of the despotism which its sovereigns exercised was the saving feature of a system which must seem, to the freedom-loving spirit of the twentieth century, the worst species of barbarism. Yet for a primitive people, who shall say that the government of Cuzco did not accomplish more toward civilizing them than a less autocratic but more oppressive system would have done? ”

“ The old Peru is passing,—the dominant traits of the nation are changing,—new life is apparent in its ideals, its institutions, in the spirit that rules society and politics, in everything that shows the influence of a broader outlook, a greater range of endeavor, a loftier aspiration. The traditions of caste and the contempt for utilitarian ideals which constituted a part of the creed of the colonial aristocracy have given place to an appreciation of true worth wherever found ”

“ Narciso Arestegui, the novelist; as well as the military leaders, General Gamarra, La Puerta, and many others who were proud to claim the old Inca capital as their native city.
In the new era of progress on which Peru has entered with so much promise, the ancient Cuzco, that was held in reverence as the “centre of the universe” ages before America was discovered by the European, will hold its own among its more modern sister cities. The treasure of its ancient ruins but adds interest to a city that knows how to keep in line with the march of modern civilization. ”

“ Such a discipline is hardly likely to develop the softer virtues; and, as the young Pizarro received no care,—either from his father, who was a distinguished colonel under El Gran Capitan, or from his mother, a humble peasant,—as he was never taught to read or to write, and spent his boyhood tending swine, it is not difficult to imagine what extraordinary influences must have moulded his character, and transformed the swineherd of Trujillo into the fearless soldier of fortune, known to history as the cruel, rapacious, and perfidious, though consummately daring, Conqueror of Peru. ”

“ No country has such a wealth of romance to kindle the imagination and to inspire the poet, and no country has greater reason to be proud of its annals, and the patriotic sentiment which finds expression in the literature and art of the country is altogether admirable. The Athenæum of Lima, the Geographic Society, and the Historical Institute, all intellectual organizations, were created for the purpose of promoting the study of Peru, from a literary, geographical, and historical standpoint, and their libraries contain many valuable works by Peruvian as well as foreign writers. ”

“ Gold and silver seem to have run in streams of never-failing abundance from the sierras of this wonderful country, their wealth gleaming in temples dedicated to the worship of the Sun in pre-Columbian days and forming a pavement for the footsteps of viceregal princes in the no less flourishing period of colonial Spain. ”

“ After crossing Verrugas bridge, the train disappears for a moment in the tunnel of Cuesta Blanca, emerging in the midst of the grandest scenery imaginable as it pushes on through Surco and across the Challapa bridge to Matucana, where a welcome half-hour’s stop is made. Matucana is, like Chosica, a favorite health resort, and the pines and eucalyptus trees of the neighborhood give added healthfulness to its pure mountain air. ”

“ A romantic charm envelopes the fame of the Incas and their brilliant court, their spectacular religion with its temples prodigally ornamented with gold and silver, and, above all, their own royal personality, so impressive in the dignity and sanctity of heaven-born greatness. ”

“ From Lima southward, the coast valleys resemble those of Southern California, though no idea of their beauty and fertility is to be gained from a view of the coast line, which here stretches along in the same monotonous series of sandhills and barren cliffs that mark its length all the way from Guayaquil to Valparaiso, with only a few green spots, as at Callao and Arica, to brighten its sombre aspect. ”

“ It was fitting that the capital of the Inca empire which had been subjugated by Spain three hundred years before, should be the first city to receive the patriots who had won its independence, and that the children of the new Peru should link their destiny with the descendants of its oldest civilization on this historic ground, both of them proud to claim the title of Peruvians. ”

“ The foreigner is at once impressed by the refinement and grace which distinguish the people in their home life, and which are evidences of the long inheritance of a cultured race. Travellers have extolled the people of Lima for their intelligence, imagination, and charming hospitality; the Arequipeños are eulogized by Flammarion, who says: “Arequipa is the most agreeable place of abode in South America, not only for the suavity of its climate but also because of the hospitable customs of its people.” ”

“ El Comercio, which has been a faithful chronicler of the political and social events of the country for nearly three-quarters of a century, still stands at the head as a representative of Peruvian journalistic ethics and enterprise. The same policy which made the paper the exponent of liberty half a century ago,—when it fought a noble campaign in favor of the abolition of slavery, first of the negroes and later of the Indians,—makes it to-day the leader in promoting the highest principles of humanity, advocating the most necessary reforms, and encouraging the best citizenship. ”

“ The popular route from the Pacific Coast to the forests of Loreto is by the Ucayali River to its confluence with the Marañon, and thence along the great waterway down to Iquitos; though a very interesting journey may be made by the northern route, through Cajamarca, Chachapoyas and Moyobamba to the port of Yurimaguas on the Huallaga River. Along both routes the luxuriance of the Montaña is seen in all its glory; the forest is aglow with the brilliant hues of a thousand birds and butterflies ”

“ In this courageous campaign, initiated by patriots representing every social class—an Indian, mestizos, and a criollo priest—the noble mission had levelled all ranks; the spirit of democracy had triumphed over caste; the proudest families of Peru mourned the loss of their sons, sacrificed for the cause of their country. ”

“ In return, the emperor asked: “Is there anyone in the empire who could oblige me to make a long journey? Is there anyone who would dare to disobey me if I ordered him to journey to Chile?” “No,” was the answer of the priest; “No one would dare to give orders to his sovereign, nor to disobey him.” “Then I tell you,” replied the Inca, “that our father, the Sun, has a ruler greater and more powerful than himself; for the sun never rests on the journey which he makes every day, and the supreme lord no doubt does things leisurely and halts when it pleases him, even though he has no need of repose.” ”