Various

“ Although composed of the hardest rock, they yet resemble in their contours, the low relief of a limestone area. Broad, even surfaces, on which rocky outcrops are few and over which a deep loam prevails, suggest rather that one is wandering over a plain than on a great mountain; yet you may sweep the entire horizon and find few higher peaks. The view is often very beautiful, it is far-reaching, not grand. No crags tower skyward, but many domes rise nearly to the same heights, and dome-like, their slopes are steepest toward the base. ”

“ The streams that flow down the eastern slope of the Silico hills are, from their sources to the lowlands, of almost idyllic beauty. Beginning as noisy little brooks tumbling over black rocks in a V-shaped ravine near the summit of the hills, they rapidly gather volume and slide along in a polished channel of trap, tumbling every now and then as sheets of white spray over vertical ledges forming here and there deep green pools, and then after they have passed down among the foot-hills, rippling in broad shallow reaches over sunlit beds of bright yellow gravel. ”

“ Nicaragua presents yet another unique physical feature. Lying between the elevated mountain masses of Costa Rica on the south and Honduras on the north, the average elevation of its own mountain backbone hardly one thousand feet, it is the natural thoroughfare of the beneficent northeast Trades. These winds sweep in from the Caribbean across the Atlantic slopes, break the surface of the lakes into sparkling waves, and then disappear over the Pacific, aerating, cooling and purifying the country, destroying the germs of disease and making Nicaragua the healthiest region in Central America. ”

“ But whatever the form of the tree trunks may be, the shallow soil upon the hills and the marshy soil in the lowlands, has taught them that there is greater safety and stability in a broad foundation than in a deeply penetrating one, and so almost without exception the tree roots spread out widely, on, or near, the surface. Beneath the protecting shelter of these patriarchs, as completely protected from scorching sun and rushing wind as if in a conservatory, grow innumerable varieties of palms, young trees destined some day to be giants themselves, and others which never attain great size. ”

“ The topography of the country has to be laboriously felt out, much as a blind man familiarizes himself with his surroundings. In doing this work the indispensable instrument, without which the transit, the level, and indeed the engineer himself is of no use, is the national weapon of Nicaragua, the machéte, a short, heavy sword. ”

“ The general character of the irrigation works of the State varies very much with the varying conditions under which it is practiced. In the San Joaquin valley, King's river, for instance, comes out of the mountains nearly on a level with the surface of the plain, cutting down not more than a few feet below its banks; and hence but little labor is required to divert its waters out upon the lands to be irrigated; but farther north, the Tuolumne, as another example, comes out of the mountains in a deep cañon, and the foot-hills extend far down the plain on each side. ”

“ This stream, with its several tributaries, drains a large swampy valley sprinkled with irregular hummocks and hills. For several miles from the San Juan it is a sluggish, muddy stream between steep slippery banks; higher up, flowing over a gravelly and then a rocky bed, it finally disappears in steep ravines filled with huge bowlders. The main San Francisco comes from the northwest, but a large tributary has its source to the eastward in a range of hills which separates the San Francisco basin from the immediate Caribbean water-shed. ”

“ The great interior valley of California will not support, without irrigation, an average of more than 15 to 20 people per square mile. Irrigate it and it will support as many as any other portion of the country—reasonably it will support 200 to the square mile. I have no doubt that the population will run up to ten or twelve millions in that one valley, and there are regions over this country from the Mississippi to the Pacific, millions of acres, that can be made to support a teeming population by the artificial application of water. ”

“ If the area of soft rocks be bounded by a considerable mass of very hard rocks, it is conceivable that a second phase of age, a base level, might creep over the valley while yet the summits of the first old age remained unattacked, and should perchance revival succeed revival the record of the last uplift might be read in sharp cut channels of the great rivers, while the forms of each preceding phase led like steps to the still surviving domes of that earliest old age. ”

“ The remaining vines break with the resistless strain, and the old giant gathering velocity as he falls and dragging with him everything in his reach, crashes to the earth with a roar which elicits cries of terror from bird and beast, and goes booming through the quivering forest like the report of a heavy cannon. ”

“ In a district, where water is applied by the broad method, I saw in 1877 enough water, by actual measurement of flow, put on 20 acres of land to cover it 18 feet deep, in one season, could it all have been retained upon it. It simply soaked into the ground, or flowed out under the great plain. Taking cross sections of this country, north and south and east and west, I found that where the depth to soil water had, before irrigation, been about 80 feet, it was then 20, 30, 40 or 60 and more feet down to it. ”

“ So that the rule in California, which is the effect of irrigation, is to divide land holdings into small tracts, and in this respect, also, irrigation is a blessing to the country. It enables large owners to cut up their lands and sell out to the many. Land values have advanced from $1.25 in this great valley to $50, $150 and even $250 per acre, simply by attaching to the land the right to take or use water, paying in addition an annual rental: in the southern portion of the State, they have advanced from $5 and $10 to $500 and even $1000 an acre, where the land has the right to water ”

“ If however an isolated hill of several hundred feet in height be found, its steep sides culminating in a sharp peak, one day's work by three or four good axmen, in cutting neighboring trees, will prepare the way for a study of the general relief and topography of the adjacent country. If after these preliminaries have been completed the engineer imagines that he has only to climb the tree and sketch what he sees, to obtain reliable knowledge of the country, he is doomed to serious surprises in the future. ”

“ For a moment the countless nocturnal noises of the great forest, enlivened perhaps by the scream of a tiger, or the deep, muffled roar of a puma, fall upon drowsy ears, then follows the sleep that always accompanies hard work and good health, till the bull-voiced howling monkeys set the forest echoing with their announcement of the breaking dawn. ”

“ Saddled as it is with a debt of nearly four hundred millions of dollars, it would be difficult to convince any one that it could ever prove to be a paying investment. Nor do I think that any American or English corporation can be organized that could obtain such concessions from Lesseps as would make the scheme an inviting field for capitalists, and thus my opinion is that the "Compagnie Universelle du Canal Interocéanique de Panama" has irretrievably collapsed, and that the canal will remain, as it is now, the most gigantic failure of the age. ”

“ This is particularly the case on the Pacific Coast—the field with which I am specially acquainted. I apprehend that although many gentlemen present have a far-reaching and definite appreciation of the subject at large, many others do not appreciate the value and importance of irrigation. In the arid parts of California (for we do not admit that California is as a whole arid) it is a vital matter. There it is a question of life, for the people. Not more than one-sixth of the tillable area in the State can sustain a really dense population, without irrigation ”

“ When a land surface rises from the ocean the stream systems which at once develope, are set the task of carrying back to the sea all that stands above it. According to the amount of this alloted work that streams have accomplished, they may be said to be young, mature or aged; and if, their task once nearly completed, another uplift raise more material to be carried off, they may be said to be revived. These terms apply equally to the land-surface, and each period of development is characterized by certain topographic forms. ”

“ In old age the gently rolling surface is traversed by many quiet flowing streams; the heights are gone, the profiles are rounded, the contours subdued. In the first emergence from the sea the courses of streams are determined by accidents of slope, it may be by folding of the rising surface into troughs and arches. During maturity the process of retrogressive erosion, by which a stream cuts back into the watershed of a less powerful opponent stream, adjusts the channels to the outcrops of soft rocks and leaves the harder strata as eminences. ”

“ The entire foliage of these trees is at the top and their great trunks reaching up for a hundred feet or more without a branch offer a wonderful variety of studies in types of column. Some rise straight and smooth, and true, others send out thin deep buttresses, and others look like the muscle-knotted fore-arm of a Titan, with gnarled fingers griping the ground in their wide grasp. ”

“ The geologist tells us that the earliest uplift of the Appalachian region after the close of the Carboniferous period was preceded or accompanied by a folding of the earth's crust into mountainous wave-like arches; upon these erosion at once began and these formed our first mountains. Where they were highest the geologist may infer from geologic structure and the outcrops of the oldest rocks; but the facts for that inference are not yet all gathered and it can only be said that the heights of that ancient topography were probably as great over the valley of Tennessee as over the Unaka chain. ”

“ Taking the streams from San Joaquin river north, that come out of the Sierra Nevada, up to the northern end of the valley where the Sacramento river enters it, every important stream comes into the valley within a deep gorge. The beds of several of the northern streams are so filled up with mining debris that diversion from them would be comparatively easy, but in their natural state there is not an important stream north of the San Joaquin which could be utilized for irrigation by any other means than through the agency of capital in large amount. ”

“ On the Pacific side the rivers have a much longer distance to flow before reaching the sea, and the territory bordering on the ocean is low and swampy. The tidal limit of the Tuyra River is nearly fifty miles from its mouth, and on this river and many of its tributaries one can travel many miles inland before ground sufficiently solid to land upon can be found. The vegetation within this low lying area is thick and closely matted together, and this fact taken in connection with the swampy character of the ground, makes travel on foot through any portion of it exceedingly difficult. ”

“ Lesseps is a diplomat and financier, but in no sense a great engineer. In the construction of the Suez canal, the questions of diplomacy and finance were the most difficult to settle, while the engineering problems were comparatively simple. In Panama the opposite conditions prevailed. Concessions were freely given him by the Colombian government and money freely offered him by the French people, but he never grasped or comprehended the difficulties that nature had planted in his way, and these only seemed to occur to him when they blocked progress in a certain direction. ”

“ The engineer must either climb down the steep banks, for the streams burrow deep in the stiff clay of these valleys, ford the stream and climb the opposite bank, or he must fall a tree from bank to bank and cross on its slippery trunk twenty or twenty-five feet above the water. ”

“ On level, undulating and moderately broken ground, the tops of the trees, though they may be one hundred and fifty feet from the ground, are level as the top of a hedge. Even an isolated hill if it be rounded in shape presents hardly better facilities, the trees at the base and on the sides, in their effort to reach the sunlight grow taller than those on the summit, and there is no one tree that commands all the others. ”

“ In Tulare valley, the duty of water will increase as the ground fills up.
In Fresno, a county which was regarded as phenomenally healthy, malarial fevers now are found, while in San Bernardino, at Riverside, such a thing is rarely known. Coming to Bakersfield, a region which before irrigation commenced was famed for its malarial fevers—known as unhealthful throughout all the State—where soil water was originally within 15 feet of the surface, irrigation has almost entirely rid it of the malarial effects. Chills and fever are rare now, where before irrigation they were prevalent. ”

“ The climber is almost certain to disturb some venomous insect which revenges itself by a savage sting which has to be endured; or he may rend clothes and skin also, on some thorny vine, or another, crushed by his efforts, may exude a juice which will leave him tattooed for days; then, though there may not be a mosquito or fly at the base of the tree, the top will be infested with myriads of minute black flies, which cover hands and face, and with extremely annoying results. ”

“ It follows, then, that there is no place in Europe where it is so much needed as over a large part of California. Another reason why the necessity is felt in our Pacific Coast State, is found in the character of our soils; and not alone the surface soils, but the base of the soil—the deep subsoils. We have soils exceptionally deep; soils which extend below the surface to 50 feet, underlaid by loose sand and open gravels, so that the rainfall of winter is lost in them. The annual rain seldom runs from the surface. ”

“ In order that the process of degradation may go on it is essential that a land mass be somewhat raised above the sea, and, since the process is a never-ceasing one while streams have sufficient fall to carry sediment, it follows that, given time enough, every land surface must be degraded to a sloping plain, to what has been called a base level. ”

“ The innumerable large fallen trees which obstruct the streams and over or through which the canoe must be hauled bodily, the almost inevitable capsizing of the canoe, the monotonous red clay banks on either side and the frequent necessity of lying down at night in a bed of mud into which the droves of wild pigs which inhabit these valleys have trampled the clayey soil, are among the disagreeable incidents. ”

“ King's river presents in the maximum flow of the season about twice to three times as much as Kern river; the Tuolumne river about as much as King's. As we go farther north, the Sacramento river presents more than three times as much as the Tuolumne, so that in the northern part of the great valley, where the rainfall on the valley itself is greatest, and, consequently, the necessity for irrigation is least, the irrigation supply increases; and conversely, the greatest area of irrigation in the valley and the greatest necessity for it, is, in general, where the water supply is least. ”